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New shed downpipes

  • 10-10-2020 6:45pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,266 ✭✭✭


    As the title suggests at the stage where I'm getting the storm water connections ready for a new shed.

    Has anyone here got some clever ways they've theres setup so it's easy divert to the tanks if needed for agitating from time to time


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 939 ✭✭✭Aravo


    Downpipes here finish about 2ft above ground level. There is a small chamber under the down pipe for storm water and a small section of pipe runs from the downpipe to the chamber to send water in this direction. When water is needed for the tank a section of pipe let's water into slat area or slat cover area, it is tied at end of downpipe. It's simple and works ok.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 30,217 ✭✭✭✭whelan2


    We have diversions on our downpipes. Will take a photo tomorrow


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,266 ✭✭✭Dozer1


    Thanks all much appreciated


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,378 ✭✭✭DBK1


    Dozer1 wrote: »
    As the title suggests at the stage where I'm getting the storm water connections ready for a new shed.

    Has anyone here got some clever ways they've theres setup so it's easy divert to the tanks if needed for agitating from time to time
    If it’s a new shed over a new tank run the downpipes into a manhole in the ground. Have two outlets, one to the tank and one to a drain. Fit a 90 degree bend on each outlet. If you want water into the tank turn that 90 down and the other up. Vice versa if you want water to the drain. It’s very simple to set up if it’s done before yard concrete is in place.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 30,217 ✭✭✭✭whelan2


    Here's the photos. The pipe lying on the ground can be attached when you take the plug out inside


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 30,217 ✭✭✭✭whelan2


    And inside


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,127 ✭✭✭minerleague


    whelan2 wrote: »
    And inside

    Keep plenty of grease on that plug ( threaded part), had one here rusted so badly couldn't be opened after a couple of years


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,266 ✭✭✭Dozer1


    Thanks Whelan I've two big sliding doors to contend with aswell but something like that might work. Will talk to the builder tomorrow


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 16 Healy_Rayban


    whelan2 wrote: »
    And inside

    So basically the water backs up the pipe and overflows into the drain?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 30,217 ✭✭✭✭whelan2


    So basically the water backs up the pipe and overflows into the drain?

    It can go to the drain outside or divert into slatted tank on inside


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,266 ✭✭✭Dozer1


    Also what's the plug called or where would I get one


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 30,217 ✭✭✭✭whelan2


    Dozer1 wrote: »
    Also what's the plug called or where would I get one

    We got it in local hardware store. You could show them the photo


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 939 ✭✭✭Aravo


    Dozer1 wrote: »
    Also what's the plug called or where would I get one

    It's a drainage water test bung/plug. Generally used for pressure testing pipework to ensure a drainage system has no leaks. So that's why it would work well there. They come in 2 types one blank unit or the threaded type as shown for connection to a test kit. That one would a bit more expensive that the blank unit. A good hardware or hire shop would have them.


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