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Question on windowsill replacement

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  • 11-12-2020 6:53pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 13,057 ✭✭✭✭


    Just had some old, water damaged pine windowsills replaced with new oak planking, 8 inches wide. What does it mean when the edge of the new planks, post installation, looks like this:
    scratches-medium.jpg

    Thanks


«1

Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 33,745 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    I'm not sure what our are asking here. What do you mean what does it mean....


  • Registered Users Posts: 13,057 ✭✭✭✭Igotadose


    Should they be so 'frayed' looking, for want of a better word? They look rough to me, like the blade used to cut them was wrong somehow or dull or both


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,335 ✭✭✭J.R.


    had you intended to put up a photo to illustrate?


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,849 ✭✭✭CoBo55


    Maybe he used an air saw...


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,090 ✭✭✭dok_golf


    CoBo55 wrote: »
    Maybe he used an air saw...

    :D:D:D


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,090 ✭✭✭dok_golf


    Strange, if you hover the cursor over the thread description on the main menu, there is a link there??


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,849 ✭✭✭CoBo55


    Nothing on the touch site.


  • Registered Users Posts: 33,745 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    I'm unsure the nature of he thread tbh . But from the picture attached all you need is some polyfilla to finish it cleanly.

    If you are giving out about a frayed finish on timber that won't be seen then I've no real answer to that. Its under the plaster...


  • Registered Users Posts: 13,057 ✭✭✭✭Igotadose


    To (hopefully) help clarify. The wood was excellent quality before the sawing and installation took place. We sanded it, steel wooled and sealed it, that was our part of the agreement, and gave the wood to the installer.

    After it was installed, the visible ends were very rough (these are windowsills), as if the wrong kind of saw blade was used to cut them - I think you'd need a 'cross-cut' style blade for hardwood (oak) rather than what looks like a lighter-grade blade for pine suitable for ripping.

    If you were cutting oak planking to fit, what kind of circular saw blade would you use, is actually my question. I think the 'rough' edges indicate either the wrong blade uses, or a worn one, or both.

    In addition, there's all kinds of scratches, just some visible in this photo. One corner that had to be mitered, is misaligned badly, and it seems like during the installation another corner broke off so the carpenter created a triangular patch and stuck it in, it looks pretty bad.

    There's a visible ink mark on the surface of one of the boards, I guess they used a pen to mark a measurement.


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,247 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    It means it was cut with a jig saw.
    All will be covered when the job is finished so sleep easy

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 9,002 ✭✭✭mad m


    Window cill = External
    Window board = Internal


  • Registered Users Posts: 13,057 ✭✭✭✭Igotadose


    mad m wrote: »
    Window cill = External
    Window board = Internal

    Thanks for the clarification. It's window boards we had done.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,127 ✭✭✭Dr_Colossus


    Igotadose wrote: »
    To (hopefully) help clarify. The wood was excellent quality before the sawing and installation took place. We sanded it, steel wooled and sealed it, that was our part of the agreement, and gave the wood to the installer.

    ...

    In addition, there's all kinds of scratches, just some visible in this photo. One corner that had to be mitered, is misaligned badly, and it seems like during the installation another corner broke off so the carpenter created a triangular patch and stuck it in, it looks pretty bad.

    There's a visible ink mark on the surface of one of the boards, I guess they used a pen to mark a measurement.

    Can you post photos of the scratches and triangular patch, sounds bad.
    As others have said the cut visible in first photo while rough isn't of any concern as will not be visible but it wouldn't have killed the installer to sand smooth the finish. The visible scratches however will need to be repaired as they will be visible so defeats your previous work and sealing.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,849 ✭✭✭CoBo55


    mad m wrote: »
    Window cill = External
    Window board = Internal

    Sill, it's window sill..


  • Registered Users Posts: 13,057 ✭✭✭✭Igotadose


    Can you post photos of the scratches and triangular patch, sounds bad.
    As others have said the cut visible in first photo while rough isn't of any concern as will not be visible but it wouldn't have killed the installer to sand smooth the finish. The visible scratches however will need to be repaired as they will be visible so defeats your previous work and sealing.

    Here is the misaligned corner. The color is very different between the two boards, the leftmost board was installed upside down, with the 'bad' side up, you can make out the pen mark on the upper left of the darker board to the right

    bad-Corner-medium.jpg


    Here is the patched board, the patch is the triangle in the upper left corner
    scratchandpatch-medium.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,090 ✭✭✭dok_golf


    if its bothering you, why not paint them?


  • Administrators Posts: 53,460 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭awec


    The misaligned corner and the patch is pretty shoddy work.

    The OP clearly didn’t buy oak window boards to paint them.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,849 ✭✭✭CoBo55


    Igotadose wrote: »
    Here is the misaligned corner. The color is very different between the two boards, the leftmost board was installed upside down, with the 'bad' side up, you can make out the pen mark on the upper left of the darker board to the right

    bad-Corner-medium.jpg


    Here is the patched board, the patch is the triangle in the upper left corner
    scratchandpatch-medium.jpg

    That's absolutely shocking workmanship I wouldn't blame you for being upset.


  • Registered Users Posts: 31,021 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    Whatever about the shocking alignment, have those mitres been cut with a jigsaw?


