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Sourcing 5.5mm anchor wall plugs 100mm long

  • 17-08-2021 10:39pm
    Registered Users Posts: 777 ✭✭✭

    I am hanging a curtain rail holder on an internal brick wall which has 5cm of cozy board. The restriction is that the rail hanger has slots which only allow 5.5mm screws. I got some 5.5mm screws in B&Q, but I can't find any long 5.5mm wall plug anchors. Any thoughts on where I could get some?

    Any advice appreciated!



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,705 ✭✭✭beachhead

    Lenehan's Hardware,Capel Street,Dublin Tel 01.8730466 might be able to help.

  • Registered Users Posts: 1,627 ✭✭✭Gen.Zhukov

    . ffs! Site

  • Registered Users Posts: 21,704 ✭✭✭✭Esel

    Could you enlarge the slots on the brackets?

    Not your ornery onager

  • Registered Users Posts: 5,211 ✭✭✭10-10-20

    There is a trick to this.

    Use normal wall plugs (example: and long screws (greater than: 5cm depth insulated plasterboard + the depth of the wall plug + depth of the curtain rail holder). Usually these end up being some type of partially threaded wood-screw (example

    First drill the required hole (normally 6mm or 6.5mm diameter) for the plug right in past the insulated plasterboard and into the brick so that there is sufficient depth in the brick to take the plug. Then insert a wall plug into the hole. Then feed the required screw fully through the curtain rail holder and then partially screw this into the wall-plug (like, 1 turn, but not enough to cause the plug to expand). Then use a light hammer to drive the screw and plug into the brick. Then tighten the screw as normal to affix the curtain rail holder.

    A top tip would be to slightly over-drill the depth of the hole so that the screw can fully deploy, but don't use a poor quality or damaged/twisted drill-bit (as it will weaken the hole and fixing).

    Beyond that, go for Esel's solution. :)

  • Registered Users Posts: 777 ✭✭✭boardtc

    Thanks, talked to them. They had 12" long wall plugs that you can cut to size, he said the come in 3 thicknesses and he was recommending 8mm for my 5.5mm screw. Not sure....

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  • Registered Users Posts: 777 ✭✭✭boardtc

    First I thought you were giving out to me, then I found but not much came up under wall plugs....

  • Registered Users Posts: 30,916 ✭✭✭✭Lumen

  • Registered Users Posts: 7,393 ✭✭✭the_pen_turner

    For a 5 mm screw you would want at least a 6mm plug or a 8mm plug.

    5mm and 5.5mm plugs are only for light weight stuff and definitely not with 50mm unsupported in between

    Use a corefix or an Express nail with 6mm plug

  • Registered Users Posts: 777 ✭✭✭boardtc

    Interesting. I had not heard of corefix, I found

    But the metal bracket for the curtain only takes a 5.5, should I try and drill it:

    I found these M8 express nails:

    Is the idea to fit a wall plug inside them? I was not sure what size wall plug would fit in side these?

  • Registered Users Posts: 2,050 ✭✭✭Explosive_Cornflake

    For a 50mm I'd go with the corefix, and drill out the bracket if the screw doesn't fit.

    I've a box here, I can measure the screw size.

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  • Registered Users Posts: 7,393 ✭✭✭the_pen_turner

    Corefix are great. Not sure what size screw it is.

    I use wrawllpkug brand uno plug they are red and 6mm. I have used the long length of plug but it can be tricky to tap it into the express nail. It will bend before it will tap in. I use 2 red 6mm plugs if I'm using a longer screw, just use a screw to tap it in with a hammer

  • Registered Users Posts: 2,050 ✭✭✭Explosive_Cornflake

  • Registered Users Posts: 777 ✭✭✭boardtc

    Super @Explosive_Cornflake 100% made to order for this I reckon, I ordered the corefix box.

  • Registered Users Posts: 2,288 ✭✭✭J.R.

    As 10-10-20 explained - This is the way to do it. Simple, cheap, fast and will definitely work.

  • Registered Users Posts: 1,627 ✭✭✭Gen.Zhukov

    No, not at all. I had typed out a post and had posted it. The new platform decided to turn that into a double post and I deleted 1 of the posts and both got deleted. Lost patience and edited it.

    My initial post suggested using M6 drop in anchors.

  • Registered Users Posts: 30,916 ✭✭✭✭Lumen

    I've seen that "double post" behaviour. There isn't a double post, there's only one but it's shown twice until you refresh. So you deleted the only one.

    It's annoying alright.

  • Registered Users Posts: 777 ✭✭✭boardtc

    Going back to this job. The corefix solution worked well but it is not good for long curtains which result in extra pressure on the middle holder I think. At the end of the day with the cozy board, there is only 5cm plug in the wall and a 5.5mm screw. The middle curtain holder of the 3.6m curtain pole gets all the pressure of opening and closing and 1+ year later the 2 corefix plugs are out from the wall some and the middle is drooping :-(

    So with the corefix solution, results I have 10mm holes in the wall. Unfortunately, express nails only come in M8, but I was thinking perhaps I could use 150-200mm long express nails into the same hole. The holders only take 5.5 but I would need an M6 screw for it to be tight in the M8 express nail.

    Doing new holes is awkward because of where the long curtain pole joins in the middle. Maybe I can turn the holder and put in 2 new holes and use express nails so I am into the wall more but I still have the 5.5mm issue in an M8 express nail.

