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Noise from newly fitted radiator TRV's

  • 28-11-2021 05:10PM
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,269 ✭✭✭


    We got our old and decrepit gas boiler replaced this year with a newer 24kw condensing boiler. As part of the upgrade, we also got all the rads in the house fitted with TRV valves (they used to be just standard old non-TRV). It's all good except for the noise from the new valves. We often hear loud hissing noise coming from them. They sound like a kettle boiling (though not as loud) or in some rare cases, they whistle (like an old fashioned whistle kettle). They also can make whooshing noises which can be very irritating to listen to! The volume is not excessive, but they can be hear from a different room with the door closed.

    The noise isn't constant and when they start doing this, the noise can last up to 20 or even 30 minutes. I suspect it happens when the valves are registering that the temperature is coming close to when they should close the rad. When they do start to hiss or whoosh, they can be silenced by turning the knob up or down a notch. And they never make noise when set to the max (5) settings, as I guess they are always "open" at that setting.

    I have been chasing the plumber who fit them for months; and even though he has said he is following up with the manufacturer, I think he's fobbing me off. He also spoke about changing the pressure setting on the boiler to a lower setting, but he explained that can cause other issues, so we decided against that.

    Is this kind of noise normal with TRV's? I've checked friend's and family's houses and none of their TRV's make any noises like this. Can anything be done to fix it? It's incredibly irritating to listen to this hissing around the house!

    Many thanks.



Comments

  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,478 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    Did he fit a new modulating circulating pump? What's it set to?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,766 ✭✭✭Phil.x


    Most of mine do this when operating at their switch off temp.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,269 ✭✭✭3rdDegree


    Not sure, is a new pump normally fitted when the boiler is replaced? But I would say that from I can tell, everything related to the boiler was replaced. I thought he did mention setting a pump value to automatic. He said that is the best setting as it can handle turning on and off rads better. He said if it is set to manual, there can be issues.

    Many thanks.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,661 ✭✭✭John.G



    Is your system a sealed system or open vent with a small tank in the attic.

    If the pump is external to the boiler post its exact model and setting mode.

    The TRVs should not be making noises like that. Can you post the make, there are two types, uni directional with one arrow on the valve body and bi directional with two arrows on the pump body, see which type you have.

    I have 10 rads, 8 with TRVs and have never experienced any noise from them even when I had the old traditional fixed speed pump set to speed 2 or ~ 3.5M.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,269 ✭✭✭3rdDegree


    I thought it was the system with the small tank in the attic, but I also thought it was sealed. A couple of times a year, when the water pressure goes down a bit, I have to open a small tap in the attic to let more water into the system, to effectively top it up.

    I don't think the pump is external to the boiler. The boiler is a Worcester Greenstar 24i System ErP. The plumber did tell me that he had set the pump to fully automatic. He said that means the pump should adjust itself based on the number of rads that are open. Not sure if that answers the question.

    The TRV's are Pegler. There are two arrows on them.

    Many thanks.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,661 ✭✭✭John.G


    I have seen a few reports of Pegler Terrier TRVs being noisy. The problem is now that they will suggest you fit all sorts of by by passes etc, anything but that they may have a problem with their product.

    I changed mine over the past two years as the plastic on the actuator heads were getting a bit brittle after 12 years, I am using EPH type CTRV15 which comes without the lockshield valve for the other end of the rad which is not needed but even if you have to buy one complete with the lockshield Type EMTRV15, its probably still around €16.

    You might consider purchasing just one of these and suggesting that your plumber fit it FOC in place of your noisiest one, if noise disappears at this location then that proves the Peglar's are the culprit, if not, you agree to pay your plumber for installing it and look somewhere else for the solution. Otherwise, I feel you will be sent from pillar to post.

    The pump setting on Auto should be OK IMO.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,269 ✭✭✭3rdDegree


    Many thanks John. Your advice has been really helpful.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,661 ✭✭✭John.G


    I was looking at your pump curves just now and IF the curve for the Auto (0) setting is as shown then its working opposite to what PP (proportional pressure) should, it shows it increasing the pump head with reducing flow which is the exact opposite to what it should be doing, so as the TRVs close in then the head will rise and can certainly cause a racket as its a 7M pump. EDIT: I think they probably arn't showing the PP curve and that 0 curve is the full speed curve but no harm in getting your plumber to set it to setting 4 which is a constant head of 3M and see what happens. John




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