Modern-ish wheel that can take a 7spd cassette?

MojoMaker

Not even sure what sort of freehub that might be but I'm looking at putting a relatively modern wheel (say < 10 years old) onto an old frame as part of a neo-retro adaptation. I'm unsure if I can make this work - cassette adaptors, freehub replacements?

It's not an option to tinker with the beautiful 7sp shimano drivetrain.

Macy0161

I have used a seven speed cassette on my direct drive smart turbo - the spacer for the 10 speed, plus another spacer (4.5mm). Anyway, I found the spacer info pretty easy googling.

Worked fine on the turbo, but the bike was a 2010's carrera zelos, so was 130mm rather than 126mm rear spacing (may not be an issue). Looks a bit strange on the turbo, but worked, not sure how it would work on the road.

Edit - just looked up my order (pre-brexit)
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/cassettes/wheels-manufacturing-7-speed-cassette-on-8-speed-hub-body-spacer-each/?sessionid=2542ae1c32256ec14cbde4a25546447330a38f23&geoc=IE

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hub-spares/shimano-duraace-fh9000-rear-right-low-spacer-185mm-y4t724000/?sessionid=2542ae1c32256ec14cbde4a25546447330a38f23&geoc=IE

MojoMaker

Cheers Macy.

So those edits kinda address my next question - can I get a 7spd cassette to work on essentially an 11spd freehub body using this combination of spacers?

Type 17

Yes, with the right amount of spacers, a 7-speed cassette will work on any width freehub body up to 11 speed but, as Macy0161 mentions, axle spacing may be an issue - if the older frame has a big difference in axle spacing (more than ~5mm) than the new wheel, fitting a wider axle may not be possible without stretching the frame stays out to fit it which, depending on what the frame is made from, may cause damage.

For a start, measure the distance between the inside edges of the rear dropouts, and see if you can get a wheel with that axle spacing. If not, the solution depends on what your frame material is, and how close is the size of the narrowest wheel that you can get.

MojoMaker

Had a look, the dropout distance is 126mm inside-to-inside.

The frame itself is Reynolds 2060 steel. Just tried a Zonda on there - won't fit.

ARX

If you don't want to put a 130 mm hub into a 126 mm frame, you might have to get a 126 mm freewheel hub and put a 7-speed freewheel (like this) on it.

Macy0161

MojoMaker wrote: »

Cheers Macy.

So those edits kinda address my next question - can I get a 7spd cassette to work on essentially an 11spd freehub body using this combination of spacers?

It works on my turbo anyway. Only reason that bike came off the turbo was because of lockdown/ zwift racing (where I missed the extra gears/ smaller steps).

I've a steel frame awaiting me doing something with it (no idea what tubing, it's my old 5 speed "racer"). The stays will stretch to allow me fit in 130mm in a straight swap. From googling at the time I last considered starting the restore, very mixed opinions as to whether you get away with that, should cold set as per sheldon brown or go the pro route. fwiw I haven't started the restore, but I was going to chance it, at least initially!

MojoMaker

I'd rather not modify the frame - it's too nice and this first world problem isn't painful enough by any means.

So looking in the direction of the wheel - does such a thing exist - modern, light, and narrow?

Thud

MojoMaker wrote: »

I'd rather not modify the frame - it's too nice and this first world problem isn't painful enough by any means.

So looking in the direction of the wheel - does such a thing exist - modern, light, and narrow?

you could get a set built, new rims on old hubs?

Type 17

ARX wrote: »

If you don't want to put a 130 mm hub into a 126 mm frame, you might have to get a 126 mm freewheel hub and put a 7-speed freewheel (like this) on it.

You can also play with the axle spacers on a freewheel hub to reach 126mm, and re-dish it to re-centre the rim in the frame

Macy0161

MojoMaker wrote: »

I'd rather not modify the frame - it's too nice and this first world problem isn't painful enough by any means.

When I say stretch - there's enough give in them to allow the modern wheel. If I take out the 130mm they spring/ move back. This could be that the frame is fecked too though, of course! Or it was always just a rubbish frame.

MojoMaker

How would that adaptation be made? Heat-treating?

Macy0161

MojoMaker wrote: »

How would that adaptation be made? Heat-treating?

Didn't really look into it, given the quality of my frame. I haven't done either of the options below:

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html

Another option is to use threaded rod and nuts and washers to gradually widen the spacing. https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/dropout-alignment

Thud

The problem with widening is that the dropouts are (ever so slightly) not parallel anymore which can cause issues given the forces that go through that part of the bike.