Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

Wiring to a shed

  • 29-10-2020 1:06pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,283 ✭✭✭


    Hi all,

    Just wondering would the following be safe for wiring a shed from a house?

    The shed is located about 5 metres from the kitchen at the back of the house so I was thinking I could tap into one of the kitchen sockets near the back door. I would basically be creating a spur off of the kitchen socket ring and running 2.5mm T&E wire (shielded or run in a conduit) down along a garden fence and into the shed.

    I'd like three sockets in the shed, which sounds like a bit much on a spur maybe, but would it be ok if I ensured there was a fused connector unit (13a) at the start of the spur?

    Just for clarity, nothing heavy runs in the shed, no welders or large machines, the odd small power tool or soldering iron.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,374 ✭✭✭aido79


    Fabio wrote: »
    Hi all,

    Just wondering would the following be safe for wiring a shed from a house?

    The shed is located about 5 metres from the kitchen at the back of the house so I was thinking I could tap into one of the kitchen sockets near the back door. I would basically be creating a spur off of the kitchen socket ring and running 2.5mm T&E wire (shielded or run in a conduit) down along a garden fence and into the shed.

    I'd like three sockets in the shed, which sounds like a bit much on a spur maybe, but would it be ok if I ensured there was a fused connector unit (13a) at the start of the spur?

    Just for clarity, nothing heavy runs in the shed, no welders or large machines, the odd small power tool or soldering iron.

    There's very little chance that an electrician will agree to wire a shed like this but would I be right in assuming you going to do this yourself?. It's only slightly better than running an extension lead down to the shed from the kitchen and plugging everything into it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,283 ✭✭✭Fabio


    aido79 wrote: »
    There's very little chance that an electrician will agree to wire a shed like this but would I be right in assuming you going to do this yourself?. It's only slightly better than running an extension lead down to the shed from the kitchen and plugging everything into it.

    To be honest, that's what I'm doing at the moment and I'm not terribly happy with that. It works and the most I run off of it is an LED light but still...


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,641 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    Fabio wrote: »
    It works and the most I run off of it is an LED light but still...

    It’s not the worst design I have heard of.

    To improve:
    - Feed the shed from a spur outlet from the ring circuit so as to ensure the shed cable has protection. Otherwise it any only be “protected” by a 32A MCB.
    - Use an SWA to supply the shed.
    - Bury the SWA at least 2 feet.

    Obviously a dedicated circuit fed from the main distribution board and a sub distribution board in the shed would be best.

    Regarding the above (quoted part), please understand that you have no way of guaranteeing what size loads will be plugged in to the shed sockets by others for evermore.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,283 ✭✭✭Fabio


    2011 wrote: »
    It’s not the worst design I have heard of.

    To improve:
    - Feed the shed from a spur outlet from the ring circuit so as to ensure the shed cable has protection. Otherwise it any only be “protected” by a 32A MCB.
    - Use an SWA to supply the shed.
    - Bury the SWA at least 2 feet.

    Obviously a dedicated circuit fed from the main distribution board and a sub distribution board in the shed would be best.

    Regarding the above (quoted part), please understand that you have no way of guaranteeing what size loads will be plugged in to the shed sockets by others for evermore.

    You're absolutely right.

    Any idea of a ballpark figure to have a professional do a proper job? I'm handy with this stuff but, given what you say about not being able to predict what may or may not be plugged into the shed by others in the future maybe I should er on the side of caution.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 225 ✭✭JimToken


    The point 2011 made is a good one

    You sell the house and the shed sockets should be fit for general use


  • Advertisement
  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 263 ✭✭PatrickSmithUS


    Would you be covered by insurance if anything went wrong with this system?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 68,317 ✭✭✭✭seamus


    Fabio wrote: »
    Any idea of a ballpark figure to have a professional do a proper job?
    Looking at other threads, set aside €2k for the job and you should have a good chunk of change left over if it's very straightforward work.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 225 ✭✭JimToken


    Would you be covered by insurance if anything went wrong with this system?

    Insurance , pirs etc.

    All new work should be done to current rules


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,904 ✭✭✭✭ted1


    JimToken wrote: »
    Insurance , pirs etc.

    All new work should be done to current rules

    If it puts a three pin socket on it , it’s just an extension lead.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 341 ✭✭tweek84


    2011 wrote: »
    It’s not the worst design I have heard of.

    To improve:
    - Feed the shed from a spur outlet from the ring circuit so as to ensure the shed cable has protection. Otherwise it any only be “protected” by a 32A MCB.
    - Use an SWA to supply the shed.
    - Bury the SWA at least 2 feet.

    Obviously a dedicated circuit fed from the main distribution board and a sub distribution board in the shed would be best.

    Regarding the above (quoted part), please understand that you have no way of guaranteeing what size loads will be plugged in to the shed sockets by others for evermore.

    All underground cabling power cable is to be a minimum 6mm2


  • Advertisement
  • Closed Accounts Posts: 225 ✭✭JimToken


    tweek84 wrote: »
    All underground cabling power cable is to be a minimum 6mm2

    What's this?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 341 ✭✭tweek84


    JimToken wrote: »
    What's this?
    714.522.8.03 The cross-sectional area of phase (line) and neutral conductors in underground cable
    shall be not less than 6mm2.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,641 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    tweek84 wrote: »
    714.522.8.03 The cross-sectional area of phase (line) and neutral conductors in underground cable
    shall be not less than 6mm2.

    My version of ET101 has 714.522.8.02 but no 714.522.8.03
    I guess that my version is too old. I would question the logic of this to be honest.

    When I look in I.S. 10101 is states that:
    "The cross-sectional area of phase (line) and neutral conductors in underground cable shall be not less than 6mm^2 for street lighting."


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 225 ✭✭JimToken


    There's no such rule re swa obviously

    Public lighting cable is 6sq alright last time I used it


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 225 ✭✭JimToken


    I've an 8.02 it seems to be in relation to public lighting


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,283 ✭✭✭Fabio


    Thanks all for the replies.


Advertisement