Transfer components to new frame.

DublinBeaker

I'm thinking about buying a new carbon frame.

Any idea how much would a lbs would charge to transfer components from current to new frame.

I've updated several components over the years on current bike that that's my current thinking.

Cee-Jay-Cee

Probably anywhere from €100-150

magicbastarder

would you consider doing it yourself? if the new frame comes with a BB preinstalled it'll make it a lot easier.

crosstownk

You'll need to ensure that all components are compatible with the new frame - BB, seat post, front derailleur, etc.

velo.2010

Cee-Jay-Cee wrote: »

Probably anywhere from €100-150

If true, that's a lot of money to be spending on swapping componenets regardless of how well a job the bike shop may do.

I learned about building up a bike by doing exactly the opposite — stripping one down first. You learn in reverse of what you need to do, what goes where etc.

Just sure to have the right tools to remove certain parts.

Would you have much change out of 150 euro to buy all the tools for the job if starting from none?

magicbastarder

velo.2010 wrote: »

If true, that's a lot of money to be spending on swapping componenets regardless of how well a job the bike shop may do.

how much would you pay to have a bike re-cabled and handlebars re-wrapped, i wonder?

kenmc

Deleted User wrote: »

Would you have much change out of 150 euro to buy all the tools for the job if starting from none?

Be surprised if it cost more than 50 or 60 quid for the tools needed to do it.

First search : https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/ie/en/lifeline-bike-tool-kit-18-piece/rp-prod40997

Can't see much missing from that assuming there's no need for headset press

Obviously if you bought it all in park tools versions it'd be a fair chunk more

magicbastarder

torque wrench, if it's carbon you're working with.

kenmc

kenmc wrote: »

Be surprised if it cost more than 50 or 60 quid for the tools needed to do it.

First search : https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/ie/en/lifeline-bike-tool-kit-18-piece/rp-prod40997

Can't see much missing from that assuming there's no need for headset press

Obviously if you bought it all in park tools versions it'd be a fair chunk more

What was the full park tools set linked to here lately, 15k????

Only other thing I'd like to have for the job is a decent torque wrench would add few € but very reasonable money for the set you linked...... almost tempted myself :pac:

Weepsie

Their better 37 tool set is often on sale for less than that one

Wishbone Ash

DublinBeaker wrote: »

I'm thinking about buying a new carbon frame.

Any idea how much would a lbs would charge to transfer components from current to new frame.

I've updated several components over the years on current bike that that's my current thinking.

Personally I wouldn't put old components on a new frame. Perhaps it's vanity but I don't think I'd warm to it.

If there's nothing wrong with your current frame, and you're on a tight budget, why not continue to use it? Otherwise, keep the old bike and buy a carbon frame with new components.

velo.2010

magicbastarder wrote: »

how much would you pay to have a bike re-cabled and handlebars re-wrapped, i wonder?

Well, I do that myself, so I don't wonder. I think it's a case of if you learn how to strip a frame and rebuild one yourself, and been doing it for years, you question why someone would pay €€€ to have it done for them.

Wishbone Ash

velo.2010 wrote: »

.... you question why someone would pay €€€ to have it done for them.

Perhaps they value their time more. There are many things that I can do but I may choose to pay others to do it for me. This frees up time for me to do the things I want to do.

magicbastarder

velo.2010 wrote: »

Well, I do that myself, so I don't wonder. I think it's a case of if you learn how to strip a frame and rebuild one yourself, and been doing it for years, you question why someone would pay €€€ to have it done for them.

if you've not done it before, it would take hours (i'd guess easily an hour just to wrap bars for someone who has not done it before, to get it right), and many people are not mechnically minded and might not trust the job they do, and might not gain the satisfaction someone mechanically minded would get.

if you're not of a mechanical bent, perhaps that €150 would be well worth it.

at1withmyself

magicbastarder wrote: »

if you've not done it before, it would take hours (i'd guess easily an hour just to wrap bars for someone who has not done it before, to get it right), and many people are not mechnically minded and might not trust the job they do, and might not gain the satisfaction someone mechanically minded would get.

if you're not of a mechanical bent, perhaps that €150 would be well worth it.

Exactly, not everyone is mechanically minded, I worked in a shop for years when I was younger doing repairs and you'd be shocked at the botched attempts that came through the door from people trying home repairs. In some cases then it is worth paying someone professional to complete the job.

In regards the OP I think it would depend on what components your moving over, I would think you want to have a minimum of 105 and a decent pair of wheels to make it worth while.

Then be sure to price the additional parts you might need such as seat-post, headset, new cables, handlebar tape, front mech etc.. Once you add up all the parts plus the rebuild price then you'll know if its worth it. There are some great bargains on carbon frames out there so I think for ~700 you could end up with a nearly new bike so I think its an idea worth exploring. Also I have done it loads of times myself, my current good bike is just a constant rebuild of parts over the past 10 years and I'm on the 4th frame and 3rd set of wheels, 2nd group-set etc...

at1withmyself

I've attached a template I use whenever anyone asks for advice on a rebuild/upgrades or a new build.

