Fitting Kitchen Cabinets Advice

OREGATO

Hi folks,

Looking for some advice if someone can help.

We are fitting an IKEA kitchen to a new extension and wanted some advice on the correct fittings to use.

The walls where the cabinets will be hung on consist of a concrete block, a 1x2 wooden lath and then plasterboard on top.

Picture of the wall (before the plasterboard and plaster work) is below.

Can someone advise what the right fittings would be?

We will be drilling into some of the wooden laths but for some of the cabinets, we may be going through the plaster board, into the hallow space between the plasterboard and the concrete and then into the concrete.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

O

chooseusername

Ikea do this rail for just this job;

https://www.ikea.com/ie/en/p/metod-suspension-rail-galvanised-60205664/

OREGATO

Thanks, yes, that's the rail we're using but we want to figure out what fixings we should use to hang that rail into the wall.

the_pen_turner

those battens dont look very well atached , looks like steel nails . i would drill through the batton locatons and use good plugs and screws and use corefix fixings in between

hargo

if the walls haven't been fitted with the plaster board yet Id fit more lats going across at the height of the fittings and screw straight into them.

C. Eastwood

Where I live in Ireland, drylining with slab on a 2 x 1, went out of fashion about 35 years ago.

The IKEA Cabinet Hanging Wall Mounting Rail mentioned above is 1 mm thick, slab and hardwall approx 15 mm thick, battens approx 22 mm, and assuming the conc blockwork is 100 mm thick.

Filled wall mounted Kitchen Cabinets can cause serious injuries if they fall down.

I recommend using Concrete Screws - see photo-

9A422B46-3A13-4E9F-9F0F-0B15B7EF3E51.jpeg

There are no plugs used with these screws. They will thread directly in to the hole drilled in the concrete blocks.

It is very important to have the correct size masonry drill bit.

Only fit the screws at the batten locations.

I would use 110 mm long Concrete Screws, to secure the IKEA metal rails to the concrete blockwork.

OREGATO

Thanks for the replies.

@C. Eastwood , we ended up fitting them with the concrete screws you mentioned and used 112mm length screws. We did a mix of through the 2x1 and through the plasterboard into the concrete without going through the wood.

Out of curiousity, what is the norm these days instead of drylining with slab on a 2x1? I know very little about the building trade so just curious what is the norm and why the method that's done in our extension is outdated.

C. Eastwood

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119562126#Comment_119562126

Thanks for your reply OREGATO.

A cavity constructed concrete block wall with no insulation would have a U value of approx 2.1W/m2/degreeC/hr. Adding battens and a slab would reduce this to approx 1.9W/m2/degC/hr.

Renovating a house should give a U value of approx 0.35W/m2/degC/hr.

I do not specify battens on the internal face of the wall - I prefer insulated slabs fixed mechanically to the wall with metal Mushrooms.

see photos-

3F07A311-AD0E-4A91-9BFC-D58C65F7BE4C.jpeg

D94D1058-0214-4F7F-B516-E5C5FA4501F8.jpeg

8A53F005-7DCC-4D82-AA2B-553C761D6675.jpeg

The fixing of an insulated slab on the inner face of the wall allows less insulation to be fitted in the cavity. It also reduces the risk of cold bridges, and reduces thermal bridging.

It also allows for the fitting of services behind the slab.

OREGATO

Thanks C. Eastwood. That's for the insights, in terms of insulation, does it make any difference that the constructed wall actually is made up of two cavity walls with insulation between them, so in my photo, that's the inner wall but then there's insulation and then external wall on the outside.