Rear calipers

Lundstram

I've had a sticking caliper on the rear right of my car the last few days and I got a look at the caliper yesterday, the boot has twisted on the piston and I'm not sure if its still working, for comparison I checked the other side and its the same but that one isn't getting hot like the right side. I cleaned up and greased all the sllde pins and also the pads themselves. The brakes arent getting hot anymore but they're still not right but not getting hot.

I bought new pads and discs as they're not in good shape, should I change the calipers too?

Car is a 2012 MK4 Mondeo 2.0 Diesel.

Pics:

RobAMerc

why dont you take the cap of the fluid reservoir and try push the piston back in - if you can do, its likely not seized.

I've a few classics - they do sometimes seize and fee themselves up later if left standing a while, but I think its only going one way.

Lundstram

RobAMerc wrote: »

why dont you take the cap of the fluid reservoir and try push the piston back in - if you can do, its likely not seized.

I've a few classics - they do sometimes seize and fee themselves up later if left standing a while, but I think its only going one way.

I tried to but they wouldn't budge and I was afraid of trying too hard in case I broke a pipe off or some other damage. It's a wind in job and wasn't even sure what way it goes, clockwise or anti-clockwise.

greasepalm

Usually boot twists in winding back the piston possibly clockwise.Were the pads seized in carrier as if not replacement caliper is needed as its a factory job and easier.Most factors might do recon or new units as a common failure.

RobAMerc

yes, buy a new (to you) caliper then I'd say.
as far as I know motor factors will get you a recon one quick sharp for not huge money.
option B is find one at a breakers - but it might be no better than your own.

Lundstram

greasepalm wrote: »

Usually boot twists in winding back the piston possibly clockwise.Were the pads seized in carrier as if not replacement caliper is needed as its a factory job and easier.Most factors might do recon or new units as a common failure.

Pads were on shims which weren't in good shape so I removed the shims completely and cleaned and greased the carrier, much better fit now. Just the state of the calipers is worrying me. I might just replace both as they're only €65 each on MicksGarage.

Wouldn't bother buying a new caliper, remove it first and get the piston out. Re grease and see if that works which it probably will , would take you less time than a trip to the motor factors

RobAMerc

Raelynn Dry Senior wrote: »

Wouldn't bother buying a new caliper, remove it first and get the piston out. Re grease and see if that works which it probably will , would take you less time than a trip to the motor factors

as a short term fix yes, you'll be taking them off anyway so worth a try.
But calipers probably seized because they got water and or dirt in them, so the seals etc are shot - they will seize again fairly soon

greasepalm

I would not attempt to fix handbrake calipers as more hassle than worth it ,but have pumped out standard ones cleaned interior and under the ring and washed seal where all the crap is with hot water and fingernail,rubber greased it all and slid piston back straight with 2 hands and rebleed.system.

CJhaughey

The calipers I have rebuilt I used a blow torch to heat them up and dry them out, then when all the stuff inside is dry it is easy to scrape/pick it out or use a small dremel wirewheel to clean the grooves out, the grooves having corrosion inside is the main reason the piston sticks because of the diameter reducing inside the pot.
I apply red rubber grease to the groove and then refit the seals making sure the seals are correctly orientated.
The piston can be cleaned up with oil and 0000 steel wool, this leaves no scratches.
I haven't had any leaks when rebuilding calipers this way.

Lundstram

greasepalm wrote: »

I would not attempt to fix handbrake calipers as more hassle than worth it ,but have pumped out standard ones cleaned interior and under the ring and washed seal where all the crap is with hot water and fingernail,rubber greased it all and slid piston back straight with 2 hands and rebleed.system.

The rears do seem a lot more complicated for sure. With the weather and darkness I won't get time to recondition them so I've ordered two reconditioned ones off Amazon for €105 so I'll just replace them.

I'll keep the old ones and try fix them up and sell them on.

Thanks to all for the advice in the thread.

greasepalm

I would not buy your recon units as its a specif job with safety involved just to let you know as too many things can go wrong.