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Building a block shed

  • 14-01-2021 11:07pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 61 ✭✭


    Hi folks,
    I am keen to start building a shed in the next few weeks. I have 2 sheds in the garden for storing supplies for work so I want to match the new shed to look the same. The size will be 4m X 4m. It's going to be a pitched roof. The height is 2.2m at the gable end and 3m at the top.
    The previous shed we built (my dad built it when I was a kid) was with cavity blocks, wooden frame roof with tiles, so I would do the same this time.
    I want to add a double door approx 2m X 2m and 2 Windows 1m x 1m. Also the back wall is going to be mostly encorporating an existing garden wall that is 2m high. This is the way the previous shed was built and it's still standing....:)
    I'm looking for some help in estimating the materials I would need and some advice on how deep and wide to dig the foundations, what is recommended for a slab floor.

    Im pretty handy and have taken on a lot of DIY projects in the past but never a shed like this, if you can recommend some good website for block laying, laying foundations, etc that would be great. I'm confident I can do it but I need the help to get started!
    Please let me know if you need more info.
    Thanks in advance


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,667 ✭✭✭policarp


    Usually garden walls wouldn't be suitable. They don't have a DPC and most likely not sufficient foundation. Also it could protrude into your neighbours property.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 61 ✭✭Murray13


    Thanks for the reply.
    I've posted a few pics below of the existing shed and where it intersects with the wall (back wall of the shed). The wall isn't a boundary wall and won't protrude into the neighbours. The wall is about 2m high so there isn't that much extra height to add on. It's a pretty substantial wall, probably 6 inches thick.
    I'm not too worried about damp as it's not an issue in the existing shed.
    I don't want to build inside the wall as I would lose a lot of space in the shed.
    Let me know what you think...
    https://ibb.co/swkyNjn
    https://ibb.co/Yd4TPds


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,218 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    Murray13 wrote: »
    I have 2 sheds in the garden for storing supplies for work so I want to match the new shed to look the same. The size will be 4m X 4m

    Are you saying you are going to add a third 16sqm shed when you have 2 sheds already?

    You know that the total floor area of all sheds combined has to be under 25sqm unless you're going for planning permission?

    Sorry for obvious questions, I'm sure you know this already.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,881 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    Unless you own the land on the other side, then that is a boundary wall and the existing shed wall is partly in the adjoining property.

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 61 ✭✭Murray13


    Yes we own the property on the other side of the wall so that wouldn't be an issue.
    Cheers!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 61 ✭✭Murray13


    Does anyone have advice on depth and width of foundations? Can you recommend any website that teach the basics of block laying, roofing, etc...


  • Posts: 7,499 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    You tube for block laying.
    It's actually fairy handy once you get the first row in level.

    Best brickie is a good YouTube channel.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 249 ✭✭champchamp


    What are you going to use the shed for?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 61 ✭✭Murray13


    Storage for cleaning supplies, cloths, toilet paper, etc...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 249 ✭✭champchamp


    If you have no plans to do work in it (i.e. a workshop, home office, man cave, gym, home bar etc) then you should be fine.
    However, if you are ever going to be using it for any of the above then you should go the extra bit now and do it right - 4" blocks x 2 with insulation between, proper foundations with DPC etc - you'll be glad you did in the long run...


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,216 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    champchamp wrote: »
    If you have no plans to do work in it (i.e. a workshop, home office, man cave, gym, home bar etc) then you should be fine.
    However, if you are ever going to be using it for any of the above then you should go the extra bit now and do it right - 4" blocks x 2 with insulation between, proper foundations with DPC etc - you'll be glad you did in the long run...

    I don't why anyone would build an actual block shed at all without this being a consideration. What's the point in block if you don't start with this. Just get one of those metal yolks and be done with it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 249 ✭✭champchamp


    listermint wrote: »
    I don't why anyone would build an actual block shed at all without this being a consideration. What's the point in block if you don't start with this. Just get one of those metal yolks and be done with it.

    Yes, I agree. However a lot of us learn by our mistakes :D
    I started out with a cheap metal shed - useless.
    Then I built a beeze block shed - better than the metal shed but still damp as anything and not a place you'd want to be at this time of the year.
    Went OTT during the last 2 years and build a proper workshop.
    Best thing I ever did and that's why I'd recommend to anyone to spend the money and do it right from day one, even if it takes a couple of years to get it done - if you split the cost of it over the next 20 years it's a cheap build for what you're getting...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,116 ✭✭✭✭Seve OB


    By Breeze blocks do you mean something like these
    https://brooksonline.ie/7.5n-cavity-block-440mm-x-215mm-x-215mm-ue2489


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,218 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    The "breeze" in breeze blocks comes from the French braise, and refers to the ashes used as the aggregate.

    It has nothing to do with whether they're hollow or not, since breeze blocks are solid but low density.

    The confusion comes because both breeze blocks and hollow blocks are lighter weight and less suitable for load carrying. Hollow blocks have a cavity, but cavity walls are made of solid blocks, usually on edge.

    At least that's my understanding. The inability of the construction industry to pick unambiguous terms and use them consistently is a deliberate tactic to annoy right thinking pedants.

    Don't get me started on "slabs" and "screwguns".


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 249 ✭✭champchamp


    Seve OB wrote: »
    By Breeze blocks do you mean something like these
    https://brooksonline.ie/7.5n-cavity-block-440mm-x-215mm-x-215mm-ue2489

    Yes, cavity blocks.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,749 ✭✭✭LillySV


    Lads im considering getting a shed done down back of my house...probably build to the max im allowed without planning permission...so 5*5 mitres or something like that....would it be sufficient to use 6" blocks for the wall...builder reckons its be fine...probably use cladding for roof ..have one wall a brick shorter to have an angle to let water off....would that work? Im not planning on living on it..but at same time i want it dry enough for motorbike...would that do?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 559 ✭✭✭Fine Cheers


    You might get more replies if you start a new thread. Are you going to plaster the outer face of wall ? I trust you are going with proper concrete foundation and floor slab ? For me 215mm hollow block would be better. Less cold bridging. Any plans to insulate ? On the roof pitch you suggest 1 block in height difference. This is 215mm over 5m which equates to around 2.5 degrees which I doubt is enough for any roof cladding - assuming you are doing a mono pitch roof ie one gutter on low side and entire roof falls in one direction.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,749 ✭✭✭LillySV


    You might get more replies if you start a new thread. Are you going to plaster the outer face of wall ? I trust you are going with proper concrete foundation and floor slab ? For me 215mm hollow block would be better. Less cold bridging. Any plans to insulate ? On the roof pitch you suggest 1 block in height difference. This is 215mm over 5m which equates to around 2.5 degrees which I doubt is enough for any roof cladding - assuming you are doing a mono pitch roof ie one gutter on low side and entire roof falls in one direction.

    Wasn’t planning to but brother reckons I should … think he said less chance of dampness ?? I don’t really know much about building … it’s the one area I’ve never worked in… yea concrete foundation and slab . When u say less cold bridging what ya mean ?


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