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  • 02-10-2022 2:54pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,960 ✭✭✭✭


    The small, fill in, wall isn't attached to the ground or side wall.

    Can anyone think of a way to secure it ? I can mount a gate on the house wall but need the small wall as a latching point.


    Apologies. I have no idea why they were in portrait but Boards turned them to landscape :)



Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,960 ✭✭✭✭Discodog


    Yes. I don't know how it has stood so long & someone hung a gate off it ! All I could think of was a right angle bracket, bent to fit as neither side are actually right angles.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,370 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    Based on the "capping" being bricks on edge it seems like just a wall.


    OP, is it just sitting on the ground, without any foundation?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,960 ✭✭✭✭Discodog


    It's sitting on the concrete path. It's just a wall. I plan to hang a gate onto the house wall & have this wall as the closure.

    I was thinking of drilling width ways though the end of the wall & using a threaded tie bar & metal anchor to secure it to the side wall. But as the angle isn't 90 degrees, it would pull the wall out of line.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,092 ✭✭✭Gen.Zhukov


    I was bored 🙂

    Not sure what I'd do op. Probably try to tie them in with s/s L brackets while trying to make those brackets look as unobtrusive as possible

    Shoddy workmanship Ted...sure you could talk them into coming down :pac:

    Tbh, they look solid enough



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,960 ✭✭✭✭Discodog


    The small wall, for want of a better word, is well made but not attached to anything. I am amazed that it's never been pushed over. One option would be to remove it & make a wooden infill.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,960 ✭✭✭✭Discodog


    There aren't. You can pull it forward. Yes but that would require a bricklayer builder & very hard to find for such a small job. Plus it would mean dismantling part of the neighbour's wall to key into.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,479 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    Cheap pack of 1000mm SDS drills https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-125628-Plus-Masonry-Drill/ but same ones cheaper when Lidl have them. Drill all the way through and into the pillar as far as you can. Remove clean hole then cover the drill bit and fill the end of the hole with epoxy then put the drill back in (hammer in or use reverse on the SDS drill if it has it). Leave the drill to set in place then cut off the excess, do the same with the other drills in the set.

    Off the wall thinking ;-)

    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,370 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    Ah, you didn't mention that this was the neighbours wall, now we know why its free standing.

    I don't see how you can drill through it into the neighbours wall, but perhaps I am misunderstanding the situation, its hard to tell from two close-in pics.

    It probably really should be a pillar/pier, but its short enough that you would get away without it.

    If its truly just sitting on the ground I think I'd "roll" it over onto some sort of temp timber support and create a foundation for it, then roll it back up onto its new foundation with a bed of mortar to tie them together.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 225 ✭✭2018na




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,370 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    More like "wall fall off thinking" I reckon! :)

    I'd check the shear strength of those before trying that, they arent designed to resist any shear force at all, only compression.

    OP if there is no issue drilling into your neighbours wall (I cant see how there isnt!) then just use epoxy and rebar after drilling the holes.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,960 ✭✭✭✭Discodog



    It looks like all the houses were constructed at the same time as part of a development. I think that the neighbour would ok with a couple of fixing holes but one concern would be the bricks splitting as I would be drilling into the, two brick wide, end & for a couple of feet. I have an sds & long enough bits. Threaded rod would allow me to pull the two walls together but it would need some packing to get around the not 90 degree angle.

    One concern would be that whilst the gate will be mounted on the house, the small wall could be stressed if the gate is slammed or blown shut. It would be good to anchor the bottom too for extra strength.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,370 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    I'd be far more worried about the wall itself blowing over than I would the gate slamming against it tbh.

    A slamming gate isnt going to exert any real force against the wall.


    If you are that worried about it, turn it into a pier/pillar and pour a footing for the new section.

    Tie the brickwork together properly and its not going anywhere.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,960 ✭✭✭✭Discodog


    Again it requires a builder/bricklayer. Very hard to get for small jobs.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,370 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    Then I would do as someone else already advised.

    Take the wall down and put in a fence panel with some concrete posts at either end.

    You are still going to have to do work (demo the wall and kango out some holes to cement in the posts) but its all DIY level stuff.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,183 ✭✭✭standardg60


    Drill through the bottom of the pillar into the concrete path at an angle on the three exposed sides and hammer in a few long express nails would be my solution.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,220 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    Long holes, threaded rods, chemical anchor.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,370 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    On the inside picture there appears to be quite a gap between this wall and the neighbours wall, I think I'd just shutter that up and pour in some concrete.

    You can seal the smaller exterior gap with something like this first




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,479 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    If anyone's interested that weighs around 400 kilos. 100 bricks at 4kg each which is on the high side to allow for mortar. The center is probably just filled with cement but the result will be the same 400 kilos give or take. Probably an over estimate but there are other variables like how wet the bricks are.

    I won't go into to many details as I'm sure I'll get rubbished but I have moved half a tonne on my own with various hoists and winches. Far from impossible to tip that and prop it safely so you could get mortar under one side then do the same on the other. Probably best to start it off with a plastic tree felling wedge then use a 4 ft crow bar. Tip so there is a 15cm gap on one side prop it safely, clean out then drop it back, do the same from the other side so its ready for mortar. Get about 25mm thickness of mortar in as far a possible with one side lifted up then let that side down so its on a couple of 20mm strips of wood. Then lift and do the same on the other side. The 20mm strips should stop the mortar being pushed out with the other side is lifted.

    If its on tarmac forget I doubt it will stick but if its a concrete drive then is should "stick" down.

    Edit> I'd love to know how many of you go and count the bricks in the photo (12 on edge on the top and 11 layers of 8 (or less) on the flat). Some might then look up the weight of a brick ;-)

    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,071 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    76 bricks, no? But the big question is: frogs or no frogs and were they filled or not? 🤣



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,370 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    pft, I suggested effectively that approach days ago! :)

    It seems the OP wants a professional job without hiring a professional, but a good DIY bodge done well never hurt anyone imo.

    I'd be very confident that just filling the gap (after suitable cleaning of the existing brickwork would do the job, if the mini wall is that loose then rotating it away from the neighbours wall enough to clean both ends shouldnt be that big an issue.

    Nothing a few come alongs, bars and maybe even a trolley jack couldnt solve :)



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,688 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    Stainless steel post in inside corner with some plate with bolt holes running down inside of small wall and all bolted to ground.

    2nd steel post at free edge to act as gate post and wall support.

    If the coursing lined up, you could clean out joint and use some form of reinforcement hidden in joint but joints dont appear to align. And even then wouldn't do alot for the free end of the wall and ifs neighbours wall, tying together is not an option so back to the steel posts.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,960 ✭✭✭✭Discodog


    A good bodge will do fine. This isn't my house but I will be doing the work so I am trying to make it easy :)



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