Replacing a 3 bar pump

mrcheez

My pump is very noisy so I imagine the brushes have gone.

I'm considering buying a new one as there's no guarantee it can be repaired on site and I can't afford to be without it while it's being repaired off-site since it powers all upstairs water.

There are two joins that I can see: water in, water out.

How hard is it for a non-specialist (i.e. me) to replace it myself?

Is it really a plumber-only job?

mrcheez

For reference it's a Walrus TQ400

https://walruspump.com/en-global/product/detail/60.html

mrcheez

Actually there might be a bit more to it...

https://walruspump.com/images/media/product/TQ/SM/ENG/B002E-3-TQ400-800_en.pdf

listermint

Turn off power, check power is actually off. Turn off water feed. Pull the black clip ring up this releases the hose pull hose out. Do thes both sides.

Put in new pump push hose in and press in black clip to hold hose. Both sides.

Restore power to new pump

.tea.

mistress_gi

mrcheez wrote: »

Actually there might be a bit more to it...

https://walruspump.com/images/media/product/TQ/SM/ENG/B002E-3-TQ400-800_en.pdf

This looks like instructions if you want to replace the seal itself.
If you are doing a like for like replacement i don't see why you couldn't try it. Just make sure you close the wager mains and empty the tank and heating system before you start

mrcheez

mistress_gi wrote: »

This looks like instructions if you want to replace the seal itself.
If you are doing a like for like replacement i don't see why you couldn't try it. Just make sure you close the wager mains and empty the tank and heating system before you start

ah right, so there's a bit more than simply plugging in the new machine like changing a battery?

If I didn't empty the tank and heating system what would happen?

Calahonda52

mistress_gi wrote: »

This looks like instructions if you want to replace the seal itself.
If you are doing a like for like replacement i don't see why you couldn't try it. Just make sure you close the wager mains and empty the tank and heating system before you start

whats with emptying the heating system? makes no sense.

mrcheez

listermint wrote: »

Turn off power, check power is actually off. Turn off water feed. Pull the black clip ring up this releases the hose pull hose out. Do thes both sides.

Put in new pump push hose in and press in black clip to hold hose. Both sides.

Restore power to new pump

.tea.

I checked with the supplier and apparently that model is no longer in stock and replaced with a newer model which, thankfully, has the outlets in the same position.

The main difference is that the pump flanges are different, so the old flanges will have to be removed and the new pump flanges put on.

Again, is that simple enough?

mistress_gi

Calahonda52 wrote: »

whats with emptying the heating system? makes no sense.

I assume this is a pump that distributes hot and cold water. If that is not the case then you don't need to bleed the hot water system just switch off the main water supply

...Ghost...

I did it last year. No plumbing experience. Took about 2 hours and lost about a cup of water on the floor which was good going as I didn't drain the boiler. Mine was hot and cold, so 2 inlets and 2 outlets. My model had also been phased out. The flexible hoses come with valves, so make sure they are open before you run the new pump, or you'll cook it.

mrcheez

mistress_gi wrote: »

I assume this is a pump that distributes hot and cold water. If that is not the case then you don't need to bleed the hot water system just switch off the main water supply

No, just single in and out as per the opening post


Regarding the flange difference thing, is that just an extra component I need to buy along with the pump or comes with it?