How to thin out copper sheet

cheif kaiser

I have some copper sheet that I need to be a specific thickness to use as inlay.

The pieces I will be using will be no more that an inch wide x 3 or 4 inches long.

Does anyone have any ideas how to thin 3mm copper down to around 2mm whilst keeping it smooth?

I have looked at rolling mills but the prices of them are shocking, starting at maybe €200 upwards.

As I'm only using narrow pieces, I don't really want to spend that type of money and wondered if anyone knew of an alternative method?

Thanks!

cruizer101

Can you not just buy 2mm copper or do you mean you need it thicker but around that thickness.

I think roller mill is your only way if you want a specific thickness.
How much are you looking for, could you go to fabricators somewhere and get them to do it for you.

Rather than change the size of the copper can you change the depth of the inlay hole, or add something else in to make up some of the thickness.

grayzer75

Give Healy's a buzz - they might be able to point you in the right direct:

http://www.jameshealy.ie/index.htm

daveville30

It be easier just to get 2mm copper somewhere.if you really
Wanted to have a go sandwich it between 2 stainless plates and use a press or bottle jack

cheif kaiser

It’s not only copper that I have, it’s also brass and aluminium.

I don’t really want to buy anymore as some can be fairly expensive.

I also require it to be different thicknesses which are specific to what I’m doing so some needs to be 2.2mm and some 1.9mm, etc.

Most of the thickness will be dependant on the thickness of the kerf of the blades I’m using.

daveville30

What exactly are you doing inlays for what?

cheif kaiser

daveville30 wrote: »

What exactly are you doing inlays for what?

Ah it’s just a project I have in my head. I want to create a design in wood and then turn it on the lathe. In order for the design to match up, the metal has to be the same thickness as the kerf on my bandsaw blade.

Other ideas I have involve my scroll saw blade, etc.

cheif kaiser

All is good thanks all.

I found this exact one https://www.amazon.de/-/en/rolling-resistance-combination-jewellery-tableting/dp/B083QYNGS3 on Banggood for €159

The Continental Op

Don't forget that once you have rolled your piece thinner it will be wider and longer so your cutting to size will have to be done after rolling.

Apologies if thats a little too obvious

cheif kaiser

The Continental Op wrote: »

Don't forget that once you have rolled your piece thinner it will be wider and longer so your cutting to size will have to be done after rolling.

Apologies if thats a little too obvious

Not at all! Sometimes what seems like the obvious slips your mind when doing something complicated and it’s a complete f**k it, moment

All advise much appreciated

CJhaughey

Copper work hardens so if you work it a lot it can get very hard and hard to work.
The solution is to anneal it with heat, get it red hot and either throw it in cold water or let it cool.
Both will make it soft and easily worked again.

cheif kaiser

CJhaughey wrote: »

Copper work hardens so if you work it a lot it can get very hard and hard to work.
The solution is to anneal it with heat, get it red hot and either throw it in cold water or let it cool.
Both will make it soft and easily worked again.

Great tip Thanks a mill, I’ll definitely do that!

GrumpyMe

cheif kaiser wrote: »

Great tip Thanks a mill, I’ll definitely do that!

Ha! I see what you did there...:D

Lumen

cheif kaiser wrote: »

It’s not only copper that I have, it’s also brass and aluminium.

I don’t really want to buy anymore as some can be fairly expensive.

I also require it to be different thicknesses which are specific to what I’m doing so some needs to be 2.2mm and some 1.9mm, etc.

Most of the thickness will be dependant on the thickness of the kerf of the blades I’m using.

I'm sure you know what you're doing, but it seems like varying the thickness of the wood (by routing, sanding, latheing or whatever) is going to be a load easier than varying the thickness of the metal.

cheif kaiser

Lumen wrote: »

I'm sure you know what you're doing, but it seems like varying the thickness of the wood (by routing, sanding, latheing or whatever) is going to be a load easier than varying the thickness of the metal.

.

Yes, it would seem that way but when you inlaying metal to turn, for example, a Celtic knot. It is important to only replace the timber that you are removing, otherwise the design does not line up correctly.

I know this from experience of messing up a few practice pieces.

I now want to make the design more elaborate so important to do it correctly.

cheif kaiser

A simple pen I did some time ago in bog
oak and brass.