Depth of Drylining

Hi all

Is there a standard depth, or a range of standard depths to drylining?

I'm getting a new kitchen fitted, but I'm getting the wall drylined before the kitchen is put in. So I would have thought the kitchen people taking the measurements would need to take future drylining into consideration.

Also is there any recommendations for depth of drylining? Its an external wall 1970's with no space to insulate between blocks so its a cold wall.

Thanks.

Purgative

I'd suggest they measure after its been drylined.

Otherwise you're just asking for pain. Are you intending adding internal insulation?

Thanks Purgative. Indeed, I thought that might cause complications, but the kitchen installers didn't "sound" as if they thought it would be a problem as the standard drylining depths could be factored in. (?)

Perhaps its a lot chancier than that?

I'd be hoping to get as much insulation put in as i can. I really haven't got a clue how to coordinate the process.

Any advice appreciated.

Tefral

Dryline and what you are alluding to are two different things.

is the wall a cavity wall? or is it block on flat?

Standard boards are 62.5mm or 72.5mm for wall insulation now internally. thats 50mm or 60mm insulation with the 12.5mm standard board attached.

If you might have an issue with damp, it might be required that you batten the wall before you start fixing insulation boards to it so ensure theres no mould issues.

Just be aware, the more you insulate, the more you need to ventilate.

Deregos.

I'd be going with at least 50mm insulated plasterboard on the cold walls. If there's kitchen units going on the drylined wall you may get away without having to get it skimmed, especially if your going for tiles or a splashback on the areas between the wall units and counter. Any other visable joints could be just taped, flush filled and sanded before painting . . . like the way the yanks do it.

Hi folks thanks for the comments and advice.

Its not a cavity wall, so I'm presuming block on flat?

The previous kitchen was thrown up with little attention paid to much of anything as far as i can see.

In basic terms, what would I best be doing when the kitchen is taken away away from the wall? ie: to insulate the wall?

Also, from what I can see, there is also a gap between the ply board on the floor (not tiled) and the cold wall, where a draft is coming up, presumably due to a deep space under the floor?

I'm also planning to have the total floor retiled. Apologies, I know fec all about these things.

Thanks.

PS: I’m getting workmen to do all the work, it’s just sorting out in my head the best way to go about it bearing in mind waiting times.

Im thinking.

1) take the old kitchen out

2) get the cold wall sorted

3) put the old kitchen back in. It needs dumped but as long as the cooker and sink are functional it will do.

4) get the tiler in to do the floor

5) get new kitchen put in

it’s really the cold wall and the gap between the floor and two walls that need sorted before any new kitchen goes in.

and getting the floor tiled before the new kitchen goes in.

its a head wrecker trying to coordinate the work when I know very little about construction.

Any advice appreciated. Thanks

Furze99

A few photos might help?

If I were doing it, I'd strip the room, get any wall insulation sorted first and then the floor.

Whether you 'put back' the old kitchen units might depend on how long you'd waiting for the new units to be installed. Sounds like unnecessary hassle. But if it's just reinstalling some sort of basic sink and cooker, plug in fridge - the bare minimum, would work for a while.

Ideally those making the new kitchen units would measure up after you've done the walls and floor. No room for dispute then afterwards. Ask them how long it may take to deliver and install after that.

10-10-20

I'd get the tiler in before putting the old kitchen back in. That way it's completely tiled to the back wall. It's a curse otherwise.

Also decide whether you want to add/move sockets or waste-pipes now, you can't do that after the drylining is complete.

Doop

As mentioned there's a difference between dryling with a standard size board 12.5mm and using insulated plaster board anywhere from 30mm-70+mm, it sounds like you want to do the latter but the kitchen installers did not understand that? they will absolutely need to remeasure.

The cold at the wall junction is probably due to your house haveing a raised timber floor ie with a ventilated void underneath your floor. the best you can do is fill the gaps. You can use expanding foam and then cut it flush to the floor. The other method is taking up the full floor and insulating below it which is a huge job.

awec

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118103844#Comment_118103844

Taped and jointed is fairly standard here now too.

awec

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118105830#Comment_118105830

Depending on the shape of your kitchen, since you're going to be affecting the dimensions of your room your old kitchen may no longer fit.

Thanks guys. I really appreciate the comments and they are all 100% spot on. I’ll fire up a few photos.

Many thanks