Flue clay liner vs flexi liner repair

ShowMeTheCash

Last time I got my chimney cleaned the sweep pulled out broken clay flue liner debris.
He is coming with camera to assess the damage.
I am going to replace the current Erin stove with a newer Erin stove so I am as well fixing what needs fixed now also.



Question I have is this.
If the clay liners are damaged what are the options?


If I remember correctly he did say the clay liners over time tend to crack about 5 feet up, I think to replace the liners it is a big enough job he was talking about drilling into the chimney brace.



Any advice / explanation to what usually is done would be appreciated.



From looking online I see 2 options.
Brake all the liners with a tool, then essentially replace with new liners.


I see people just use the flexi steel liner.


Thanks

Outkast_IRE

The flexi liner packed with vermiculite around it is the best solution when utilising a stove.

This is recommended with stoves in general

ShowMeTheCash

Outkast_IRE wrote: »

The flexi liner packed with vermiculite around it is the best solution when utilising a stove.

This is recommended with stoves in general

OK that seems to be the way we are going.


Another question.


So I have a stanley Erin stove.
He is recommending not using the existing flue entry point at the back but to run pipe out of the top of the stove and inserting it a few feet up the chimney brace. (I have seen it done like this before).


I asked why? As it seems to be more work as he is now going to have to cut a hole in the brace above the existing entry point.



He said the flue liner tend to wear when they are connected at the base of the stove....


Does this seem a fair point?


It means I will need to get a spigot pipe 90 degree join etc probably need a back plate for the wall at the join.

whizbang

I'm not sure if its a good idea to use a 90* bend a few feet up...shouldnt it be 45* ?

Sounds like it would look crap.

ShowMeTheCash

Possibly 45 degree will be the pipe I am not sure until he does the work.




If he was to just install the pipe like is is, it will look exactly the same, only difference being the flue liner will be installed.


I am more interested in whether what he is saying is legitimate and worth the extra work of cutting into the chimney brace creating a new entry point not using the existing entry point because flue liners tend to corrode when attached at the base.


If I go on youtube I see installations of the flue liner at the base all the time by plumbers.


My take on it is this. The guys probably see's the corrosion all the time. He said to me it is because the heat corrodes them. I said to him, it's a stove there would be less heat going up the chimney. So albeit he might be right about the corrosion he seems to be wrong to the reason why.





From reading online it seems to be due to the lack heat.
Suit and the stuff that builds up in the chimney is from what I read corrosive to the liners over time. With an open fire however most of the heat goes up the chimney and there is actually less of a build up of the suit.
With a stove there is a lot less heat going up the chimney which actually cause more of a build up of suit, the liner causes the resins and crap to cool then fall back down to the base of the liner, if not cleaned regular this stuff eats at the metals and can catch fire.


In theory it seems to make sense but how much of a problem it actually is I do not know.

ShowMeTheCash

Repair happening today, I actually had it wrong he is putting the pipe inside the chimney brace to connect to flue liner.


So it will look exactly the same as it was before.