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Isolation for outdoor lights with PIR?

  • 24-11-2020 2:40pm
    #1
    LostInLM
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 105 ✭✭


    Just noticed that an outdoor floodlight with built in PIR on my garage thats acting up has no other means of isolation apart from MCB in house which also controls other internal and external lights. Is this common practice?

    What about case where a number of outdoor lights are controlled by a seperate PIR. Is it normal to just isolate the PIR at the board or should it have a switch on the permanent live to isolate if it goes faulty. (Not talking about override switch in parallel with sensor).

    Whats the normal guidelines / regs for this?


Comments

  • #2
    coylemj
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 25,620 ✭✭✭✭coylemj


    I had an external lamp with PIR (rated IP44) which I bought in Lidl. It was seriously exposed to gales and rain and water eventually got into the PIR so I replaced it recently with an Ansell 10W LED lamp with PIR which is rated at IP65.

    The external power point is on my downstairs lighting circuit so the answer to your first question (end of first paragraph) appears to be 'yes'. Both the old and new lamps came with just one pair of live and neutral wires so the PIR cannot be isolated. You can desensitize it by adjusting one of the external controls on the lamp so it's not coming on during the day when someone walks by but that's all.

    I tested the new lamp before I got my sparks to install it, I wired it to a three-pin plug and tested it indoors with a power measuring (passthru) device. While being careful to point the lamp away from me when it was switched on. In standby mode, it consumed a constant 0.9W and when the lamp was lit, it used 10W.

    Check the bottom of the grey sensor area on the PIR, you may see evidence of water ingress. In which case you need to replace the unit.


  • #3
    LostInLM
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 105 ✭✭LostInLM


    coylemj wrote: »
    I had an external lamp with PIR (rated IP44) which I bought in Lidl. It was seriously exposed to gales and rain and water eventually got into the PIR so I replaced it recently with an Ansell 10W LED lamp with PIR which is rated at IP65.

    The external power point is on my downstairs lighting circuit so the answer to your first question (end of first paragraph) appears to be 'yes'. Both the old and new lamps came with just one pair of live and neutral wires so the PIR cannot be isolated. You can desensitize it by adjusting one of the external controls on the lamp so it's not coming on during the day when someone walks by but that's all.

    I tested the new lamp before I got my sparks to install it, I wired it to a three-pin plug and tested it indoors with a power measuring (passthru) device. While being careful to point the lamp away from me when it was switched on. In standby mode, it consumed a constant 0.9W and when the lamp was lit, it used 10W.

    Check the bottom of the grey sensor area on the PIR, you may see evidence of water ingress. In which case you need to replace the unit.

    Yes. I think the PIR has seen better days. Most likely water related. I will swap it out for a new one. However I was wondering if was normal to just connect these straight in without a switch for isolation, considering that everything from bathroom fans to kitchen appliances appears to need independent isolation switches these days. Just thought it a bit strange.


  • #4
    coylemj
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 25,620 ✭✭✭✭coylemj


    My external lamp is controlled by a regular light switch in the kitchen. Probably not what you would call an 'isolator' switch.


  • #5
    Pasteur.
    Closed Accounts Posts: 256 ✭✭Pasteur.


    LostInLM wrote: »
    Just noticed that an outdoor floodlight with built in PIR on my garage thats acting up has no other means of isolation apart from MCB in house which also controls other internal and external lights. Is this common practice?

    What about case where a number of outdoor lights are controlled by a seperate PIR. Is it normal to just isolate the PIR at the board or should it have a switch on the permanent live to isolate if it goes faulty. (Not talking about override switch in parallel with sensor).

    Whats the normal guidelines / regs for this?

    I don't think there's any regulations on control ( functional switching) or isolation of lights

    I think you can even switch them from an MCB


    A fireman's switch I think would fall into the category of 'emergency switching'


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