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,184 ✭✭✭KaneToad


    A picture really does paint a thousand words. I initially thought OP was being overly fussy.

    But that job looks like something I would do, as a below average DIYer, rather than the work of a professional.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 13,057 ✭✭✭✭Igotadose


    Lumen wrote: »
    Whatever about the shocking alignment, have those mitres been cut with a jigsaw?

    Thanks for the comments. I think part of the misalignment problem, is that the cut of the darker board is not 'crisp'. It seems to drift around a little and not be 100% straight (kind of bows out at one point). Would that indicate a jigsaw for mitering?

    We're sadly considering hiring someone else to repeat the job. We haven't been billed yet, and that's the next problem as I don't feel like we should pay for such shoddy work.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,127 ✭✭✭Dr_Colossus


    Igotadose wrote: »
    We're sadly considering hiring someone else to repeat the job. We haven't been billed yet, and that's the next problem as I don't feel like we should pay for such shoddy work.

    You should be billing them for new window board rather than the other way round. Have they done any other work in the house and what's the quality of that like.


  • Registered Users Posts: 13,057 ✭✭✭✭Igotadose


    You should be billing them for new window board rather than the other way round. Have they done any other work in the house and what's the quality of that like.

    The installer, had done some window replacement for us, just swapping 1 vinyl window for another. That work was fine. He normally worked solo. He also is the 'regular window guy' out here and everyone has used him.

    We had him out to repair another window, the mechanical arm had busted so it wasn't closing properly. He did that and we got to discussing the window boards since they were in terrible shape and whether we needed new windows. He said we didn't but he could replace the window boards with white oak ones and it'd look great. Fast forward about 6 weeks, the boards are delivered, we spend the better part of 2 weeks sanding and polyurethaning them, and hand them off to him and his assistant.

    For this job, he had a 'carpenter' with him, I suspect he thought it was a bit beyond him (and obviously it was.) After two half days of work, which we supervised as best we could, they never asked any questions except 'have you a pen I could borrow' which made me really nervous, and that they needed a small sliver of wood to align something, they were going to use an unfinished scrap but I persuaded them to take it off a finished scrap and they did. LIke, that wasn't obvious.

    Anyway, 2 half-days of work, they're done, take their stuff and leave, and we finally get to look really close at the work. The results are as you see above. I should probably have been more assertive about watching their every move, but I had no reason to suspect they'd do such shoddy work, the installer had been very good and everyone's used him for years. The only knock against him I've heard is that he's somewhat expensive.

    Thing is, if I get the work redone, I don't want him doing it. Why should I expect better results? I've located a furniture maker out here who is also well recommended but we're going to look at some of his work soon, he's the type that builds everything in the workshop and then installs it, so I expect he can measure better than these guys. It's pretty clear they mismeasured things, too.


  • Registered Users Posts: 31,021 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    As an inexperienced amateur, there's not much harder than working with unpainted wood, because there's no margin for error. With a painted finish you can fix problems with filler, you've no hope with exposed grain. That's why professional carpenters exist.

    If he has a good rep then it's likely he just stepped outside his comfort zone, or had a spectacularly bad day.

    I would simply say "this is far below your usual standard of work" and see how it goes, but if he wants to be paid then I don't see how it can be left like that, everyone who goes round to your house will ask which clown did it, is that what he wants? Remember that even if you pay nothing you'll have wasted a load of effort on the wood prep and a load of time getting the job redone by a real finish carpenter.


  • Registered Users Posts: 27,114 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    It looks like you got expensive materials and cheap installers I'm afraid.

    As lumen said, unpainted wood has very fine margins, I'd have templated it all with plywood to get it perfect.
    I'd also have used a good chop or circular saw on a bench, these look hand cut in the floor to me.

    I certainly wouldn't be paying, but don't think you can get compensated either, you both need to just walk away.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,506 ✭✭✭the_pen_turner


    are you telling us that it took them 2 and a half days to fit that window board

    the fuzzy edges dont matter
    the join is bad but could be fixed, its cut too long. they didnt cut to the marked line at all

    the bit added on is terrible , no excuse for that. even if it was being painted that wouldnt be ok


  • Administrators Posts: 53,460 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭awec


    are you telling us that it took them 2 and a half days to fit that window board

    the fuzzy edges dont matter
    the join is bad but could be fixed, its cut too long. they didnt cut to the marked line at all

    the bit added on is terrible , no excuse for that. even if it was being painted that wouldnt be ok

    Surely they need a new board to fix that join. One board is now cut too short.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,677 ✭✭✭ShamNNspace


    Is that w/b with the patch installed between 2 walls? Did the installer stupidly cut off a corner in order to angle the w/b in?


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,506 ✭✭✭the_pen_turner


    awec wrote: »
    Surely they need a new board to fix that join. One board is now cut too short.

    sorry i wasnt thinking. the one on the left will need a new one. due to the corner bodged back on. it depends on how much extra is under the wall. the one on the right is too long but the left one might have enough to move to the left.


    i dont like the colour match either. i wouldnt be happy. different cuts of the tree and hugly diferent colours. not convinced they are both white oak


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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,618 ✭✭✭chooseusername


    Looks like not enough timber ordered,
    and had to turn over the mitre cut ,
    probably accounted for the corner fiasco as well.


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