Has anyone ever given up modern tech for a simpler bike?

CantGetNoSleep

I've got a bike with essentially everything you can ask for (it's a Giant TCR, Ultegra Di2, discs, power meter, carbon wheels, tubeless). Also have a winter and a gravel bike but that is a different story.

I almost bought a Caad 10 this morning. I'd like a rim brake, simpler bike. I'd keep the TCR (and tbh I probably wouldn't go back on tubeless).

Has anyone made a similar switch?

Alanbt

I had Synapse Hi Mod hydraulic brakes. Just didn’t get on with the hydraulics (probably due to mechanical ineptitude on my part) so moved back to all rim brake, tubed clinchers wheels. Have mix of carbon and steel and am more than happy with them. Look good, easy to service.
Don’t see myself moving to discs unless no choice.

Though I did buy second hand etap groupset yet to build up (summer time). First dabble in non mechanical. Will see how goes

Captain Havoc

Probably not what you're looking for but my bike for everyday use has no gimmicks, a single speed. I bought it, so I wouldn't have to do any maintenance with it.

magicbastarder

CantGetNoSleep wrote: »

Ultegra Di2, discs, power meter, carbon wheels, tubeless

my 'good' bike doesn't have Di2, discs, power meter, carbon wheels, or tubeless tyres. i don't think you'd call it agrarian, though.

Planet X

Bought a Kona Unit January 1st.
Single speed. Adore it
32 x 18. Steel.

CantGetNoSleep

magicbastarder wrote: »

my 'good' bike doesn't have Di2, discs, power meter, carbon wheels, or tubeless tyres. i don't think you'd call it agrarian, though.

No and I don't think you need any of them tbh. The CAAD10 was 850€, almost unused, Ultegra 6800. I don't think you would notice any difference performance wise compared to a 4k+ Giant TCR with all of those bells and whistles.

Di2 is great - do you need it? Absolutely not. Carbon wheels are expensive to replace. Power meter unnecessary unless you are training seriously. I do like tubeless but again not necessary at all. Discs are useful on the commuter or gravel bike - on the Sunday best absolutely not needed. Tbh having a rim brake road bike is one of my reasons that I considered this.

I'm maxed out in terms of bike space as I live in an apartment, I'd need to offload a bike I keep on the turbo to fit it which is why I didn't buy it, but I'm strongly considering it.

MojoMaker

CAAD 10 is an absolutely classic - a pure example of racing simplicity. If you have a line on one take it!

magicbastarder

CantGetNoSleep wrote: »

No and I don't think you need any of them tbh.

i can certainly see the benefits of some of those technologies if you're racing, or training for it though.

iwillhtfu

I found myself thinking similar, not bragging but I have more bikes than most bike shops at the moment and started to lose interest in the whole lot. I built a few unique single speed bikes and the simplicity of them and the ability to just jump on a bike without throwing on all the gear is just class. Gravel bikes are also cool imo the ability to get off the road and onto a random dirt track or forest is great.

magicbastarder

i've recently sold two bikes, so am down to a measly 4 now.

CantGetNoSleep

magicbastarder wrote: »

i've recently sold two bikes, so am down to a measly 4 now.

Aside from one each at my parents and in-laws, I have four in a 2-bed apartment - the TCR, winter or main bike, new gravel bike and a cheap bike on the turbo (plus two Brompton's - one of which is the wife's only bike) - but no rim-braked road bike at home.

I'm hoping that she understands that it is "an absolutely classic - a pure example of racing simplicity" though

hesker

The last bike I bought was made in 1986.

I need to start selling. It’s getting a bit ridiculous. 2 frames in the attic and one under the bed. I don’t want to count the number fully built up.

magicbastarder

we need a boards car boot sale again when the pox is done and dusted.

iwillhtfu

magicbastarder wrote: »

we need a boards car boot sale again when the pox is done and dusted.

I'd only end up buying more

magicbastarder

the problem with the one i went to was everyone was a seller and no-one was buying.

iwillhtfu

magicbastarder wrote: »

the problem with the one i went to was everyone was a seller and no-one was buying.

Oh god I'd be a lamb to slaughter :eek:

magicbastarder

there were bargains to be had. i think beasty was selling new (boxed) 10 speed ultegra RDs for a tenner each.

lamaq

Have 2 road bikes, I kept my Giant Defy as an everyday bike and it's been great to learn about maintenance on a less advanced bike. Sora parts are cheap and available.

keane2097

magicbastarder wrote: »

i can certainly see the benefits of some of those technologies if you're racing, or training for it though.

