Looking for a battery isolator switch

irishguy19772

Anyone know where I can get a battery isolator switch that is durable? Ones on Amazon are around 6 euro but I have my doubts. Was looking for one that would fit over the negative battery terminal and you twist on or off.

Gillespy

Something I'm interesting in too. A durable, long lasting isolation switch. The two in the links below is what we have used and still use but they don't seem to last. A year or so the most. They will look fine, barely any wear visible but will get hot and a lot slower to start as a result.

https://www.tractorparts.ie/products/cut-off-isolation-switch-3875.html

https://www.tractorparts.ie/products/cut_off_isolation_switch_2303.html

zetecescort

try your local motor factors. should have more than 1 type and you'll be able to inspect it before you buy

Bog Man 1

I gave up on Isolator switches on the Combine and I just use a bolt to the chassis now and unbolt it when I leave the Combine . I keep spraying WD40 into the Isolator on the Volvo loader but I did have a run of bad luck with them too .

Bass Reeves

Remember the isolator switch should be put on the earth (-)not the live (+) of the battery.

cjpm

Bass Reeves wrote: »

Remember the isolator switch should be put on the earth (-)not the live (+) of the battery.

How do ye manage the presets stored in the Radio? Any radio i have, when I switch off the battery switch the memory gets wiped.....

dzer2

You should have a trickle earth that way the essentials say live

Westernworld.

dzer2 wrote: »

You should have a trickle earth that way the essentials say live

Is that not defeating the point no?

Testacalda

If you want an isolator that goes directly onto the battery irishsales.ie have them. Actually only bought a few from there last week.

https://www.irishsales.ie/?product=battery-cut-off-switch-quick-disconnect

I use them on all my vintage cars and tractors, never had an issue with them personally, depends on the size and cranking current of the machine in question I suppose. They are simpler design, cheaper and much easier to fit than the traditional isolator. As with all electrical connections, keep it clean bright and tight, or it will give you problems

_Brian

Bass Reeves wrote: »

Remember the isolator switch should be put on the earth (-)not the live (+) of the battery.

Do you know the thinking behind this.

Took off an isolator recently because it failed and it was fitted on the positive line between battery and starter, by myself years ago.

Isolator died when the started died, it was drawing massive current and seems to have damaged the isolator

Turbohymac

Jeepers op..a 6 euro battery insulator from Amazon..youd need to move up from the 1980s.. and something like durite etc. Otherwise it's just from a lucky bag

Bass Reeves

_Brian wrote: »

Do you know the thinking behind this.

Took off an isolator recently because it failed and it was fitted on the positive line between battery and starter, by myself years ago.

Isolator died when the started died, it was drawing massive current and seems to have damaged the isolator

In Theory if the positive is switched and the positive come free from the isolation switch it can cause damage or a fire. As well depending on the tractor you may have to.run the positive to the switch a distance. If anything happens to s positive leat it is much more likely to touch off the tractor body which is still an negative.

Whit it on the negative pole the lead is only making the tractor back into a negative which it is supposed to be anyway

_Brian

Bass Reeves wrote: »

In Theory if the positive is switched and the positive come free from the isolation switch it can cause damage or a fire. As well depending on the tractor you may have to.run the positive to the switch a distance. If anything happens to s positive leat it is much more likely to touch off the tractor body which is still an negative.

Whit it on the negative pole the lead is only making the tractor back into a negative which it is supposed to be anyway

Thanks.

dzer2

Originally the switch had a low load trickle which allowed clocks radios and small heaters run with out draining the battery but if you tries to start the engine the diode would trip out

Gillespy

Bog Man 1 wrote: »

I gave up on Isolator switches on the Combine and I just use a bolt to the chassis now and unbolt it when I leave the Combine . I keep spraying WD40 into the Isolator on the Volvo loader but I did have a run of bad luck with them too .

Not a bad idea on seldom used machines. Better than taking off the battery cable as there's only so many times you can take them on and off.

I use older MF loaders(50HX, 50B) daily that have a reputation for going on fire so need something a bit more convenient. In a pinch, I have clamped the two ends that go into the dead switch together with a vice grips and that works fine too. And isn't that much more hassle really. I will try wd40 and see will it help the ones in now.