Is Tanking around bath/shower necessary?

QuiteInterestin

Hi all,

Totally clueless about all things plumbing/DIY so I'd appreciate some advice. I'm in the process of buying a new build, which is still a few months off completion. I went for a walk around it recently with a relative who enquired if they would be using moisture proof boards/tanking around the bath/shower. The estate agent didn't know at the time so he followed it up and came back to me today to say that they wouldn't' be, that it wasn't necessary. My relative (who works in construction) has told me it is necessary and to insist on it.

It's a new build, should be A2 rated, with heat recovery system. Would any of this explain why it shouldn't be tanked? Or should I insist on it?

Thanks in Advance

By the way, if this is the wrong forum for this, let me know and I'll try a different one, thanks

Sleeper12

You can't really insist on it as it's not part of the spec of the house. It is worth paying a little bit more though to have it done. Ask the builder how much extra will it cost

QuiteInterestin

Sleeper12 wrote: »

You can't really insist on it as it's not part of the spec of the house. It is worth paying a little bit more though to have it done. Ask the builder how much extra will it cost

Thanks for the reply. That's what I was hoping to do, I'll be paying extra for the tiles/tiler anyways as the tiling allowance only covers tiles around the bath/shower and I want the whole bathroom tiled. Just wanted to see what others thought before I went asking for it, or if there was any reason not to.

youtheman

If it was me I'd tank it, 10000%. Relatively cheap at this stage, but if you do get a leak the cost will be insignificant compared to what you will spend rectifying it. Let me tell you from personal experience, there is nothing more depressing than looking up at your ceiling and looking at a damp patch getting bigger by the day, knowing that you have to completely destruct your shower room just to fix it. It will be the best insurance money you will ever spend.

GreeBo

Without tanking the first time you realise you have a leak might be when something collapses...
You might get lucky and it might be just some plasterboard that needs to be replaced, or the studs, joists, frames could be rotten and you need to demo one side of the house.

It will add a tiny amount to the cost of a house to tank it, if the builder wont do it then I would bargain for an unfinished bathroom and a discount and get it done myself. Thats the level of important I would have for tanking...

Dangee4050

GreeBo wrote: »

Without tanking the first time you realise you have a leak might be when something collapses...
You might get lucky and it might be just some plasterboard that needs to be replaced, or the studs, joists, frames could be rotten and you need to demo one side of the house.

It will add a tiny amount to the cost of a house to tank it, if the builder wont do it then I would bargain for an unfinished bathroom and a discount and get it done myself. Thats the level of important I would have for tanking...

That would be unlikely that the house needs demo in one side of the house would it not?
Majority of new builds probably aren’t tanked they likely just use the moisture resistant plasterboard.
I rented a new build wasn’t tanked and now my new home is not tanked

If I was putting a new bathroom in I would tank it. 100%

Lenar3556

[Deleted User] wrote: »

If I was putting a new bathroom in I would tank it. 100%

And stay away from plasterboard! Moisture resistant or otherwise.

olestoepoke

Tanking is ****.... Shluter make great products and anyone half handy can apply it. shluter Ditra for the floor and Shluter Kerdi membrane for the walls, pre made corners. Watch a few youtube videos on how to fit it. I've don't it a few times now, great product.

WEST

Lenar3556 wrote: »

And stay away from plasterboard! Moisture resistant or otherwise.

What's the alternative to plasterboard?

olestoepoke

WEST wrote: »

What's the alternative to plasterboard?

8x4 cement board, expensive, heavy and awkward to work with but bullet proof. I put 3 8x4 boards around my walk in shower. Solid job if done correctly with the right framing behind it and the correct screws to fix.

GreeBo

olestoepoke wrote: »

8x4 cement board, expensive, heavy and awkward to work with but bullet proof. I put 3 8x4 boards around my walk in shower. Solid job if done correctly with the right framing behind it and the correct screws to fix.

Schluter, concrete or otherwise, they are all only as good as the joints and penetrations

GreeBo

Dangee4050 wrote: »

That would be unlikely that the house needs demo in one side of the house would it not?
Majority of new builds probably aren’t tanked they likely just use the moisture resistant plasterboard.
I rented a new build wasn’t tanked and now my new home is not tanked

I've seen plenty of situations where the studs, joists and floor had to be replaced, in one case the walls downstairs were also toast.
All it needs is for the water to go towards the exterior wall rather than the internal and you won't see it until it's too late.

In a timber frame house it could be even worse.

olestoepoke

GreeBo wrote: »

Schluter, concrete or otherwise, they are all only as good as the joints and penetrations

What joints?

olestoepoke

Dangee4050 wrote: »

That would be unlikely that the house needs demo in one side of the house would it not?
Majority of new builds probably aren’t tanked they likely just use the moisture resistant plasterboard.
I rented a new build wasn’t tanked and now my new home is not tanked

I spit my tea out when I read that lol. Demo one side of the house ha ha.

GreeBo

olestoepoke wrote: »

What joints?

Erm, where the wall meets the floor for example?
Where ditra meets kerdi?

Or between the three concrete board you used yourself?

Are you saying that you didn't waterproof your joints??

GreeBo

olestoepoke wrote: »

I spit my tea out when I read that lol. Demo one side of the house ha ha.

You'll be a rich man if you can replace rotten studs without any demo. I'd personally pay to watch it.

Though maybe you are from the "lick of paint" school of tradesmen?

olestoepoke

GreeBo wrote: »

Erm, where the wall meets the floor for example?
Where ditra meets kerdi?

Or between the three concrete board you used yourself?

Are you saying that you didn't waterproof your joints??

Ok so this confirms what I suspected you haven't a clue what your talking about and worse you're giving advice on it. If you where in any way familiar with the Shluter system you wouldn't ask silly questions like this. This is the danger with forums. If a person doesn't know what they are talking about they really shouldn't be giving advice.

olestoepoke

GreeBo wrote: »

You'll be a rich man if you can replace rotten studs without any demo. I'd personally pay to watch it.

Though maybe you are from the "lick of paint" school of tradesmen?

I am a finish carpenter with 32 years worldwide experience. Never in all my years working here in Ireland and abroad (almost 20 years in the US) have I ever come across a a shower leak that required one side of a house to be replaced. Ridiculous statement.

Jinglejangle69

Flexi seal.

Sleeper12

Jinglejangle69 wrote: »

Flexi seal.

I would have said the same myself 15 years ago. Now I'd insist on tanking as well as frexi seal

QuiteInterestin

Thanks for all the replies, will definetly insist on tanking. Thanks again