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New Door Frame Issue

  • 23-11-2021 7:32pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 227 ✭✭


    Hello,

    Had a new front door installed recently.

    Today the area under the door (marked in pic) felt cold, laser thermometer on that spot read 12 degrees.

    Externally, the majority of the frame extends out beyond the where the old door was positioned.

    Could this external overhang be causing the internal cold issues? Is this a shoddy or a standard installation approach?

    Thanks




Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 39,902 ✭✭✭✭Mellor


    It looks likes the threshold is exposed on the outside and projecting internally. It's a cold bridge, nothing to do with the overhang, which is a good way to deal with water btw. The issues isn't the door, the issue is an older house not to current standard.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,074 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    I'm not up on the "standards" per-sey, but would the correct approach here not to have cut back the internal reveals and the wooden floor and fit the door into the ope better than leaving it floating, given that the OP has gone to the expense of installing triple-glazing? While this would not have removed the cold-bridge along the threshold (only a thermally-broken threshold would have done that) it would have allowed for a better finish externally.

    OP, what type of door was removed? Was it a standard wooden-framed hall-door? Possibly 5cm frame-depth?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 227 ✭✭seandugg


    Yes, standard wooden hall door from the 90s was removed.

    Was in touch with the installers who said their workers should have not left the job like this. It should have been built up with brick underneath and plastered so there is no overhang.

    Is there a better approach than what the supplier is suggesting, seems like this may still end with a cold bridge?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,074 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Well, back to Mellor's point - this is a retro-fit, making that all work within the time & cost budget may have produced an initial quote which made the installers look like accountants at an arts ball.

    Can the cold-bridge be eliminated with the current design? Probably not easily as the whole junction of the porch step into the lower blocks of the internal leaf is a thermal-bridge in itself. As a result even insulating behind the bricks or even installing a composite panel/PIR under the threshold mightn't pay off massively. Plus as Mellor said, doing something below the threshold risks affecting the water run-off. Any modification by the installer has to be in consideration of this (ie, block-face remains behind any drip channel).



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