    Any ideas to get the middle secure again given where I am at?

  • Registered Users Posts: 30,916 ✭✭✭✭Lumen

    Perhaps fix a piece of hardwood e.g. length of 50mm hardwood dowell, to the concrete in place of a cylinder of insulated board, e.g. using a holesaw, and then screw the curtain rail holder into that.

    Bond the dowell to the concrete using epoxy or construction adhesive. With such a large contact area it should have good adhesion.

  • Registered Users Posts: 2,050 ✭✭✭Explosive_Cornflake

    You could use some longs screws/threaded rod and a chemical anchor.

    See here

  • Registered Users Posts: 1,627 ✭✭✭Gen.Zhukov

    OP, you seem to be restricted in your options with the 5.5mm slot in the bracket. Opening that up would be my priority. How you do that depends on tools available etc. I'd grind a mil or two off each side of the slot. Drilling is possible but good chance of bit biting into the slot and jamming. The min size of bit to try imo would be 8mm HSS. Flat metal file would be an option too.

    EDIT: tip for drilling - drill 8mm hole in piece of wood - clamp/screw bracket to wood with slot over 8mm hole - drill through from other side

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  • Registered Users Posts: 26,380 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo

    In the past I have either cut out a section of the plasterboard wall and fixed wooden blocks directly to the wall behind and then screw the rail into the blocks

    Or, fit some timber to the block over the plasterboard and then fix the rail to that timber.

    Approach 2 is easier but depending on the curtain design you might want to use some "ornate" wood painted to match the wall to hide it.

  • Registered Users Posts: 777 ✭✭✭boardtc

    Some brilliant ideas everyone, many thanks. in terms of hiding the work, I am attracted to this one I think. I could drill the holes deeper and chemically anchor the M10 rod to leave the rod flush with the plasterboard. Could I then just put the wall plug for 5.5mm long screws into the rod!? Or drill out to widen the holes to allow an M6 screw if needed, what size screw with a wall plug would work inside an M10 rod?

  • Registered Users Posts: 2,050 ✭✭✭Explosive_Cornflake

    I'd get some long m5, m5.5 or m6 rod, set it into wall deep, say 150-200mm. Chemically fix that.

    If you only find m6 rod, then enlarge the hole on the bracket.

    Get some nuts to match. Screw one or two on before cutting the rod to clean up the thread when you screw it off.

    A bit of filler to patch the old 10mm hole and you should be done.

  • Registered Users Posts: 777 ✭✭✭boardtc

    Ok, with a 5.5mm rod I can screw in a 5.5 screw? I actually thought the thread was just on the outside of a threaded rod.

  • Registered Users Posts: 1,627 ✭✭✭Gen.Zhukov

    I don't think 5.5mm threaded rod exists.

    OP, if I'm reading this right, you have a 10mm hole in the wall. I've mentioned drop in anchors above.

    A M8 drop in anchor has an M8 internal thread and an OD of 10mm. It has a little tapered wedge in it. You put the anchor in the wall (10mm hole) you then drive the wedge in with a hammer and a punch. The wedge, when driven in, expands the anchor and grips the wall. You are then left with a female M8 thread in the wall. Open up the slot in the bracket as described above and use a M8 screw

  • Registered Users Posts: 777 ✭✭✭boardtc

    Brilliant, thank you General. I found the one in your picture I believe, it's only 34mm long so I don't need to redrill as I have a 5cm deep M10 hole. I will be punching into the hole blind though so perhaps it will go in past the masonry hole opening, probably no issue with that.

    Post edited by boardtc on

  • Registered Users Posts: 1,627 ✭✭✭Gen.Zhukov

    Couple of points - push/tap the whole anchor in to the back of the hole using a 10mm dowel or similar. The punch to drive the wedge in could be knocked up out of an old screwdriver or something. I think the max dia of the punch would be 6mm to avoid damaging the M8 thread of the anchor.

    The link you put up doesn't mention the OD and I see some makes say they're 9mm OD - I know it's only a mil but I'd prefer the 10mm

    For anyone else thinking of using these -

  • Registered Users Posts: 777 ✭✭✭boardtc

    Super stuff. Some clarifications for myself:

    1. Can you recommend one I can buy with an OD 10mm?
    2. From your description & diagram, I gather that the first step is to use an M6 punch to make sure the M8 anchor (with M10 OD) is engaged in the M10 hole (again this is all done blind). Then I switch to an M10 dowel to get it in all the way. Is this correct?
    3. The diagram suggests a brush to clear out the hole after drilling. I've never done this. What do people use?

  • Registered Users Posts: 1,627 ✭✭✭Gen.Zhukov

    The ones in the pic I posted were from radionics - .30c each but seems like a bag of 50 though. Don't get too hung up on the OD - the ones in B&Q may well be 10mm, it just doesn't say.

    Tap the anchor in fully - then drive the wedge in as the last step. The setting tool above is a bit confusing as it would be for a pro banging in a lot of these every day. Dust - not a huge issue, a quick vac would do. The homemade punch should fit into the anchor easily, it's the top of the wedge that you need to hit

    Found one in the shed and tapped the wedge out so ye can see what the craic is with them

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  • Registered Users Posts: 777 ✭✭✭boardtc

    Thanks for the link. The picture helps too! I was struggling with what the wedge was. My current understanding then is that the wedge is inserted in the metal anchor and comes as part of it when you buy it, but you remove the wedge when first putting the anchor in.