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2010 Ford Galaxy clutch alignment

  • 18-03-2021 2:01pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 567 ✭✭✭


    Hi all,

    I am going to tackle my first clutch job in the next few weeks. It's the wife's 2010 1.8l diesel Galaxy.

    I hope to support the front end on axle stands, the engine with a bottle jack and a timber block, and make a cradle for the transmission with my trolley jack.

    I have an impact gun so hopefully subframe bolts and hub bolts wont be too much hassle.

    I am a bit worried about lining up the pressure plate and friction plate. Is there a special tool for it, or will one of the generic clutch alignment tools do the trick?

    Any other insights from someone that has done a Galaxy or Sharan?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,522 ✭✭✭martyc5674


    Kencollins wrote: »
    Hi all,

    I am going to tackle my first clutch job in the next few weeks. It's the wife's 2010 1.8l diesel Galaxy.

    I hope to support the front end on axle stands, the engine with a bottle jack and a timber block, and make a cradle for the transmission with my trolley jack.

    I have an impact gun so hopefully subframe bolts and hub bolts wont be too much hassle.

    I am a bit worried about lining up the pressure plate and friction plate. Is there a special tool for it, or will one of the generic clutch alignment tools do the trick?

    Any other insights from someone that has done a Galaxy or Sharan?

    Nothing to be worried about.
    Get a long reach socket - the largest that still fits inside the friction plate splines.
    Then wrap it in insulation tape until it is a snug fit in the friction plate, and the flared end fills a good fit in the pressure plate. Now you’ve a nice centering aid.
    The gearbox on them are V heavy- be real careful.
    Also assuming your doing the flywheel the bolts on them can be really tight- and they are small enough Torx- so have a good quality torx set to hand.
    The ball joints can be stubborn to get out of the struts(there’s actually a special removal tool IIRC!)- but the trick is to give the strut a sharp tap whilst using a pry bar to pull down on the ball joint- they will pop off then.
    Also the steering rack be careful- there’s 2 or three bolts- one is longer and if put back in the wrong location can go through the casing, there’s nothing to prevent you doing this.
    Have fun!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 567 ✭✭✭Kencollins


    Thanks Marty!

    I still haven't decided if I am brave enough to try it. I know there is nothing technically difficult, just a lot of bits to remove!

    I have done ball joints on other cars so I bought the spreader tool, the one with the bolt that opens the scissor jaws. It hasn't failed me yet!

    I didn't realise the steering rack has to come out too, must check and see if that's going to be a dose!

    Hopefully the flywheel is OK as funds are tight, but if it looks bad then i'll have to bite the bullet. Hopefully my halfords impact screwdriver will shift the Torx bolts!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,522 ✭✭✭martyc5674


    Kencollins wrote: »
    Thanks Marty!

    I still haven't decided if I am brave enough to try it. I know there is nothing technically difficult, just a lot of bits to remove!

    I have done ball joints on other cars so I bought the spreader tool, the one with the bolt that opens the scissor jaws. It hasn't failed me yet!

    I didn't realise the steering rack has to come out too, must check and see if that's going to be a dose!

    Hopefully the flywheel is OK as funds are tight, but if it looks bad then i'll have to bite the bullet. Hopefully my halfords impact screwdriver will shift the Torx bolts!

    Actually IIRC it’s one of the rear engine mount bolts that can potentially go though the steering rack.
    Steering rack needs to be disconnected from steering column alright can’t remember TBH if rack comes down or not.. I think it stays but you need to tie it up as you’ll be disconnecting it from subframe.
    There’s nothing hard about it - lots of pulling and dragging.

    The tool I’m on about is specifically for Ford. (It’s like a puller of sorts really)
    Look up a few vids on YouTube- it’s potentially the hardest part of job the from from what I recall. But if you get a good lever, nicely tightened and a sharp tap in the right place they just pop out.
    Some DIYers give up trying to pop down the ball joint.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 863 ✭✭✭mk7r


    As a first clutch job its definitely one of the more awkward


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 619 ✭✭✭mondeoman2


    Hi Here Is A Video Of A 1.8 Tdci Mondeo Clutch Replacement Which Should Be Very Similar Id Imagine,
    Good Luck With It.:)

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=niZpAceLQNA&t=1398s


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,227 ✭✭✭Whocare


    Make sure to lock gear in position there tools you need to make


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 567 ✭✭✭Kencollins


    Thanks for all the feedback!

    The local indie said he will do it for €250 labour. It's not worth two days of me fighting with it for that!


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