Raleigh Kellogg's Pro Tour

8valve

If you're as old as me, you'll remember the pro peloton whizzing around the streets of Cork and Dublin, in Kellogg's sponsored criterium races, with Kelly & Roche at their peak. Raleigh brought these out at the time, probably because some lad on a committee in Nottingham thought it would be a good way to cash in. Or maybe he liked making new bicycles.


Original late 80's Raleigh Kellogg's Pro tour.

23.5 inch frame, cos we rode 'em tall, back then, son.

Reynolds 501 frame tubes.
Original Shimano, Sachs Huret, Weinmann components, all in good working order.

Original Paintwork and Decals in very good condition.
New bartape, cables, housing, Michelin tyres, tubes, chain and I've added some nice quill pedals and a patinated period correct Turbo saddle, for extra retro coolness.
Bike was stripped, cleaned, polished, serviced and rebuilt.
Ready to ride; relive your youth and be the coolest kid on your block, sprinting for the lamppost finish line, everywhere you go.


€250, please and thank you.


I'm in Waterford. Delivery possible, within reason.

fat bloke

That's cool!

What's that in a modern size? Over 60?

8valve

59.... I think!!

ARX

Hello 8valve,

Long time lurker on the cycling forum, first time poster.

I'm interested in this and can offer the asking price. I have a few questions if that's ok.

1. What is the standover height? I'm 184 cm tall with an 87 cm inside leg so I think this bike would fit.

2. It looks like there are a couple of rust spots on the right-hand fork leg and above the BB shell (seen through the chainring). Do you think it would be feasible to touch these up or would they be better left alone?

3. Does the seatpost move freely in the seat tube (i.e. not seized)?

4. There seems to be some rust on the chainrings. Would something like Autosol clean these up?

5. Is the rear dropout spacing 126 mm or 130 mm (or something else)?

6. Are the bearings (hubs, BB, headset) in good order?

7. I'm fairly handy with modern bikes but have no experience of working on older ones. Is it generally easy to get parts such as a crankset or brakes (either "period-appropriate" or modern parts that will fit)? I'm not a stickler for authenticity so I might do things like replace the drivetrain with something modern at some point, or I might keep it as close to original as possible, I don't know yet.

I'm in Dublin so wouldn't be able to collect this until restrictions are lifted.

8valve

ARX wrote: »

Hello 8valve,

Long time lurker on the cycling forum, first time poster.

I'm interested in this and can offer the asking price. I have a few questions if that's ok.

1. What is the standover height? I'm 184 cm tall with an 87 cm inside leg so I think this bike would fit.
2. It looks like there are a couple of rust spots on the right-hand fork leg and above the BB shell (seen through the chainring). Do you think it would be feasible to touch these up or would they be better left alone?

3. Does the seatpost move freely in the seat tube (i.e. not seized)?

4. There seems to be some rust on the chainrings. Would something like Autosol clean these up?

5. Is the rear dropout spacing 126 mm or 130 mm (or something else)?

6. Are the bearings (hubs, BB, headset) in good order?

7. I'm fairly handy with modern bikes but have no experience of working on older ones. Is it generally easy to get parts such as a crankset or brakes (either "period-appropriate" or modern parts that will fit)? I'm not a stickler for authenticity so I might do things like replace the drivetrain with something modern at some point, or I might keep it as close to original as possible, I don't know yet.

I'm in Dublin so wouldn't be able to collect this until restrictions are lifted.

No problem at all, ARX; see answers below.


1. What is the standover height? I'm 184 cm tall with an 87 cm inside leg so I think this bike would fit. We are the same height, with identical measurements, and it fits me perfectly, so it will fit you, no problem.

2. It looks like there are a couple of rust spots on the right-hand fork leg and above the BB shell (seen through the chainring). Do you think it would be feasible to touch these up or would they be better left alone? I checked these when I was deciding what level of sympathetic restoration to carry out and they are perfectly fine; the majority of the original paint was in such good condition that I left it as is, not to detract from its originality and character.. If you wanted to coat them with clear nail varnish, that will seal them to give you peace of mind. They in no way affect the structural integrity of the bike. Raleigh never skimped on the quality of their steel and their frames are fairly bombproof.

3. Does the seatpost move freely in the seat tube (i.e. not seized)? Seatpost is moving freely, with no issues.

4. There seems to be some rust on the chainrings. Would something like Autosol clean these up? Autosol on an old toothbrush will clean these perfectly.

5. Is the rear dropout spacing 126 mm or 130 mm (or something else)? 126mm; screw-on original freewheel.

6. Are the bearings (hubs, BB, headset) in good order? All bearings are greased, turning smoothly with no issues.

7. I'm fairly handy with modern bikes but have no experience of working on older ones. Is it generally easy to get parts such as a crankset or brakes (either "period-appropriate" or modern parts that will fit)? I'm not a stickler for authenticity so I might do things like replace the drivetrain with something modern at some point, or I might keep it as close to original as possible, I don't know yet. Converting it to a modern drivetrain is a popular modification to classic frames like these; this is called ''neo-retro'' and I've done quite a few Raleighs and other makes; they are a standard 68mm BB shell, standard British thread, so modern drive-train components can be fitted easily, and are very easy to cold-set out from 126mm to 130mm, if you wanted to use more modern, freehub/cassette equipped wheels.

