Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

Triton T80z no hot water

Options
  • 12-09-2021 10:50am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 537 ✭✭✭


    Hi. I'm having issues with a Triton T80z electric shower. It's only a couple of years old and rarely used, but recently it isn't heating the water. No matter what settings it has the water comes out cold. I had a look online and the most common cause of this was the thermal cut out switch, so I replaced that but it didn't fix the issue.

    The shower was originally fed from the mains but the pipework was recently changed to be fed from a tank in the attic, would this be a problem? We have another electric shower in the house fed from the tank and there was never a problem with it. Is there anything else that might be the cause? Thanks



Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 3,474 ✭✭✭John.G


    The 80Z is a mains fed shower and won't work from a tank as there is not enough pressure to operate the (safety) flow switch to close the micro switche(s) which energize the heating elements, there may be a low pressure indicator on the panel. Your other shower has a inbuilt pump which you will or should hear when shower is turned on.



  • Registered Users Posts: 537 ✭✭✭Brian2208


    Yeah the other shower has an inbuilt pump alright. There is a low pressure indicator on the shower but it isn't lighting up so didn't think that was the problem. So the solution seems to be to change the pipework back or replace the shower for a tank fed one. Thanks



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,474 ✭✭✭John.G


    I am assuming that the shower is upstairs, a meter or so below the storage tank, if on the ground floor then it possibly/probably should work.

    Are you sure that the indicator is a light?, I thought I saw some form of mechanical flag that changed position on the one that I briefly showered under in a relations house.



  • Registered Users Posts: 537 ✭✭✭Brian2208


    The shower is downstairs in a 2-story house, water tank in the attic. There's a low pressure indicator on the front, looks like a light but I couldn't see where it was being lit from inside when I had the cover off. I'll have to investigate further to see if it's a mechanical indicator.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,474 ✭✭✭John.G


    Turn the "temperature" to fully cold and switch on the shower and hold a dish/bucket under the shower head for exactly 1 minute (or 30 secs) and measure this flow rate, if its greater than ~ 5 or 6 LPM then that should satisfy the flow switch. If it is and you have a multimeter test for 230V on one side of the TCO that you renewed then switch off the power and check the TCO for continuity (0 ohms)

    Showers normally need 1 bar (dynamic) pressure to give sufficient flowrate but your head of ~ 0.6 bar might be enough, anyway see what you get flowrate wise first.

    Also ensure the filter is clean.

    On a healthy shower with a low pressure/flow LED, the LED will light up briefly for a second or two when you press the start button and then go out when the micro switch closes, if pressure not sufficient then it will stay on, if the TCO has operated then it will not light up under any circumstances.



  • Advertisement
Advertisement