Sorry this is off-topic but I can't find the thread in searches - did you sell that titanium genesis after? Or if you have a link to the thread so I can ask you about it there

magicbastarder

I had a genesis for sale, but not a Ti one. The bike Weepsie mentions buying is the equilibrium I was selling.

secman

All rim brakes and mechanical gears here across 2 summer carbons with carbon wheelsets , ultegra , winter bikes one cheap carbon frame with ultegra with Zonda's, an old caad9 ultegra wiyh fulcrum quattro s. Most of my cycling buddies are all on carbon frames , cstbon wheelset with Di2 and disc brakes.
Almost forgot a 1992 steel frame with DuraAce with a set of mavic cpx v rim wheelset.. mechanical of course

keane2097

magicbastarder wrote: »

I had a genesis for sale, but not a Ti one. The bike Weepsie mentions buying is the equilibrium I was selling.

Sorry that was the one I meant - I should have said steel but was distracted by another thread I was reading! If it's not a steel bike I'm thinking of I better go to bed

Plastik

If the CAAD's a 58, put me in touch!

CantGetNoSleep

Plastik wrote: »

If the CAAD's a 58, put me in touch!

It was a 54 - someone selling it on my club's Facebook but it went quickly. I might bite next time one pops up for sale though

Seaswimmer

I ordered a new Mercian frame a few years ago. Built to measure and at the time I had a new set of Dura Ace down tube levers (10 speed) lying around. I built it up myself with rim brakes and the down tube levers. A new bike in an old style but I really like the old style shifting. Very easy to replace a cable and the fact that there is no indexing on the front derailleur makes life simple. Never any chain rub on the front derailleur in any combination of gearing as you can manually adjust it..

nqtfarmer

What are people’s opinions on tech and cycling? I’m a recent convert from rowing where on the water, your computer told you your cadence and concept 2 indoor told you cadence and watts. I’m overwhelmed with the amount of tech in cycling, at the mo I’ve no bike computer and have a smart trainer. Enjoying the change but in terms of starting out racing what would ye consider essential pieces of equipment for club racing and A4 racing? Thinking of investing in the wahoo element bolt bike computer to structure workouts when outside

G1032

nqtfarmer wrote: »

What are people’s opinions on tech and cycling? I’m a recent convert from rowing where on the water, your computer told you your cadence and concept 2 indoor told you cadence and watts. I’m overwhelmed with the amount of tech in cycling, at the mo I’ve no bike computer and have a smart trainer. Enjoying the change but in terms of starting out racing what would ye consider essential pieces of equipment for club racing and A4 racing? Thinking of investing in the wahoo element bolt bike computer to structure workouts when outside

Honestly........... your bike, shoes, helmet and club kit. That's all you need. Up to you then after that but nothing other than those are 'essential'.

In saying that I got a power meter in November last and it has totally transformed my training. I went for long enough without one though but when only 4 months in I'm beginning to wonder how I could ever train without one again🙈.

nomdeboardie

Seaswimmer wrote: »

I ordered a new Mercian frame a few years ago. Built to measure and at the time I had a new set of Dura Ace down tube levers (10 speed) lying around. I built it up myself with rim brakes and the down tube levers. A new bike in an old style but I really like the old style shifting. Very easy to replace a cable and the fact that there is no indexing on the front derailleur makes life simple. Never any chain rub on the front derailleur in any combination of gearing as you can manually adjust it..

I'd have to say I've been disappointed by indexed gears, and the later integrated shifter-brakes (brifters) development

at1withmyself

Have Di2 on the good bike and yesterday morning made me seriously think about not getting it again when the rear derailleur got mangled in the back wheel. Broke the derailleur and rear hanger so at ~€550 for a new one I quickly downgraded to Ultegra which was still €280, an expensive mechanical!

dahat

at1withmyself wrote: »

Have Di2 on the good bike and yesterday morning made me seriously think about not getting it again when the rear derailleur got mangled in the back wheel. Broke the derailleur and rear hanger so at ~€550 for a new one I quickly downgraded to Ultegra which was still €280, an expensive mechanical!

This is why I don’t or won’t have D12 as I honestly could afford to replace parts at those prices. That said I’ve never used it so it’s an easy choice for me to make.

iwillhtfu

at1withmyself wrote: »

Have Di2 on the good bike and yesterday morning made me seriously think about not getting it again when the rear derailleur got mangled in the back wheel. Broke the derailleur and rear hanger so at ~€550 for a new one I quickly downgraded to Ultegra which was still €280, an expensive mechanical!

Very rare for that to happen particularly with Di2 as it's preconfigured electrically so the design shouldn't allow it to over shift. Did you crash or bend the derailleur on something? If nothing out of the norm I'd be querying it.

at1withmyself

iwillhtfu wrote: »

Very rare for that to happen particularly with Di2 as it's preconfigured electrically so the design shouldn't allow it to over shift. Did you crash or bend the derailleur on something? If nothing out of the norm I'd be querying it.

Sorry, yep bike had a fall a few weeks ago and forgot to check so once I went into the easiest gear it all went pear shaped! My fault for not checking it.

iwillhtfu

at1withmyself wrote: »

Sorry, yep bike had a fall a few weeks ago and forgot to check so once I went into the easiest gear it all went pear shaped! My fault for not checking it.

