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Is this ball hitch gone?

  • 28-04-2022 4:54pm
    Registered Users Posts: 300 ✭✭ irishguy19772

    Any advice would be great.

    Have only got the trailer second hand.

    Just want to err on the side of caution


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,084 ✭✭✭ funkey_monkey

    I would say yes as the snib highlighted in the photo is at the bottom of the slot indicating full wear, but only basing it on this (0:00 - 1:30). Our trailers have wear indicators so I might be wrong, but others can confirm or call me out:

    Just to add that video explains the types of Bradley hitches and should you want to replace yours is a 3.5T hitch as the vertical bolt is at the rear and horizontal bolt at the front.

    Also, not sure how old your towball is, but if you have a pair of calipers you should check it too.

  • Registered Users Posts: 1,320 ✭✭✭ epfff

    I always recon with ball hitch if you asked it is.

    They not expensive.

    A twin wheel will run a fair distance if hops off

  • Registered Users Posts: 7,084 ✭✭✭ funkey_monkey

    @irishguy19772 - not wanting to add more expense on you, but if the brakes are working then maybe get a break away cable instead of the chain.

  • Registered Users Posts: 300 ✭✭ irishguy19772

    Sadly the brakes are not working. Going to get them done. Got a quote of 600 euro.

    It is a 3.5 ton hitch, checked there and it is correct. Will go buy one tomorrow.

    Looks fairly straightforward to put on.

    Thanks for advice

  • Registered Users Posts: 1,320 ✭✭✭ epfff

    You can replace coupling if damper and rest is OK.

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  • Registered Users Posts: 300 ✭✭ irishguy19772

    Thanks for all advice. Prices the coupling and around 125 euro for it.

    Last question, is the way the hitch turns round on the first picture okay?

    Is that supposed to happen?

  • Registered Users Posts: 1,263 ✭✭✭ JustJoe7240

  • Registered Users Posts: 12,553 ✭✭✭✭ AckwelFoley

    Long gone

    Also, remove the connection you have in the towball, looks like a chian. They're not legal in a 3500kg trailer and dangerous in event of decoupling. You need a breakaway cable and functional brakes. Going by the series of handbrake on the trailer I expect its 30+ years old.

  • Registered Users Posts: 300 ✭✭ irishguy19772

    Hey. Will get brakes done as a priority.

    In the meantime is the chain around the hitch dangerous in case of decoupling? That is what is on it

    Would have assumed it would stop the trailer from running away but would probably cause the jeep to turn over or something would it?

  • Registered Users Posts: 7,084 ✭✭✭ funkey_monkey

    Presume the body is in good condition when you are putting the money into it. You'll have a trailer that will do you a long time when you get this work done. Worthwhile investment. It'll be easier on the jeep too. A loaded trailer with no brakes pushing the jeep on will be hard on them.

    Good luck with it.

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  • Registered Users Posts: 7,084 ✭✭✭ funkey_monkey

    Breakaway cables are cheap - less than a tenner. Not sure if your handbrake supports one though. Maybe price a new towing head assembly encompassing it all if it doesn't support the cable?

    Quick Google shows them at around €330. Maybe phone a dealer and see what they have to suit? If you need a damper along with the hitch unit itself then it might not be more of a push for the full assembly?

    The chain will cause a decoupled trailer hitch to at best drive in through the back of your jeep possibly writing it off and at worst cause overturn and possibly collide with another road user.

    Sorry - it's easy for us to spend someone else's money, but at least think about it. Maybe get your brake man to give you an opinion, but you definitely need a new hitch regardless.

  • Registered Users Posts: 12,553 ✭✭✭✭ AckwelFoley

    The chain can't be there full stop. But in addition, the trailer can't be on the road without functioning brakes.

    @funky_monkey has given you solid advice. I would personally advise you replace the complete overrun. I don't like how the hitchbhead is sitting on the drawtube, hard to tell from here but it looks like there could be wear on the drawtube bolts holes..then that would be a new drawtube and another 100 euro. I've little doubt there's more to be done with the overrun than just the head, and if downbthe line you buy the head and fit it and find the handbrake is not working or broken, you're cornered as that series handbrake has not been made for about 20 years

    Auto and tailer spares in Omagh re good value. What you're looking for is a Bradley HU12

    With these things on old trailers start at the back and work your way to the front, so fix brakes, cables, and then overrun/hitch

    I suspect its and old ifor Williams with ALKO brakes you have. Black dust caps?

    If it is have a real good look at the brake drums make sure there is no wear on the bearings or more importantly the bearing seating of the brake drums. If you lose one of those old drums they're extremely expensive

    Post edited by AckwelFoley on

  • Registered Users Posts: 7,084 ✭✭✭ funkey_monkey

    Good shout there with Auto and Trailer Spares - £267 inc. VAT.

  • Registered Users Posts: 300 ✭✭ irishguy19772

    Great. Thanks. Looks good. Is it hard to replace the coupling if I get one?

  • Registered Users Posts: 12,553 ✭✭✭✭ AckwelFoley

    Difficulty is relative, depends on experience. If you're getting the brakes done, you can have this done at the same time. It won't tale more than an hour.

    Behind the handbrake there is a spring unit called the energy store. There is a spring that's preloaded and secured with a pin, and taped over with insulation tape. This pin can't be removed until the brake bar is fitted and tensioned. If you do, the handbrake can fly up and jaws have been known to be broken if one was unfortunate enough.

    Don't fit a new overrun/hitch without having the brakes checked and working, because failure to have proper working brakes can damage the gas damper inside the overrun and will cost to replace.