Hope it helps.

Paul Kiernan

I usually move the whole cockpit intact e.g. I just remove the stem and refit to new steerer so no taping of bars, etc., required. And if the seatpost is same size it's a straight swap. That just leaves 2 mechs. 2 brakes and the crankset. No real problem if they're all compatible.

Problems arise when new frame is different - disc rather than rim brake, flat mount rather than post mount, braze on mech rather than clamp on, etc.

Bottom bracket is also a potential danger area as most now press fit but by using thread together type you can use normal fitment tools (rather than a press) and reduce risk of creaking as a bonus!

Be careful not to get the frame supplier to fit bottom bracket as you often need to access this area to run your internally routed cables.

Eamonnator

at1withmyself wrote: »

Exactly, not everyone is mechanically minded, I worked in a shop for years when I was younger doing repairs and you'd be shocked at the botched attempts that came through the door from people trying home repairs. In some cases then it is worth paying someone professional to complete the job.

In regards the OP I think it would depend on what components your moving over, I would think you want to have a minimum of 105 and a decent pair of wheels to make it worth while.

Then be sure to price the additional parts you might need such as seat-post, headset, new cables, handlebar tape, front mech etc.. Once you add up all the parts plus the rebuild price then you'll know if its worth it. There are some great bargains on carbon frames out there so I think for ~700 you could end up with a nearly new bike so I think its an idea worth exploring. Also I have done it loads of times myself, my current good bike is just a constant rebuild of parts over the past 10 years and I'm on the 4th frame and 3rd set of wheels, 2nd group-set etc...

@at1withmyself
Could you link one or two of these, please. I've been thinking of getting a new carbon frame, rim brakes.
Thanks.

at1withmyself

Eamonnator wrote: »

@at1withmyself
Could you link one or two of these, please. I've been thinking of getting a new carbon frame, rim brakes.
Thanks.

Will do, I get the emails from the stores and will post when they come up.

I got a lovely 29er felt last year from CRC for 300 (80% off). They had loads off road frames as well.

DublinBeaker

Thanks for all the advice.
It's a defy 0 with upgraded components.

Thinking of just buying a Giant carbon frame so all parts should be compatible.

Although I didn't think there would be any compatability issues.

Paul Kiernan

https://www.dolan-bikes.com/dolan-sporco-carbon-disc-cyclocross-frameset/

C3PO

Paul Kiernan wrote: »

https://www.dolan-bikes.com/dolan-sporco-carbon-disc-cyclocross-frameset/

Will you not get murdered with duty and VAT?

Paul Kiernan

C3PO wrote: »

Will you not get murdered with duty and VAT?

Yes, possibly. That Brexit is an effing disaster!

Dolan should sell it ex-VAT but I guess as well as VAT here you'd have import duty (10%??) plus other fees to An Post. Still probably a lot better than buying a frame from Giant Ireland though. Had a look at Rose and Canyon but their framesets are huge money!

07Lapierre

I bought a Ribble frame set just before Christmas. Very happy with it.

Www.ribblecycles.co.uk

Eamonnator

07Lapierre wrote: »

I bought a Ribble frame set just before Christmas. Very happy with it.

Www.ribblecycles.co.uk

The Endurance SL would suit me perfectly in all regards except price, bit expensive. Tempted, then discovered it's unavailable.

wersal gummage

Paul Kiernan wrote: »

I

Problems arise when new frame is different - braze on mech rather than clamp on, etc.

.

Out of interest, I took a braze on front derailleur (105, 5700 I think) off one bike and fitted it on another bike when stripping a perfectly good groupset offf a frame I no longer wanted to build up on a new frame... Anyway, new frame was band on and I got the adapter yoke, but it's never been perfect. Is this because the derailleur was designed to be a braze on and the adapter to band on is throwing it out further from the frame than it should be?

To answer the original question, I've done this a few times now and about to do it again if I can't find a groupset... But for a one off, I don't think it's worth buying the tools, unless you plan to use the tools again in the future to do your own maintenance.

cletus

wersal gummage wrote: »

To answer the original question, I've done this a few times now and about to do it again if I can't find a groupset... But for a one off, I don't think it's worth buying the tools, unless you plan to use the tools again in the future to do your own maintenance.

I'd imagine if you were inclined to build up a frame yourself, you'd likely do your own maintenance too, but might be wrong.

Anyway, nobody needs an excuse to buy tools, they're tools

wersal gummage

cletus wrote: »

I'd imagine if you were inclined to build up a frame yourself, you'd likely do your own maintenance too, but might be wrong.

Anyway, nobody needs an excuse to buy tools, they're tools

I meant that the original question was what would it cost to do this, and some of the suggestions and discussion has been to buy the tools and do it at home... My take on it is that, if its a once off type of thing, probably best to pay to have the work done (and I say that as someone who has bought the tools myself rather than pay to have it done)