Boiler trouble

Mickotipp

Ok I’ll try to keep this as short as possible. Got a new oil boiler installed earlier this year (renting the house, so the landlord got plumbers to fit it). It’s a warmflow, not sure what model. It’s only a small 2 bedroom cottage so I’d imagine it’s a basic enough one. Soon after it was installed, it was firing up for a few minutes and then would cut out. It’s like the water was heating in the boiler but not moving into the the house. The pressure gauge in the hot press was less than 1 bar, so I opened up the valve and that sorted it. Bled the rads and all was grand.

However, last week I left it on and ran out of oil and can’t seem to get it going properly again. I got oil and bled the line. I can’t seem to get the pressure up over 1 bar in the hot press...I think it should be 1.5 minimum. Basically, I turn on the switch in the utility, the boiler fires up for maybe 5 minutes (it’s an outside one) and then cuts out.
While it’s firing up, I open the valve to get pressure up but won’t seem to go over 1. Would there be a load of air in the rads? When it cuts out, the pipes on the left of the green box (the motor?) are hot, but the pipes on the right are cold. It’s like the heat isn’t getting through of that makes sense. The display on the motor flashes between say 4W and then 10W. Whatever that means. Then I can’t reset it and have to turn it off and wait hours before I can switch it on and it fires up again.
I’ve attached pictures if that helps. I’d imagine it’s only something small but I don’t want to say it to the landlord as they have other stuff going on at the moment.
Any help appreciated.

Mickotipp

More pics

Mickotipp

More pics

whizbang

Try Set the pump control to the iii position in the grey markings. There is also an air vent button on the pump, try it also.

Dont open the filling loop when boiler is hot. Do you hear any water running when you open the filling taps ?

Wearb

You really shouldn't be doing anything to it. It's a new install and the installer might wash his hands of any responsibility....which he has if it's a new install.
Can you contact the installer directly if you don't want to bother landlord.

Lenar3556

Possibly more than one issue there. Would be best have installer return.
I have yet to be convinced that the energy savings supposedly brought about by these fancy pumps is worth the reliability impact.

Mickotipp

whizbang wrote: »

Try Set the pump control to the iii position in the grey markings. There is also an air vent button on the pump, try it also.

Dont open the filling loop when boiler is hot. Do you hear any water running when you open the filling taps ?

Ok I’ll move it to that position when I try it in the morning. I assume move it first and then turn it on?
You say “don’t open the filling loop”...I assume you mean don’t try get pressure up while boiler is running? I got it going earlier this morning, and heard water moving in the hot press and pipes heating up and rads were hot. I turned it off as I’d to go back to work, and timed it to come back on later in the day....came back and nothing, never fired up again 😩

whizbang

Sounds like a bad leak. Or you turned something you shouldn't have when trying to bleed the oil.

Get landlord back

jimf

1 bar pressure cold should be more than enough for the boiler to fire

sounds like you have air in the system

job for the installer

John.G

The pump is set to maximum constant pressure (CP) 6M which is far too high, if the system was running normally then the power would be 40 watts so its circulating virtually nothing for whatever reason, if you turn the rotary control slowly anti clockwise a little and stop then you will see a flashing numeral, could be 4.5 or 4 or whatever, this means the pump is now set to that particular head and will then flash for 5 secs and then display the power in watts(W), I would suggest setting it to 3.0m. if system is normal then you should be reading say 18 to 24W, as suggested press that air release button once (I think) and you will see the air LED illuminated and rotating arrows on the display, it will then get rid of the air in the pump only (in theory) by slowing and speeding up the pump for 10 minutes and then revert to normal operation, obviously if you have air in the system then this is useless.

Just checked by own (Wilo) pump now so yes, press the button briefly and that air symbol will light up and you will see lighted bars moving up and down on the display for 10 mins, worth a try anyway.

Also check the arrow on the pump body, if the pump is installed on the boiler return (colder pipe) then the arrow should be pointing into the boiler, if installed on the boiler flow (Hot pipe) then the arrow should be pointing away from the boiler.