Ah bummer, easy happen though.

nqtfarmer

Weepsie wrote: »

Concentrate on bike handling and when groups are allowed cycling in a bunch. Otherwise don't jump into racing

No won’t jump into racing straight away. Used to cycling in groups as it was the cross training got me into cycling with groups locally. I can see the benefit of power meter if you’re up there but once lockdown ends I hope to get back with groups

ednwireland

i dont miss hammering out cotter pins

Large bottle small glass

ednwireland wrote: »

i dont miss hammering out cotter pins

I'd take it over the sh1te that is push fit BB!

Was out today for first decent spin in a while on my Genesis Equilibrium, 7800 groupset, exposed cables, threaded BB, robust wheels, nice tyres.

Simple reliable and nice to ride.

Have zero desire to over complicate that.

On the Caad 10, a friend and very occasional poster has 108k km and counting on one of them

fat bloke

Mate of mine has been a di2'er since it came out. 3 different bikes 3 different new ultegra groupsets. Virtually every winter has cost him a derailleur. Water ingress resulting in non-functioning shifting at the back.

No fix, no recourse except to shell out for a new one.

Had a couple of other shorting issues and loss of charge that resulted in some aborted spins over the years too.

Mechanical all the way for me.

07Lapierre

As a friend of mine once said... “a bicycle shouldn’t need batteries to work”

work

Have a decent belt drive bike for my commute but kept the old chain bike and sadly every time I use the old bike its so much more responsive.
Sad really as I love the idea of a belt.

joey100

I love my di2. Have had the second generation since it came out, about 6/7 years now and it's never had an issue. Have gone back and forward to mechanical and Di2 over the years but all bikes on it now. New mechanical stuff is very good, but just prefer the hoods of the di2 shifters, I only have small hands though and find the mechanical ones bulky.

I thought about maybe going back simple, mechanical for a winter bike but if anything that's a better bike to put di2 onto. Much and grime won't mess up the shifting, no cables to get seized, set it once at set up and it's done. Just charge the battery every now and again and no issues.

Seaswimmer

nomdeboardie wrote: »

I'd have to say I've been disappointed by indexed gears, and the later integrated shifter-brakes (brifters) development

Well I think once you go above 5 or 6 speed you need indexed gears. I tried a non indexed down tube lever for a 9 speed once and the tolerances were just too fine to get into every gear correctly and stay there consistently.
But I take your point. I always liked the clunking and clicking in the old days as you fumbled for the correct gear. But after a while it became second nature.

Tenzor07

Defo on for simpler bikes, though some stuff definitely adds to the experience such as Disc brakes that work much better when it rains out and stops quicker than rim brakes.
Tubeless tyres are great too, gets you home without having to stop and fit a tube...
Electronic gears...nice to have, same as wireless...just more things to go wrong and maintain.


Electrically assisted bikes? They have a place for Commuters and cargo bikes for couriers etc. But for MTB and Road they're good if you have a medical condition, joint issues etc.

However a Bicycle shouldn't have a motor.

fat bloke

Tenzor07 wrote: »

Tubeless tyres ..... leave you stranded because you can't stop and fit a tube...

I'd agree with your post except for that bit!

Tenzor07

fat bloke wrote: »

I'd agree with your post except for that bit!

Ah the Tubeless has saved me a couple of times on the Road bike, but absolutely 100% essential on a MTB, that and tyre plugs...

km991148

I tend to just think about what I actually need.

Last good bike I wanted good frame, wheelset and disc brakes. The rest I'm perfectly happy with mechanical 105 and tubes in the tyres (although I might change that and risk cycling with even less stuff).

I might buy a touring bike next and for that I won't be bothered about rim Vs disc and be focusing on panniers support and comfort.

Next commuter (if we ever commute!) will most likely be single speed.

The money saved on Di2 is a good %age of the cost of my next bike and I see a lot more value in that than being able to configure some buttons for a system I will forget to charge at some point..

nomdeboardie

Seaswimmer wrote: »

Well I think once you go above 5 or 6 speed you need indexed gears. I tried a non indexed down tube lever for a 9 speed once and the tolerances were just too fine to get into every gear correctly and stay there consistently.
But I take your point. I always liked the clunking and clicking in the old days as you fumbled for the correct gear. But after a while it became second nature.

Ah, just realised/remembered your reference to indexing was only for the front. That's interesting re derailleur rub, something that mildly plagues me

The rear downtube shifter on my previous bike had an option to turn indexing on and off, and I eventually just defaulted to off - can't remember how many cogs, though. I've never had much luck keeping the indexed systems working smoothly for all shifts, and when bike shop mechanics have a go the end result is never perfect either...easy enough to get things OK on a stand, but niggles always arise at some point on the road.

CantGetNoSleep

Thanks for all the replies - didn't go for the CAAD10 in the end but having regrets now. If I was a betting man, I'd bet that I'll have a CAAD12 by the summer though.