Advice wantedon disc mower type.

Castlekeeper

Happy new year to all, my 20 year old disc mower is too shook to face into another year with and I'm going to upgrade. I would like a few pointers on what to buy. Should I go belt or shaft driven, off set or centre pivot? Top marque or lower level brand?
I'll be cutting everything, topping, rushes, about 50 acres of silage for bales, including some second and third cut. I also sowed some red clover last year so I'd like to be able to cut evenly at 7-8cm, which is a major reason I want to change, it's a challenge to get a contractor to do this and to cut at right time for a good wilt. For the same reason I don't need a conditioner.
All comments appreciated.

Ps. I don't have stony or rough ground,
I have a fresh 95hp tractor and I would be thinking of running a 9ft.

Who2

Krone centre pivot. There’s no other mower to consider.

148multi

Is your tractor heavy enough for a centre pivot 9'.

Reggie.

Who2 wrote: »

Krone centre pivot. There’s no other mower to consider.

Except the price. I would pass malone without a consideration.

Kronos prices are mental for spare parts. Alot to be said for heading up to mayo for any parts needed in a hurry some night as opposed to waiting for them to be delivered from germany.

I bought my trailed procut last year for nearly 4k cheaper than s krone. Only difference is the safe cut system that krone keep badgering on about.

Dont like it myself as when you investigate the bed there is only 1 tooth of the satellite gear touching the main gear of the bed, hence why the shear pin is needed.

The malone uses a comer bed. Its robust and cheap to replace if destroyed (less than half the cost of leading brands beds) plus I believe there's at least 3 ot 4 gear teeth in contact so all times. This makes a difference

dar31

148multi wrote: »

Is your tractor heavy enough for a centre pivot 9'.

Run a krone 9ft center pivot on a mf 4245 80hp, although it has the loader on all the time. Hilly ground but not rough. Just need some common sense as to how and where you trun.

dar31

Reggie. wrote: »

Except the price. I would pass malone without a consideration.

Kronos prices are mental for spare parts. Alot to be said for heading up to mayo for any parts needed in a hurry some night as opposed to waiting for them to be delivered from germany.

I bought my trailed procut last year for nearly 4k cheaper than s krone. Only difference is the safe cut system that krone keep badgering on about.

Dont like it myself as when you investigate the bed there is only 1 tooth of the satellite gear touching the main gear of the bed, hence why the shear pin is needed.

The malone uses a comer bed. Its robust and cheap to replace if destroyed (less than half the cost of leading brands beds) plus I believe there's at least 3 ot 4 gear teeth in contact so all times. This makes a difference

Done 4 seasons with krone, haven't touched it bar blades, never broke shear pin in bed yet.
Mow all the paddocks for bales to avoid letting contractor in and damaging his machine.
About 1000-1200 ac on it at this stage

Edit.
Only downside I see is it doesn't fold up directly behind tractor for traveling on road, newer one might now though.

raypallas

dar31 wrote: »

Done 4 seasons with krone, haven't touched it bar blades, never broke shear pin in bed yet.
Mow all the paddocks for bales to avoid letting contractor in and damaging his machine.
About 1000-1200 ac on it at this stage

Edit.
Only downside I see is it doesn't fold up directly behind tractor for traveling on road, newer one might now though.

You're spot on, the newer ones fold upto 100 degrees so fold slightly across the back now. Fine mower would recommend one, 9ft centre pivot no issues what's so ever.

Castlekeeper

Thanks for the feedback, I've a local man who does both Malone and Krone and I'll give him a shout.

mr.stonewall

Have an 8 ft krone and it's a great mower. A doddle on a 95hp landini. Does all topping and cutting for bales. On thing spent on it over the past 8 years is a few blades and a half dozen of studs for holding the blades on. Sheared a few over the years when removing with the impact gun. Shaft driven is a super job in a heavy crop.

weatherbyfoxer

running a kuhn 10'6 hd disc mower here we work it on a massey 5610 (105hp) no problems

Reggie.

dar31 wrote: »

Done 4 seasons with krone, haven't touched it bar blades, never broke shear pin in bed yet.
Mow all the paddocks for bales to avoid letting contractor in and damaging his machine.
About 1000-1200 ac on it at this stage

Edit.
Only downside I see is it doesn't fold up directly behind tractor for traveling on road, newer one might now though.

