New derailleur hanger or realign existing one?

Galego

Hi,
Just looking for a bit of advise here and what others would do in this case.

My derailleur hanger took a crash and got bent which means shifting isn't great at the moment.
So my doubt is either:

1- Buy a new one online - 15eur
2- Buy the realignment tool and realign it myself - 30eur
3- Take it to a shop for them to realign it - no idea

Number 3 is my least favorite option as I live nowhere near any bike shop.

Note: bike is an aluminum frame.

magicbastarder

how much is a new one?

Fann Linn

I bought a RD for less than €30 in CSS last week.

Galego

magicbastarder wrote: »

how much is a new one?

15eur for new hanger
30eur for realignment tool

Bikeshop fee to realign the hanger - no idea

Galego

Fann Linn wrote: »

I bought a RD for less than €30 in CSS last week.

The tool to realign the hanger or a Read Derailleur?

If the tool, how did it get on realigning the hanger?

Mefistofelino

If the crash was sufficiently hard, the dropout itself could be bent and not just the hanger. The problem with the hanger realignment tools is that they give you a lot of leverage and its quite easy to crack the hanger (and possibly the dropout, esp on an aluminium frame) if you're not used to them.

The simplest thing is just replace the hanger and see if that fully resolves matters. If that doesn't work, I'd be inclined to find a bike shop as the next step.

Fann Linn

Galego wrote: »

The tool to realign the hanger or a Read Derailleur?

If the tool, how did it get on realigning the hanger?

Sorry, crossed wires. I bought the rear cage,

crosswords

Place Bike in workstand.

Remove derailleur, leaving the rear wheel attached.

Insert narrow hex key into eyelet of hanger.

Gently persuade it (bend it) back into place, usually into a 90 degree angle from floor.

Job done.

Type 17

How bent is the hanger? (pics please)

If it's only a few degrees, it can usually be bent back by inserting a longish Allen key into the bolt of the derailleur and trying increasing amounts of torque to get a feel for how much leverage is required. Bear in mind that it may need tweaking in more than one direction. Only do the minimum amount, as every movement brings it closer to weakening and/or failure.

If it is more than a few degrees bent, and/or there is any "crazing" of the surface at the bend (micro-cracking, indicating that the metal has exceeded its stretchiness, and has begun to break up), then it should be replaced - if it breaks in use, the derailleur will probably go into the wheel, with expensive results.

Peterx

I went with option two - the Hanger Alignment Tool.

I think if you have a couple of different bikes to look after it's justifiable as the hanger can often only need a minor adjustment.

On the hills after a spill I have used the 5mm Allen Key into the (still in place) mech and got it working OK again but when checked later with the alignment tool there was more to adjust so it's not as good a solution.

As the other lads have pointed out, you want be going with small incremental adjustments as it's easy enough to snap the hangar.

Galego

Type 17 wrote: »

How bent is the hanger? (pics please)

If it's only a few degrees, it can usually be bent back by inserting a longish Allen key into the bolt of the derailleur and trying increasing amounts of torque to get a feel for how much leverage is required. Bear in mind that it may need tweaking in more than one direction. Only do the minimum amount, as every movement brings it closer to weakening and/or failure.

If it is more than a few degrees bent, and/or there is any "crazing" of the surface at the bend (micro-cracking, indicating that the metal has exceeded its stretchiness, and has begun to break up), then it should be replaced - if it breaks in use, the derailleur will probably go into the wheel, with expensive results.

What'd you think? How bad does it look?

https://ibb.co/TTMHbkW
https://ibb.co/Xz1HSL7
https://ibb.co/289h0LD

Type 17

Looks fine - can't see the crookedness in the picture (which is normal, unless it's really bad).

Good side: you won't need a new hanger this time.

Bad side: given that it's a ten-speed, and you're noticing issues, setting it by eye with an Allen key isn't going to cut it - time to visit your LBS or buy an alignment tool.

Given that your LBS isn't close, and a tool will take ages to arrive, you could also try re-indexing your derailleur until the tool arrives - take a look at Park Tool's YouTube videos if you're not familiar (pay attention to the L-limit screw bit if your hanger's bent - you don't want the derailleur in the spokes).

Explosive_Cornflake

Adjustment looks a bit off to me.

If you can take the chain off, do. Makes it easier to align. Chain is a bit dry looking also, but that's minor.

Galego

Explosive_Cornflake wrote: »

Adjustment looks a bit off to me.

If you can take the chain off, do. Makes it easier to align. Chain is a bit dry looking also, but that's minor.

I cant get the RD to shift correctly. It can either switch smoothly up or down but cant get both to shift smoothly.

I was confident it had to do with the hanger but now I am having my doubts.

Yes I cleaned the chain this morning and need to re-lube it yet.

Type 17

Galego wrote: »

I cant get the RD to shift correctly. It can either switch smoothly up or down but cant get both to shift smoothly.

I was confident it had to do with the hanger but now I am having my doubts.

Yes I cleaned the chain this morning and need to re-lube it yet.

That sounds more like a dirty cable.

Galego

Type 17 wrote: »

That sounds more like a dirty cable.

I put a brand new cable and yet got the second results. The shifter moves the RD up and down so the shifter does seem to do its job. Also replaced the housing cables.

I got myself a second hand RD to test (I havent received it yet) if it could be it but I've serviced the RD and seemed fine on my eyes.

Cassette seems ok too and have tested it with a brand new cassette and yet cant get it right.

I've indexed other bikes but I cant figure this one out.

Type 17

Firstly, open the B-angle screw all the way, so the silver clip that it's threaded through touches the hanger (doesn't look optimal in the pics).

This will lift the top jockey wheel closer to the cassette. You'd be surprised how much difference this can make.

Also, check the details in this video - Park Tool - advanced rear derailleur troubleshooting