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Oil burner - clicking before cutting out

  • 26-12-2020 11:34am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,629 ✭✭✭


    I switched on the heating this morning and noticed no heat in radiators.

    I went out to it, saw that nothing was firing. Switched it off, came back an hour later after switching it back on and noticed a ticking noise for about a minute before it stops.

    The pipe from the boiler gets very hot, and the motorised valve is running. The clicking noise seems to be coming from the pipe rather than the boiler as far as i can hear.

    Any thoughts on what might going on? Possible air lock somewhere?

    We could live without oil heating, but we have a stove with a back boiler and dont want it having issues if there is something in the piping system.

    No chance if getting a plumber until next week at the earliest


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,974 ✭✭✭jimf


    is the boiler heating the rads


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,376 ✭✭✭Indestructable


    Is the pump working? Could be seized


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,629 ✭✭✭LowOdour


    jimf wrote: »
    is the boiler heating the rads

    It was until last night... But because it cuts out, nit heating anything now. Would it be a good idea to leave it running to see if it firea agai and starts heating?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,629 ✭✭✭LowOdour


    Is the pump working? Could be seized

    Sorry, i said motorised valve in my OP when im meant pump. Yes, i put my hand on the pump and seems to be working. Might double check it again. A seized pump requires replacing, or can it be un-seized?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,629 ✭✭✭LowOdour


    So, checked heating again... I can see that both the indoor pipes for both upstairs and downstairs zones are getting warm but nothing going to rads.

    Now, i left it going for 10 minutes and rads werent heating up so didn't risk leaving it on.

    Think ill decidie against putting the stove down for heat until tomorrow morning


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,974 ✭✭✭jimf


    sounds very much like your circulating pump is goosed

    or you are low in water if you have small tank in attic make sure it has water and that the ballcock isnt stuck

    im presuming as you said stove its a wet stove so your system is most likely open vented


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,629 ✭✭✭LowOdour


    jimf wrote: »
    sounds very much like your circulating pump is goosed

    or you are low in water if you have small tank in attic make sure it has water and that the ballcock isnt stuck

    im presuming as you said stove its a wet stove so your system is most likely open vented

    Are you saying the circulation pump at the oil boiler might be done for?

    There is a circulation pump for the stove back boiler as well..i presume its not that one? Would it be safe to put down a fire to check? Stove only heats upstairs zone.

    Will try and get into the attic tomorrow to see if it has water and ballcock is not stuck.

    Edited to ask - anything else that could possibly be checked?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,974 ✭✭✭jimf


    if the system is low in water i would be slow in lighting stove

    if you bleed an upstairs rad do you have water coming from it


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,629 ✭✭✭LowOdour


    jimf wrote: »
    if the system is low in water i would be slow in lighting stove

    if you bleed an upstairs rad do you have water coming from it

    I checked all the rads for air earlier, and water is coming out of them straight away so no air lock in any of them


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,974 ✭✭✭jimf


    turn down stat at boiler to lowest setting turn on boiler when it cuts out increase stat temp and see will boiler come on again

    if it does its most likely pump


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,623 ✭✭✭John.G


    LowOdour wrote: »
    Sorry, i said motorised valve in my OP when im meant pump. Yes, i put my hand on the pump and seems to be working. Might double check it again. A seized pump requires replacing, or can it be un-seized?

    If the pump has LEDs and control button(s) then it is electronically controlled and these pumps are very prone to "seizing". however, if you ensure the boiler and pump are switched off, shut the two pump isolating valves, remove the 4 (sometimes only 2) securing studs and carefully remove the pump head you can then clean the rotor and impeller and the inside of the pump casing, replace and you might be back in business.
    some Grundfos models installed in the past 4/5 years used to make this sound and were replaced FOC but unlikely to give refund now, still worth chancing a clean out though.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,629 ✭✭✭LowOdour


    jimf wrote: »
    turn down stat at boiler to lowest setting turn on boiler when it cuts out increase stat temp and see will boiler come on again

    if it does its most likely pump

    Cheers, thanks for your help.. will try that in the morning. Just to clarify, the pump is the pump at the boiler that could be the problem and not the stove pump at the hot water cylinder?

    Just on the stove side of things, if there is water in the attic tank, is there any other risk in trying out the stove?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,623 ✭✭✭John.G


    IMO, none what so ever, light a small fire initially if any concerns.

    What is the boiler pump make/mode?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,629 ✭✭✭LowOdour


    John.G wrote: »
    If the pump has LEDs and control button(s) then it is electronically controlled and these pumps are very prone to "seizing". however, if you ensure the boiler and pump are switched off, shut the two pump isolating valves, remove the 4 (sometimes only 2) securing studs and carefully remove the pump head you can then clean the rotor and impeller and the inside of the pump casing, replace and you might be back in business.
    some Grundfos models installed in the past 4/5 years used to make this sound and were replaced FOC but unlikely to give refund now, still worth chancing a clean out though.
    Definitely not electronic circulation pump, and even so I don't think id be too comfortable messing about with them!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,629 ✭✭✭LowOdour


    John.G wrote: »
    IMO, none what so ever, light a small fire initially if any concerns.

    What is the boiler pump make/mode?

    Its a heat merchants own brand pump...will check in the morning what the model is


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,623 ✭✭✭John.G


    Could possibly be the pump capacitor then, if you are happy to do so, you might remove the pump motor terminal box cover and it should be sitting inside, best to renew it then but give the pump internals a clean out as well.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,629 ✭✭✭LowOdour


    John.G wrote: »
    Could possibly be the pump capacitor then, if you are happy to do so, you might remove the pump motor terminal box cover and it should be sitting inside, best to renew it then but give the pump internals a clean out as well.

    Thanks John, could take a look. Im hoping i can get a plumber some time next week so might have to leave it to then. its only really a problem if we cannot use the stove to heat bedrooms upstairs, so as you suggested will try a small fire tomorrow to see what happens


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,629 ✭✭✭LowOdour


    I put down a stove fire on this morning, and there is heat going to our radiators upstairs (as normal). I put my hand on the circulation pump in the hot press and its running, so i hope that my problem is with the circulation pump at the boiler in the shed.

    Im up keeping an eye on it every so often to make sure there is no strange noises from within the hot press/pump


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,974 ✭✭✭jimf


    im pretty sure it is


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,629 ✭✭✭LowOdour


    jimf wrote: »
    im pretty sure it is

    Cheers for your help. Having stove/back boiler will keep us going for the next week or so until we can get a replacement pump for the boiler and plumber to fit it


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,629 ✭✭✭LowOdour


    For anyone that might have similar issues in the future, the issue was a problematic return valve on the boiler pipe. Plumber replaced it and all good now.

    Said boiler needs a good service and work on and around the pipea, but hoping this will tie us over for a few weeks til the cold snap dies down and things around covid starts to improve


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,380 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    Thanks for reporting back. I presume you meant a non-return valve.

    BTW for others reading. I am still working and I presume most other boiler techs are. People need their heating working. I've had no trouble moving around when I explain what I am doing at the checkpoints. I just ask that people keep away well from me. If inside, I ask that that part of the house be isolated and ventilated before I arrive.
    So if you're in trouble with the heating, don't be afraid to call your plumber or boiler guy. But if you have covid in the house, inform him, he can then get advice from a health professional. I've had one, but luckily it was outdoors and I only saw the people through the window. I think they relished the distraction of the tap on the window to turn it on or off.

    Keep safe. There is light at the end of this tunnel. We're nearly there and there seems to be huge compliance with this current situation, at least from my personal observations.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



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