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Garden Fence- Cladding

  • 01-04-2021 4:02pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 428 ✭✭


    I'm planning on cladding my existing fence with Microshades (94mm boards/6mm gap). Existing concrete posts are at 1.8m c/c roughly. Obviously i will fix a 4x2 or similar to the concrete post for substructure but I figure I need another vertical to fix to in between the concrete posts. Is the best way to do this by first running a 4x2 horizontally and at mid height and then fixing the verticals to them (rough sketch attached)?

    I want to minimize the amount of timber but cant think of a better way to support the microshades battens.

    https://imgur.com/ZKZlUIr


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,056 ✭✭✭wait4me


    Can I ask how do you intend to fix the 4x2 to the concrete posts? AFAIK and from a thread elsewhere in this forum, the concrete H shaped posts are reinforced concrete and difficult to bore/ drill through without compromising the concrete itself. I'll try find the thread here


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,223 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    The answer is probably Tec 7.

    But fencing a fence is just weird. Stop looking at your fence. it's fine. Just grow some stuff up it/in front of it like a normal person. :pac:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 428 ✭✭REFLINE1


    Lumen wrote: »
    The answer is probably Tec 7.

    But fencing a fence is just weird. Stop looking at your fence. it's fine. Just grow some stuff up it/in front of it like a normal person. :pac:

    Thanks for your helpful comments. Firstly it's too low in spots as we put in a raised patio, secondly you can see through it, thirdly and most importantly my wife wants it done! :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 428 ✭✭REFLINE1


    wait4me wrote: »
    Can I ask how do you intend to fix the 4x2 to the concrete posts? AFAIK and from a thread elsewhere in this forum, the concrete H shaped posts are reinforced concrete and difficult to bore/ drill through without compromising the concrete itself. I'll try find the thread here

    Ya I hadn't quite figured that out yet!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,863 ✭✭✭RobAMerc


    would you not move everything left or right 6 inches ? use the fence panels themselves to fix your upright battons to ?
    trying to fix something to the concrete posts is really a waste of time with so much other stuff you could be driving screws into.
    if the verticals are thick enough to stand proud of the concrete posts you can just ignore the posts and clad past them.

    If you have a fairly tight spacing as proposed you'll not see whats behind it really.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,974 ✭✭✭whizbang


    I dont figure why you need 4x2 ?

    Vertical or horizontally laid ?

    2x1 treated is cheap as chips, just nail strips on existing timber will bring it flush with the concrete posts.
    They will slot into the posts to allow you to extend up also.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 559 ✭✭✭Fine Cheers


    I suggest you check with supplier re centres of fixings for the microshade.
    If I am reading you correctly you are suggesting 900mm centres which I suggest should be around 600mm.
    I did a cheap and cheerful timber cladding to hide a boundary wall with 4 x 4 uprights at 900m centres but it was just regular treated 4 x 1 & 2 x 1. I went with 4 x 4 to make it easier to run by piers.
    Microshade sounds like a more substantial investment so need to be sure !
    Is that some sort of patio tile at ground level ?
    Those existing timber panels look like hit/miss and should be reasonably sturdy.
    Once neighbour has no issue, and as already suggested, how about just counter battening existing panels to allow your microshade run past the concrete posts.
    If you want to increase height to match posts then you just run up some 4 x 1 maybe but not sure how that would look from your neighbours side. Here's a couple of links that might help:

    https://contemporaryfencing.com/index.php/2019/01/16/how-to-hide-a-concrete-posts-and-gravel-boards/

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DJ7nXTWMacs&t=28s


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,863 ✭✭✭RobAMerc


    not sure what product you are using but I built this to cover and ugly wall.

    Clearly it needs to e finsihed and stained / treated but I am happy with the way its coming along.

    This is rough 2x1 and I believe at about 500cm distance it looks as good as any of the products.

    In your case, I would simply screw simple uprights to the old fence at equal intervals and screw the horizontals to those .

    548961.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 428 ✭✭REFLINE1


    Thanks for all the advice, much appreciated. Yes 4x2 probably way over the top for a frame, I felt that by fixing a frame independent of the existing fence panels would be the way to go but in hindsight I'm probably making a bigger job out of it that it needs to be.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 428 ✭✭REFLINE1


    I suggest you check with supplier re centres of fixings for the microshade.
    If I am reading you correctly you are suggesting 900mm centres which I suggest should be around 600mm.
    I did a cheap and cheerful timber cladding to hide a boundary wall with 4 x 4 uprights at 900m centres but it was just regular treated 4 x 1 & 2 x 1. I went with 4 x 4 to make it easier to run by piers.
    Microshade sounds like a more substantial investment so need to be sure !
    Is that some sort of patio tile at ground level ?
    Those existing timber panels look like hit/miss and should be reasonably sturdy.
    Once neighbour has no issue, and as already suggested, how about just counter battening existing panels to allow your microshade run past the concrete posts.
    If you want to increase height to match posts then you just run up some 4 x 1 maybe but not sure how that would look from your neighbours side. Here's a couple of links that might help:

    https://contemporaryfencing.com/index.php/2019/01/16/how-to-hide-a-concrete-posts-and-gravel-boards/

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DJ7nXTWMacs&t=28s

    Thats great, thanks


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 428 ✭✭REFLINE1


    RobAMerc wrote: »
    not sure what product you are using but I built this to cover and ugly wall.

    Clearly it needs to e finsihed and stained / treated but I am happy with the way its coming along.

    This is rough 2x1 and I believe at about 500cm distance it looks as good as any of the products.

    In your case, I would simply screw simple uprights to the old fence at equal intervals and screw the horizontals to those .

    548961.jpg

    Nice job, i really like this type of cladding , think it looks very smart. I intend to incorporate a few lights in it as well.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,863 ✭✭✭RobAMerc


    Ive cut a corner here and put the lights in the ground up lighting it. Because of the features( trees and 'window boxes' )it works well I think.


  • Administrators Posts: 54,424 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭awec


    I'm not sure I'd trust fixing to the existing fence tbh.

    Often with those fences the panels have some movement in them within the posts, so you might find your new microshade fence moves in the wind.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 428 ✭✭REFLINE1


    awec wrote: »
    I'm not sure I'd trust fixing to the existing fence tbh.

    Often with those fences the panels have some movement in them within the posts, so you might find your new microshade fence moves in the wind.

    yes I considered that but they can be wedged/fixed to ensure they dont rattle about within the post.


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