Not saying theres anything wrong with the krone just saying why pay more for no extra. You said it yourself you never had to ho near the pins so whats the point in paying extra for the safe cut when it's not needed

At this day and age, price and backup is more important than brand imo

Reggie.

raypallas wrote: »

You're spot on, the newer ones fold upto 100 degrees so fold slightly across the back now. Fine mower would recommend one, 9ft centre pivot no issues what's so ever.

Only the centre pivot ones fold up to 120 degrees cause of where they are connected.

Centre pivot only job for following the ground tho

hopeso

Reggie. wrote: »

Except the price. I would pass malone without a consideration.

Kronos prices are mental for spare parts. Alot to be said for heading up to mayo for any parts needed in a hurry some night as opposed to waiting for them to be delivered from germany.

I wonder if Malone's parts department has improved anything since I last visited? Probably the guts of 10 years ago at this stage. The smell of paint in it from the manufacturing plant would make you high, and they never even gave me a receipt for what I bought......

Reggie.

hopeso wrote: »

I wonder if Malone's parts department has improved anything since I last visited? Probably the guts of 10 years ago at this stage. The smell of paint in it from the manufacturing plant would make you high, and they never even gave me a receipt for what I bought......

No idea what the parts dept is like now but the new manufacturing lines are impressive. The parts shop was a little corner the last time I was up a few years ago.

I just find it handy if anything was to go in the mower I could have anything from a bolt to a bed in 2 hours drive from the yard at anytime. Lads are very friendly too and very approachable.

I get a call every few months to hear how the mower is going and have I any snags. Just saying I wouldnt pass any make these days as I find the main brands are skimping on metal every year.

I bought a mounted kv 2 years ago and where I was happy with it, it had very very light metal in it

Who2

Reggie. wrote: »

Except the price. I would pass malone without a consideration.

Kronos prices are mental for spare parts. Alot to be said for heading up to mayo for any parts needed in a hurry some night as opposed to waiting for them to be delivered from germany.

I bought my trailed procut last year for nearly 4k cheaper than s krone. Only difference is the safe cut system that krone keep badgering on about.

Dont like it myself as when you investigate the bed there is only 1 tooth of the satellite gear touching the main gear of the bed, hence why the shear pin is needed.

The malone uses a comer bed. Its robust and cheap to replace if destroyed (less than half the cost of leading brands beds) plus I believe there's at least 3 ot 4 gear teeth in contact so all times. This makes a difference

They are a completly different machine to the rest, they are seriously well made, balanced and shaft driven is ahuge plus compared to belt. Its a good job malone are local as from most of the mowers i seen issue with it was usually a malone. The main issue being the gearbox coming loose and doing damage. Its grand if you are inclined to check and keep everything 100% but i know personally i wont.

Grueller

I have a 9ft KV this 4 years. No conditioner. Between topping and mowing it has maybe 1000 acres on it trouble free. It is washed after EVERY use particularly topping as it is the life of them imo.
I change the oil in the bed and gearbox every season too.

cute geoge

Does the krone cut heavy crop well ,I am only wondering because the few places I have seen cut by my contractors krone were only tore ,The big M were no great shakes at mowing heavy crop either . In my book Krone a completely over rated mower .I heard the belt driven malone have similar problem mowing heavy crop ,would love to hear more about the shaft driven malone they seem robust but what about the cut .Some of the older kleverland were poor to mow as well but newer ones are good

Grueller

cute geoge wrote: »

Does the krone cut heavy crop well ,I am only wondering because the few places I have seen cut by my contractors krone were only tore ,The big M were no great shakes at mowing heavy crop either . In my book Krone a completely over rated mower .I heard the belt driven malone have similar problem mowing heavy crop ,would love to hear more about the shaft driven malone they seem robust but what about the cut .Some of the older kleverland were poor to mow as well but newer ones are good

Contractor here had krone triples and went away from them to Claas again after leaving them for krone previously.

jntsnk

Have a Krone 9 ft centre pivot. 2 yrs using it and very happy. Only point is , and this could be with every 9ft, when topping heavy grass, it can leave rows of grass . I know you can change the direction of the cutting discs. Has anyone done this?

https://www.krone-uk.com/english/products/mowers/rear-mounted-activemow/windrowing-or-spreading/

Reggie.

