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Passat 2008 tools missing query

  • 27-03-2022 8:48pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 171 ✭✭


    Hi, I recently bought a second hand VW Passat 2008 highline. Turns out it doesn’t have all the tools I might need to change the wheel. In the car manual on the tools page, see image below, I seem to be missing numbers 3, 5 and 6.

    I have also attached an image of the car wheels. When I look up the chapter on changing the wheel in the car manual, the illustrations show a completely different wheel, it shows a few different wheel types and the ones I have don’t appear. So before trying to find replacement tools, would anyone be able to confirm that I need these missing tools for this wheel type. I understand that 3 is important for the bolts but I don’t really understand what 5 and 6 do.

    I have tried to search for a video of this wheel type being changed but can’t find anything, if anyone knows of one please send me a link and if you know too where would be a good place to purchase the replacement tools that would be great too.

    Thanks so much for any help.




Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,241 ✭✭✭BlakeS94


    You can just buy a pick set, simple socket set and a wheel nut wrench from halfords, will probably be better quality than what came with the car, should cost around €50

    Tool #5 is for removing the wheel nuts once they've been broken loose by tool #3.

    Tool #6 is for pulling that centre bit of the wheel with the holes around it, off, it's only a cap, and some VWs have caps over the wheel nuts that need to be taken off before removing the actual wheel nut.

    Tool #1 is essential if you have locking wheel nuts, it's just a socket with a pattern in it that slots into the same pattern on one of the wheel nuts on each wheel.



  • Posts: 468 ✭✭ [Deleted User]


    That halfords wheel nut wrench works only if tyre shop apply the correct torque. Guess what, they never to do it. So, better buy breaker bar and the right size wheel bolt/nut socket. That kind of tyre shop madness does not stop before somebody be killed by over torqued whee bolts/nuts.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 171 ✭✭Captain Kidd


    Thanks, apologies but what’s a breaker bar? Is number 3 above a breaker bar? Any idea where to buy these? Thanks again



  • Posts: 468 ✭✭ [Deleted User]


    1/2" and right size socket, 17, 19, 21 or what ever, length what ever. Or just set the right torque after ever tyreshop visit. The original manufacturer or halfords wheel bolt/nut tools is completely ok if torques is right. Lidl, aldi torque wrenches is more than good for that purpose. Do not need to remove wheel or lift the car. Just loose one by one the bolt/nut and apply the the right torque. Typically it is around 110-120Nm for cars. For single use, you can borrow it.

    I seen several times more than insane torque applied by tyreshop impact tools. This is not normal to see 400-500Nm torque. I am 100% sure, one day somebody be killed thanks for that stupid thing. And guess what? Somebody goes to jail. I am not surprised if the law in the future force them to store digitally every torque measures, exactly like on aviation industry does it every single day. I do not like that kind of possible future regulations, but it goes that way if tyre shops does not stop their impact tool love. Impact tools is not bad if they understand how to use these, what they obviously does not know. There is technology available (TORSION BARS) what could make their life little easier but they do not care. Why? Because company does not owe any hand tool, this is workers property. Sure, even torsion bars need re-calibration over the time and can not use for accurate torque applications. But it is very good tool to use before torque wrench.

    I know, the moneys makes now big circus....enjoy their stupidity and be safe



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,742 ✭✭✭lalababa


    Go to e.g. halfords or any motor factors/garage supply store and tell them your plight. If you don't have locking nuts you're alright , if you do they will advise.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,742 ✭✭✭lalababa


    A breaker bar is just a longer version of number 3...a wheel brace/tyre iron. Gives you more leverage...Good for women especially...but I find anything that you can stand on comfortably works for me especially if the brace is a short one...then again I'm 16 st. And usually have to almost jump up and down on them!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 171 ✭✭Captain Kidd


    Thanks everybody, really appreciate all the help with this. Not sure what you mean by locking nuts, is that No.1 above, yes I have that. Though if it fits or not I don’t know, need to get that cap off first to see the bolts. Thanks again



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,241 ✭✭✭BlakeS94


    The locking wheel nut will fit, there would be no reason for someone to remove it from the car and not replace it.

    As I said in my first post, the locking wheel nut is a security method to prevent somebody stealing your wheels, one nut on each wheel will have a specific design which corresponds to the locking wheel nut, which is just like a socket with the pattern of the locking nut on the car, if equipped, some cars don't have them. But they just work like a normal socket. The wheel won't come off without removing the locking nut.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 171 ✭✭Captain Kidd


    Thanks BlakeS94, i guess the reason I query whether the bolt fitting or not is because I noticed with the actual car key, that the key itself that slides out of the actual key box. (See picture) doesn’t actually unlock the door when used manually. I’m guessing this key was reprogrammed and this actual physical key is for another car? Would that be a right guess, is there anyway to have this physical key actually work with the door? I think I’m worried of the key was for a different car then perhaps the bolt too. Thanks again for all the help.




  • Posts: 468 ✭✭ [Deleted User]


    That plastic key is basically designed 1-2 time use only. You must ask from previous owner(s) what they did. I seen once how car owner was used that plastic key up to 1 year...the key was like a fork. Some how it works



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 171 ✭✭Captain Kidd


    Wow, that key is designed to only be used once or twice? I only have the one key for the car, So I’m a little worried if the batteries go on this thing that I won’t be able to get into the car or do these batteries last forever?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 171 ✭✭Captain Kidd


    I bought the car from a very small dealer, by dealer I mean he had a yard with cars for sale in it, He’s not being very responsive to any questions so I don’t think he’s going to know anything about the key.



  • Posts: 468 ✭✭ [Deleted User]


    If you planning to use the mechanical door lock every day, please think about metal mechanical key. They do not make that type, what fits inside the remote. Just HU66 mechanical key and done



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 171 ✭✭Captain Kidd


    Thanks, the remote key works, any idea what the battery is like in those things, do you get a warning if it’s low? I’d actually like to get a spare key though I’m not sure if you can use an actual key to start this car, only to open the door. The remote, ignition type keys are they difficult or expensive to get copies?



  • Posts: 468 ✭✭ [Deleted User]


    There is regular CR2032, buy from any shop. This full key cost around 80-100 programmed to your car.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 171 ✭✭Captain Kidd


    Thanks, I read in the manual that the little red light that lights up on the key when I unlock the car stops lighting up when the battery needs replacing, but I would like to get a spare, would it be best to buy the key online and then a dealer can reprogram or buy through a dealer? Thanks again



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