Dribble bar slurry spreading

Good loser

When last using this method of spreading some spouts kept getting blocked and had to be freed manually more than once. This was not on, so reverted to the splash plate after half the second load was spread.
Operator said it was hay blocking the spouts - I had fed about 10 hay bales at end of housing.
Could it be that the macerator on the spreader wasn't doing it's job? Does anyone have suggestions on how to rectify problem?

Say my name

Good loser wrote: »

When last using this method of spreading some spouts kept getting blocked and had to be freed manually more than once. This was not on, so reverted to the splash plate after half the second load was spread.
Operator said it was hay blocking the spouts - I had fed about 10 hay bales at end of housing.
Could it be that the macerator on the spreader wasn't doing it's job? Does anyone have suggestions on how to rectify problem?

Are you new to using a dribble bar?

It's important to use the macerator both directions.
In the first few loads I had a problem with it blocking. I opened up the stone trap while unknowingly leaving the macerator going and covered myself in slurry.

After that I found the best way is to run the macerator at spreading but when the tank empties switch the macerator the other way while shutting off the valve.
(Touchwood) I haven't had a blockage since.

I've heard tell of people having problems from nearly day one just as my dribble bar dealer says were plumbed up wrong.

The thinking on both ways with the macerator is to keep it sharp and prevent burrs forming on one side.

If it's new and you're getting problems I'd get your dealer out to demonstrate it properly for their view.

Good loser

Say my name wrote: »

Are you new to using a dribble bar?

It's important to use the macerator both directions.
In the first few loads I had a problem with it blocking. I opened up the stone trap while unknowingly leaving the macerator going and covered myself in slurry.

After that I found the best way is to run the macerator at spreading but when the tank empties switch the macerator the other way while shutting off the valve.
(Touchwood) I haven't had a blockage since.

I've heard tell of people having problems from nearly day one just as my dribble bar dealer says were plumbed up wrong.

The thinking on both ways with the macerator is to keep it sharp and prevent burrs forming on one side.

If it's new and you're getting problems I'd get your dealer out to demonstrate it properly for their view.

Thanks for the reply.
It's not my machine - was the contractors. I will pass on your advice.

Do you think it will be able to handle hay pulled into slats?

Say my name

Good loser wrote: »

Thanks for the reply.
It's not my machine - was the contractors. I will pass on your advice.

Do you think it will be able to handle hay pulled into slats?

Last contractor I had here was getting blocked in my tank.
He was getting blocked in other places too though.

It's my dealer who remarked that his particular set up was plumbed wrong since the start.

My own tractor had to have a continuous high flow extra hydraulic coupling plumbed in to accommodate the tanker.
Not sure of my contractor's set up I never took much attention at the time.
But not since that one time early this year I've not blocked since.

I've had hay here fed too and bale silage.

I can't really answer your question. Probably depends.

DBK1

Say my name wrote: »

Are you new to using a dribble bar?

It's important to use the macerator both directions.
In the first few loads I had a problem with it blocking. I opened up the stone trap while unknowingly leaving the macerator going and covered myself in slurry.

After that I found the best way is to run the macerator at spreading but when the tank empties switch the macerator the other way while shutting off the valve.
(Touchwood) I haven't had a blockage since.

I've heard tell of people having problems from nearly day one just as my dribble bar dealer says were plumbed up wrong.

The thinking on both ways with the macerator is to keep it sharp and prevent burrs forming on one side.

If it's new and you're getting problems I'd get your dealer out to demonstrate it properly for their view.

Most manufacturers are now setting up the control boxes so that the macerator automatically changes direction every 2 mins or so. I know on the Conor tanks there’s a little led light on the monitor and when that’s on the macerator is in reverse.

Hay or dry silage can cause an issue as what happens is very small bits get through and they build up where the hose goes onto the steel spout down at the shoe and eventually block it.

The main thing to do is make sure the slurry is well watered down and well agitated.

Good loser

DBK1 wrote: »

Most manufacturers are now setting up the control boxes so that the macerator automatically changes direction every 2 mins or so. I know on the Conor tanks there’s a little led light on the monitor and when that’s on the macerator is in reverse.

Hay or dry silage can cause an issue as what happens is very small bits get through and they build up where the hose goes onto the steel spout down at the shoe and eventually block it.

The main thing to do is make sure the slurry is well watered down and well agitated.

The issue you mention in the middle paragraph was my problem I would say.

Not sure what tanker my contractor was using; there could be quite a difference between makes. I am required to use the trailing shoe as I have a Nitrates derogation.

Reggie.

Good loser wrote: »

The issue you mention in the middle paragraph was my problem I would say.

Not sure what tanker my contractor was using; there could be quite a difference between makes. I am required to use the trailing shoe as I have a Nitrates derogation.

You can use a dribble bar either

Good loser

Reggie. wrote: »

You can use a dribble bar either

Sorry I was using the terms interchangeably - dribble bar and trailing shoe.

Don't even know which one I'm talking about! Probably the dribble bar.