Who2 wrote: »

They are a completly different machine to the rest, they are seriously well made, balanced and shaft driven is ahuge plus compared to belt. Its a good job malone are local as from most of the mowers i seen issue with it was usually a malone. The main issue being the gearbox coming loose and doing damage. Its grand if you are inclined to check and keep everything 100% but i know personally i wont.

That issue with the gearbox has been sorted in the new mowers. Think that was just a bad batch. Know a 960c 3 years old with about 6000 acres on it. Gearbox still on it

Dont think the krone are built to the same standard the last few years. Most if the hood on their trailed nowadays are fabric. Cutting back on steel but add a 10% increase on price every year due to cost of steel.

raypallas

Reggie. wrote: »

Only the centre pivot ones fold up to 120 degrees cause of where they are connected.

Centre pivot only job for following the ground tho

Good man, thought twas 100. Fully agree on the centre pivot following the ground.

lab man

Reggie. wrote: »

Except the price. I would pass malone without a consideration.

Kronos prices are mental for spare parts. Alot to be said for heading up to mayo for any parts needed in a hurry some night as opposed to waiting for them to be delivered from germany.

I bought my trailed procut last year for nearly 4k cheaper than s krone. Only difference is the safe cut system that krone keep badgering on about.

Dont like it myself as when you investigate the bed there is only 1 tooth of the satellite gear touching the main gear of the bed, hence why the shear pin is needed.

The malone uses a comer bed. Its robust and cheap to replace if destroyed (less than half the cost of leading brands beds) plus I believe there's at least 3 ot 4 gear teeth in contact so all times. This makes a difference

Comer bed are not top repair if u do damage theres alot of ripping to be done

lab man

Reggie. wrote: »

That issue with the gearbox has been sorted in the new mowers. Think that was just a bad batch. Know a 960c 3 years old with about 6000 acres on it. Gearbox still on it

Dont think the krone are built to the same standard the last few years. Most if the hood on their trailed nowadays are fabric. Cutting back on steel but add a 10% increase on price every year due to cost of steel.

The main gearbox redens on the 960

Reggie.

lab man wrote: »

Comer bed are not top repair if u do damage theres alot of ripping to be done

I'd just replace it tbh if it was giving trouble

lab man

Reggie. wrote: »

I'd just replace it tbh if it was giving trouble

I dunno wat a bed would cost but going by a jd youd be talking up on 5k reggie

Reggie.

lab man wrote: »

I dunno wat a bed would cost but going by a jd youd be talking up on 5k reggie

Think its nearer 4k incl

Krone for kv are over 7k plus

adne

Would a 9ft be too big for a mf 5445 short bonnet

rs8

Have a 9 foot centre pivot krone mower , no conditioner!! Very happy with it cleans ground like nothing I've used before!! I can run it on our 90hp modern tractor in 540 economy... 1700 revs very efficient mowing!!

Neighbour has malone and doesn't cut near aswell and I've even went over to make sure it was set up right with new blades!!

In relation to another posters comment of a big m not cutting clean id defiantly say there's something wrong there or operator's to lazy to change blades!! I remember years ago on the john deere mowers 1365 you'd be dreading the taughts changing blades because there wernt quick release 🙉😅

Castlekeeper

rs8 wrote: »

Have a 9 foot centre pivot krone mower , no conditioner!! Very happy with it cleans ground like nothing I've used before!! I can run it on our 90hp modern tractor in 540 economy... 1700 revs very efficient mowing!!

Neighbour has malone and doesn't cut near aswell and I've even went over to make sure it was set up right with new blades!!

In relation to another posters comment of a big m not cutting clean id defiantly say there's something wrong there or operator's to lazy to change blades!! I remember years ago on the john deere mowers 1365 you'd be dreading the taughts changing blades because there wernt quick release 🙉😅

Sounds good, thanks, I'd say I'll be going for one soon, Malone is only in the 3m and would be heavier and not as easily driven I was advised by my dealer. It'll see me out I'd say, he says they were 10750 last year, hopefully they'll have gone down...
He ll trade my old Kv too at that.

Reggie.

Castlekeeper wrote: »

Sounds good, thanks, I'd say I'll be going for one soon, Malone is only in the 3m and would be heavier and not as easily driven I was advised by my dealer. It'll see me out I'd say, he says they were 10750 last year, hopefully they'll have gone down...
He ll trade my old Kv too at that.

