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Air Vents - Cavity Wall

  • 31-03-2021 6:31pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 85 ✭✭


    Hi - house is approx 20 years old - cavity walls - white insulation boards in cavity.

    House very drafty - there is air vents in each room - was told be BER guy that having a 4 inch pipe connecting outside vent cover to inside cover (thus creating a tunnel effect) was the WRONG way to fit vents (old way of doing it) - he said remove the 4 inch pipe and just leave the outside/inside vent covers in place.

    Any advice please?


Comments

  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators Posts: 18,446 Mod ✭✭✭✭DOCARCH


    That advice does not sound right to me. All that would mean is lots of air movement in the cavity, which is not great for heat loss.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 46,547 ✭✭✭✭muffler


    was told be BER guy that having a 4 inch pipe connecting outside vent cover to inside cover (thus creating a tunnel effect) was the WRONG way to fit vents (old way of doing it) - he said remove the 4 inch pipe and just leave the outside/inside vent covers in place.
    Are you sure he didnt tell you to fit a pipe? :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,880 ✭✭✭MicktheMan


    Chances are the vents are not the major cause of your draughts.

    Regarding "tunnel effect", never heard of it!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,112 ✭✭✭PMBC


    Hi - house is approx 20 years old - cavity walls - white insulation boards in cavity.

    House very drafty - there is air vents in each room - was told be BER guy that having a 4 inch pipe connecting outside vent cover to inside cover (thus creating a tunnel effect) was the WRONG way to fit vents (old way of doing it) - he said remove the 4 inch pipe and just leave the outside/inside vent covers in place.

    Any advice please?

    That advice is completely wrong. One of the coldest houses I ever visited had the arrangement your BER man suggested and was built about 1950. A lot of people who did the BER course had little or no background in building or building science. To stop cold drafts you would need to fit a baffled wall vent and, in my recollection these only became available in the 1990s. You still need the vents.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 85 ✭✭John Electrician33


    Where would I get vent baffle vents in Dublin. Would I need to remove the existing 4inch pipe or is it just the outside and inside covers that need to be replaced?
    Thanks


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,725 ✭✭✭Metric Tensor


    Although there's limited information here I don't think the vents are your draught problem.

    I'd look for other sources of air infiltration before spending money on the vents:

    Check around windows and doors
    Suspended Floors
    Penetrations through walls, floors, ceilings
    Check around skirting and architraves

    Basically all discontinuities in your building fabric. If you give a better description of your house age, style and method of construction the posters here might be able to point you in the right direction. It's a very common problem but caused by different things in different places (and rarely the vents!)

    Edited to add: Is your house "dry lined"?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 85 ✭✭John Electrician33


    House is a bungalow - 20 years old - cavity walls - not dry lined - vents in each room - timber floors on battens but insulation in between battens.
    Master big bedroom ie end room at end hallway with 2 external walls is particular cold in morning - was thinking of 4 options

    1 - Walltite - pumped liquid foam insulation into cavity - sounds good - has anyone tried it - there is existing white polystyrene in cavity

    2 - Dry line this bedroom but would loose space in bedroom

    3 - Beads

    4 - External insulation just on these two external walls of bedroom - its at back of house so would look ok

    Any views / advice please


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,880 ✭✭✭MicktheMan


    House is a bungalow - 20 years old - cavity walls - not dry lined - vents in each room - timber floors on battens but insulation in between battens.
    Master big bedroom ie end room at end hallway with 2 external walls is particular cold in morning - was thinking of 4 options

    1 - Walltite - pumped liquid foam insulation into cavity - sounds good - has anyone tried it - there is existing white polystyrene in cavity

    2 - Dry line this bedroom but would loose space in bedroom

    3 - Beads

    4 - External insulation just on these two external walls of bedroom - its at back of house so would look ok

    Any views / advice please

    2,3 & 4 will have little if any impact on your heat loss if air leakage is predominant. 1 might but I've read about and also seen wall cracking as a result.

    Best advice I can give is you really ought to consider having a proper survey done first before spending (big) on stuff that might not improve the situation or cause other issues.


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