I'm in Dublin so wouldn't be able to collect this until restrictions are lifted.
That's no problem at all; I'm working as a bike mechanic, which is classed as an essential service; I occasionally have to do collection/delivery to Dublin. I can bring it in the van and can deliver the bike to you in a socially-distant compliant manner, if that suits.

Any other questions, feel free to ask; I restore every bike to the standard that I would expect, so that I can cycle them enjoyably, and more importantly, safely. It's a nice example to get into the vintage bike scene....but be warned, it is a slippery slope and you'll have a shed full in a couple of years! :-)

8valve

Addendum to answer 7: yes, period correct parts are also easily sourced.

ARX

Thanks for the rapid and comprehensive answer!

I am happy to go ahead with this and take delivery whenever is convenient for you. There's no hurry. I can pay in advance by bank transfer or PayPal, or give you cash on delivery, whichever you prefer.

Two more questions:

1. Would it be a straight swap (without cold-setting the frame) to replace the existing freewheel (which looks like a 6-speed) with either a 7-speed, an 8-speed or a larger-range 6-speed? (Like the ones listed on SJS cycles - I can't post the link because I'm a new user). Or are there compatibility issues? I suppose if I want lower gearing for the hills I could fit a smaller inner chainring.

2. Are the calipers compatible with modern brake pads?

I bought one of these from Joe Daly a few (ahem) years ago and it went to Germany with me. I sold it there and for all I know it's still running around! So this will be a trip down memory lane.

8valve

ARX wrote: »

Thanks for the rapid and comprehensive answer!

I am happy to go ahead with this and take delivery whenever is convenient for you. There's no hurry. I can pay in advance by bank transfer or PayPal, or give you cash on delivery, whichever you prefer.

Two more questions:

1. Would it be a straight swap (without cold-setting the frame) to replace the existing freewheel (which looks like a 6-speed) with either a 7-speed, an 8-speed or a larger-range 6-speed? (Like the ones listed on SJS cycles - I can't post the link because I'm a new user). Or are there compatibility issues? I suppose if I want lower gearing for the hills I could fit a smaller inner chainring.

2. Are the calipers compatible with modern brake pads?

I bought one of these from Joe Daly a few (ahem) years ago and it went to Germany with me. I sold it there and for all I know it's still running around! So this will be a trip down memory lane.

No problem at; happy to see it go to a good home. I'll keep in touch and let you know when I'll be up your way in the next week or two.


1. Would it be a straight swap (without cold-setting the frame) to replace the existing freewheel (which looks like a 6-speed) with either a 7-speed, an 8-speed or a larger-range 6-speed? (Like the ones listed on SJS cycles - I can't post the link because I'm a new user). Or are there compatibility issues? I suppose if I want lower gearing for the hills I could fit a smaller inner chainring. I'd suggest leaving the inner chainring as is and maybe fit a 6 speed freewheel with a larger 1st (easiest) sprocket for the hills, coupled with a long cage rear mech (literally any rear mech will work fine as the gear levers are friction, not indexed). Adding a 7 or 8 speed freewheel means messing around with axle spacers which can be a bit of a pain. Just my two cents.

2. Are the calipers compatible with modern brake pads? Yes, totally compatible with any modern brake pads designed for use with alloy rims.

endacl

Nice buy ARX. Well wear.

I'd have bargained down a tenner though, for a period-appropriate pair of toe clips.

ARX

Thanks! Pity I can't make myself period-appropriate though!

endacl wrote: »

Nice buy ARX. Well wear.

I'd have bargained down a tenner though, for a period-appropriate pair of toe clips.

8valve

endacl wrote: »

Nice buy ARX. Well wear.

I'd have bargained down a tenner though, for a period-appropriate pair of toe clips.

Fair enough.... I'll root out a pair of toe clips for you....but you can polish them up yourself 😁

T-Maxx

Enjoyed this thread altogether thanks! Lovely bit of retro bike porn!

ARX

I'm already going down the "slippery slope" mentioned by 8valve ... I bought a 126mm Shimano RSX FH-410 rear hub that takes a 7-speed cassette on eBay (now I just have to learn to build wheels) and am looking at other lovely vintage bikes.

T-Maxx wrote: »

Enjoyed this thread altogether thanks! Lovely bit of retro bike porn!

8valve

@ARX I'm in Dublin tomorrow. PM me.

ARX

8valve wrote: »

@ARX I'm in Dublin tomorrow. PM me.

PM sent.

8valve

SOLD. Mods please close.