Unfortunately machinery prices only go one way. Best of luck with whatever ya buy

minerleague

rs8 wrote: »

Have a 9 foot centre pivot krone mower , no conditioner!! Very happy with it cleans ground like nothing I've used before!! I can run it on our 90hp modern tractor in 540 economy... 1700 revs very efficient mowing!!

Neighbour has malone and doesn't cut near aswell and I've even went over to make sure it was set up right with new blades!!

In relation to another posters comment of a big m not cutting clean id defiantly say there's something wrong there or operator's to lazy to change blades!! I remember years ago on the john deere mowers 1365 you'd be dreading the taughts changing blades because there wernt quick release ����

Just be careful lower revs means higher torque, modern engines seem to be pushed to their limits already so say you hit a small heavy lodged bit of grass the engine torque could go quite high.

adne

I've it narrowed to krone or kverneland..

What's the thoughts?

orm0nd

adne wrote: »

I've it narrowed to krone or kverneland..

What's the thoughts?

My vote would be krone, a couple that I know of and the owners are happy. 1 guy wouldn't be a particularly careful about machinery.

Depends on where you get the best deal kverneland give good service although not as popular here locally.

All I know about malone is I saw a lot of second hand machines for sale with very little work done, don't know why but would make me suspicious.

raypallas

orm0nd wrote: »

My vote would be krone, a couple that I know of and the owners are happy. 1 guy wouldn't be a particularly careful about machinery.

Depends on where you get the best deal kverneland give good service although not as popular here locally.

All I know about malone is I saw a lot of second hand machines for sale with very little work done, don't know why but would make me suspicious.

Possibly that a lot of the Malone side mounted models were belt driven where other manufacturers probably moved away from belts to shaft driven driven beds a few yrs before Malone.

jimmy G M

adne wrote: »

I've it narrowed to krone or kverneland..

What's the thoughts?

We bought a new Krone 8ft cut around this time last year. At the time we were looking at Kverneland also and I think the Kverneland was a few €100 less.

In the end we went with Krone because we just thought it was a little stronger and better engineered, but the deciding factor was the quick change blade system that Krone had..Kverneland didn't have that on their 8ft mower at the time. It's so quick and easy compared to the bolt on blade system. Also the mower folds up beyond 90% so more stable and safer when being transported.

Have mowed around 200 acres inc 50 acres of meadow with the Krone last year and very happy with it. It is so easy to put on and take off. The legs are very stable and unlike disc mowers we had in the past the lift arms are level when putting the mower on.

Only thing to watch out for is with the quick change blade system, the blades sit slightly higher off the ground, so you need to shorten the toplink more than you would expect to cut cleanly. You will also need to be able to put the elevating ram into float position on your spool valve when cutting .

We would have ideally gone with the 9ft centre pull mower but couldn't justify the extra cost at the time (something around €2,500?). Maybe in a few years we might trade up. Incidentally, there's 2 smaller agri-contractors around here running centrepull, non conditioner 9ft krone mowers for their round bale operations.

rs8

adne wrote: »

I've it narrowed to krone or kverneland..

What's the thoughts?

What area are you in adne? If going krone get the legs to leave it folded up when not in use .. only takes up little more than a pallet space!!

I guess the dealer that your more happy with and will work with you if you have a breakdown etc

In regards of spares for krone .. if the dealer didn't have a bit farmhand up in clonee would have it ... massive stores!! Cant speak for kverneland

adne

rs8 wrote: »

What area are you in adne? If going krone get the legs to leave it folded up when not in use .. only takes up little more than a pallet space!!

I guess the dealer that your more happy with and will work with you if you have a breakdown etc

In regards of spares for krone .. if the dealer didn't have a bit farmhand up in clonee would have it ... massive stores!! Cant speak for kverneland

I'm in Sligo. A dealer not far from me for krone. Phillip Martins Machinery

farawaygrass

I bought a kuhn gmd 24 a couple of years ago. Cuts good but few snags on it. 1) when lifting the mower, the far end of the mower stays touching the ground so you have to lift the farm end with the hydraulics and put back to foist each time 2) would definitely go for quick change blades next time.
It cuts good though.
For people that have a conditioner mower and top grass also, can you disengage the conditioner or what way does it work?

ruwithme

farawaygrass wrote: »

I bought a kuhn gmd 24 a couple of years ago. Cuts good but few snags on it. 1) when lifting the mower, the far end of the mower stays touching the ground so you have to lift the farm end with the hydraulics and put back to foist each time 2) would definitely go for quick change blades next time.
It cuts good though.
For people that have a conditioner mower and top grass also, can you disengage the conditioner or what way does it work?