Mickotipp

John.G wrote: »

The pump is set to maximum constant pressure (CP) 6M which is far too high, if the system was running normally then the power would be 40 watts so its circulating virtually nothing for whatever reason, if you turn the rotary control slowly anti clockwise a little and stop then you will see a flashing numeral, could be 4.5 or 4 or whatever, this means the pump is now set to that particular head and will then flash for 5 secs and then display the power in watts(W), I would suggest setting it to 3.0m. if system is normal then you should be reading say 18 to 24W, as suggested press that air release button once (I think) and you will see the air LED illuminated and rotating arrows on the display, it will then get rid of the air in the pump only (in theory) by slowing and speeding up the pump for 10 minutes and then revert to normal operation, obviously if you have air in the system then this is useless.

Just checked by own (Wilo) pump now so yes, press the button briefly and that air symbol will light up and you will see lighted bars moving up and down on the display for 10 mins, worth a try anyway.

Also check the arrow on the pump body, if the pump is installed on the boiler return (colder pipe) then the arrow should be pointing into the boiler, if installed on the boiler flow (Hot pipe) then the arrow should be pointing away from the boiler.

Ok tried that this morning. Turned on the boiler. Had the black knob (thermostat?) up to max, then changed the settings to 3.0, pressed the air release button. The lines flashed up and down like you said. Then same as normal, it cut out and then numbers start flashing again like 4W and 12w alternating.

Mickotipp

Mickotipp wrote: »

Ok tried that this morning. Turned on the boiler. Had the black knob (thermostat?) up to max, then changed the settings to 3.0, pressed the air release button. The lines flashed up and down like you said. Then same as normal, it cut out and then numbers start flashing again like 4W and 12w alternating.

The pipes behind that arrow get hot and the pipes at other side of pump don’t.

John.G

On the left of your picture you can see the boiler PRV (safety valve) this is always installed on the boiler flow so IF the pump is installed on the return then it is pumping the wrong way, so try and establish if the pump is installed on the flow or the return even though the pump should still circulate water if installed incorrectly.

Also if you turn the red knob slowly anti clockwise on the PRV you will open it and that will certainly vent any air followed by water, you may have to top up your pressure afterwards.

The other thing is that the pump should not be upright, this will probably shorten its life but shouldn't stop it working just now. These warmflow heatpac don't seem to give much elbow room, I have a Firebird heatpac with plenty of room to mount the pump at the side.

Mickotipp

John.G wrote: »

On the left of your picture you can see the boiler PRV (safety valve) this is always installed on the boiler flow so IF the pump is installed on the return then it is pumping the wrong way, so try and establish if the pump is installed on the flow or the return even though the pump should still circulate water if installed incorrectly.

Also if you turn the red knob slowly anti clockwise on the PRV you will open it and that will certainly vent any air followed by water, you may have to top up your pressure afterwards.

The other thing is that the pump should not be upright, this will probably shorten its life but shouldn't stop it working just now. These warmflow heatpac don't seem to give much elbow room, I have a Firebird heatpac with plenty of room to mount the pump at the side.

Not sure if it’s installed the right way. It used work so I assume it is? Sorry, I’m not much good at this kind of stuff. I opened that red valve and hot water came out of it, no air.
This is what happens when it kicks out. These numbers come up on it.

Mickotipp

Mickotipp wrote: »

Not sure if it’s installed the right way. It used work so I assume it is? Sorry, I’m not much good at this kind of stuff. I opened that red valve and hot water came out of it, no air.
This is what happens when it kicks out. These numbers come up on it.

There

Mickotipp

Mickotipp wrote: »

There

Ok it won’t let me attach a video but basically the numbers flash and alternate between 11 and 3

John.G

If its flashing, 11 is a error code, possibly (still) air in the pump, there possibly should be a E somewhere as well, if it is pumping or trying to pump then there will be a W after a number, ie 12W (no flashing), could be the pump itself but I'm doubtful, only got two other suggestions before you call someone in, 1, get a pliers or a adjustable spanner and ensure the valves on either side of the pump are fully open, about 3 to 5 full turns from fully closed and 2, change the pump setting to II as suggested just in case its some pump problem. It would help if you can post just a photo of the displayed numbers on the pump display,

"E11 Dry run, Air in the pump"

Can't find any error code with a 3.