Next time you go mowing, keep your right lift arm screwed up higher than your left one.that you will find should help greatly when lifting on the arms.

Them gmd Kuhns are almost unbreakable.

White Clover

farawaygrass wrote: »

I bought a kuhn gmd 24 a couple of years ago. Cuts good but few snags on it. 1) when lifting the mower, the far end of the mower stays touching the ground so you have to lift the farm end with the hydraulics and put back to foist each time 2) would definitely go for quick change blades next time.
It cuts good though.
For people that have a conditioner mower and top grass also, can you disengage the conditioner or what way does it work?

When mowing, set your lift arm height and use the ram to lift the bed in and out of work. This is the way it should be done.
When you lower the bed into work put the spool into float and the mower will follow the ground better.

White Clover

ruwithme wrote: »

Next time you go mowing, keep your right lift arm screwed up higher than your left one.that you will find should help greatly when lifting on the arms.

Them gmd Kuhns are almost unbreakable.

Keep your arms level. Use the ram to lift the bed in and out of work.

ruwithme

White Clover wrote: »

Keep your arms level. Use the ram to lift the bed in and out of work.

??the bed end closest the tractor wouldn't be quite clear off the ground coming out on a headland,hence dragging at least somewhat across them swaths.

White Clover

ruwithme wrote: »

??the bed end closest the tractor wouldn't be quite clear off the ground coming out on a headland,hence dragging at least somewhat across them swaths.

Check the spring on the ram.
When you retract the lift ram a few inches, the tension on the spring causes the whole mower (bed and frame, belts etc) to pivot upwards so that the inner shoe is clear of the swarth.

Water John

If OP is cutting red clover and topping I would get the skids too. Bought a Krone last year, very happy with it. The skids have an optional shim also. I used both for topping and skids only for red clover. The man I bought it from had never sold the skids. A lot of guys speed up when they lift out of the swarth when they should actually slow down on the headland.
The other point is can you draw TAMS on it?

French Toast

adne wrote: »

I've it narrowed to krone or kverneland..

What's the thoughts?

Krone a great mower for taking abuse. Would rate them highly.

farawaygrass

White Clover wrote: »

Check the spring on the ram.
When you retract the lift ram a few inches, the tension on the spring causes the whole mower (bed and frame, belts etc) to pivot upwards so that the inner shoe is clear of the swarth.

I’ll try tighten the spring next time I have the mower on, but as ruwithme said, and I’d imagine myself, it will dig the shoe into the ground. I’ll try and see. Thanks

davidk1394

I have ran a few different makes before sticking with Krone. They are not the cheapest to buy and parts aren't cheap. I had a 8ft krone since 2013 and I bought a new 320 late in 2019 I then bought a 2015 front mower last year and I have a 2015 krone 280 center pivot.

Its after doing a lot of work and is still going strong. The safe cut system is a good job but sometimes it doesn't stop fully and you mightn't notice the roll pin broken unless you actually rock the disc to see if theres play in it.

The center pivot is a great job. The 280 is much better to follow the ground compared to the newer 320. The shaft going from the transfer box to the bed of the mower on the 320 has to be oiled regularly. The friction that's created when your dropping the mower slow down the bed hitting the ground nearest the tractor and you leave a skip. I only knew this after buying it. However it seems to be a common problem as the dealer knew the problem straight away.

jntsnk

Water John wrote: »

If OP is cutting red clover and topping I would get the skids too. Bought a Krone last year, very happy with it. The skids have an optional shim also. I used both for topping and skids only for red clover. The man I bought it from had never sold the skids. A lot of guys speed up when they lift out of the swarth when they should actually slow down on the headland.
The other point is can you draw TAMS on it?

When I bought my 9ft Krone , the dealer told me to stay away from skids as they will eventually crack the bed. Better leave the bed , flat level on the ground, he said.