Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

Self leveling compound

Options
  • 07-10-2020 6:48pm
    #1
    Hedgecutter
    Registered Users Posts: 1,030 ✭✭✭


    I plan to level a bedroom floor that measures 4.6m x 3.5 m = 16 m2 ish.

    I estimate 6 to 7 bags of compound. I haven't used leveling compound for years.

    Instructions says 3.64 lt of water per 20 kg bag.

    Do I have to be this accurate with the water measuring?

    Also can I mix 3 bags at a time a pour is all out, it tells me I have 30 minutes working time.

    Do i have to use a trowel or could i use something larger to make life a bit easier.

    I need to level the entire floor.

    Cheers any advice appreciated


Comments

  • Options
    #2
    BrokenArrows
    Registered Users Posts: 7,500 ✭✭✭BrokenArrows


    Hedgecutter wrote: »
    I plan to level a bedroom floor that measures 4.6m x 3.5 m = 16 m2 ish.

    I estimate 6 to 7 bags of compound. I haven't used leveling compound for years.

    Instructions says 3.64 lt of water per 20 kg bag.

    Do I have to be this accurate with the water measuring?

    Also can I mix 3 bags at a time a pour is all out, it tells me I have 30 minutes working time.

    Do i have to use a trowel or could i use something larger to make life a bit easier.

    I need to level the entire floor.

    Cheers any advice appreciated

    No you don't have to be super accurate but be as close as you can. Better to have slightly more than slightly less water.

    I'd advise you to mix as many bags as you can simultaneously. The point is that it should be very liquid and level itself, you should not have to do much else apart from pour it.


  • Options
    #3
    Hedgecutter
    Registered Users Posts: 1,030 ✭✭✭Hedgecutter


    BrokenArrows wrote: »
    No you don't have to be super accurate but be as close as you can. Better to have slightly more than slightly less water.

    I'd advise you to mix as many bags as you can simultaneously. The point is that it should be very liquid and level itself, you should not have to do much else apart from pour it.

    Cheers the worrying 1 had is mixing and troweling it on my own. Was thinking of using a floor squeegee to move around. Dont know if it would cause more problems.

    Is there a leveling compound for different thickness of appclation? Or is it all the same.


  • Options
    #4
    listermint
    Registered Users Posts: 33,737 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Go down to Lidl or Aldi buy some 5 litre jugs of water and mark the 3.75 litres with big marker on the side. This allows you to fill them quick with more accurate measurement per bag. Dump the jugs of water into your mix as you go.

    Easier to work smarter and faster than slower with this stuff.


  • Options
    #5
    Hedgecutter
    Registered Users Posts: 1,030 ✭✭✭Hedgecutter


    listermint wrote: »
    Go down to Lidl or Aldi buy some 5 litre jugs of water and mark the 3.75 litres with big marker on the side. This allows you to fill them quick with more accurate measurement per bag. Dump the jugs of water into your mix as you go.

    Easier to work smarter and faster than slower with this stuff.

    Great idea, I was planning 3 or 4 buckets but that's a better idea. Cheers


  • Options
    #6
    johnb25
    Registered Users Posts: 503 ✭✭✭johnb25


    listermint wrote: »
    Go down to Lidl or Aldi buy some 5 litre jugs of water and mark the 3.75 litres with big marker on the side. This allows you to fill them quick with more accurate measurement per bag. Dump the jugs of water into your mix as you go.

    Easier to work smarter and faster than slower with this stuff.

    Good idea with the 5 litre containers.
    You've probably figured this out by now, but 3.64 x 3 = 10.92 = 11; 2 x 5 lts + 1lt.


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #7
    Hedgecutter
    Registered Users Posts: 1,030 ✭✭✭Hedgecutter


    johnb25 wrote: »
    Good idea with the 5 litre containers.
    You've probably figured this out by now, but 3.64 x 3 = 10.92 = 11; 2 x 5 lts + 1lt.


    I hadn't so thanks. Mixing 3 bags at a time, wont back fire on me once I get the measuring right?


  • Options
    #8
    BrokenArrows
    Registered Users Posts: 7,500 ✭✭✭BrokenArrows


    Hedgecutter wrote: »
    I hadn't so thanks. Mixing 3 bags at a time, wont back fire on me once I get the measuring right?

    No it wont. I did 2.5 bags at a time a few years ago (Its all that would fit in my mixing bucket). Everything was fine.


  • Options
    #9
    Hedgecutter
    Registered Users Posts: 1,030 ✭✭✭Hedgecutter


    BrokenArrows wrote: »
    No it wont. I did 2.5 bags at a time a few years ago (Its all that would fit in my mixing bucket). Everything was fine.


    Great thanks.


  • Options
    #10
    Shaunoc
    Registered Users Posts: 521 ✭✭✭Shaunoc


    A drill paddle mixer for speed as it goes off quick
    Cheap


  • Options
    #11
    Hedgecutter
    Registered Users Posts: 1,030 ✭✭✭Hedgecutter


    Shaunoc wrote: »
    A drill paddle mixer for speed as it goes off quick
    Cheap

    I have one, SDS drill as well. Thanks


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #12
    Hedgecutter
    Registered Users Posts: 1,030 ✭✭✭Hedgecutter


    Another question maybe someone can help. The room floor I want to level is reasonable good apart from one section (about 2 square meters) which is rough and low in places (15 to 20mm in patches)

    There are two types of leveling compound, one up to 6mm deep and another up to 50mm deep.

    Could I use both on the floor, the deep one in the rough area and the shallow one on the good area?

    Has anyone ever tried this, they should join ok where the meet?


  • Options
    #13
    listermint
    Registered Users Posts: 33,737 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Yes in a nutshell.


  • Options
    #14
    karlitob
    Registered Users Posts: 2,586 ✭✭✭karlitob


    listermint wrote: »
    Yes in a nutshell.

    Quick question - I presume we’re talking about concrete floors.
    What would you do with sub floors if you wanted them flat to lay tile?
    Or have I asked a totally stupid question?


  • Options
    #15
    listermint
    Registered Users Posts: 33,737 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    karlitob wrote: »
    Quick question - I presume we’re talking about concrete floors.
    What would you do with sub floors if you wanted them flat to lay tile?
    Or have I asked a totally stupid question?

    Are you talking about leveling a suspended floor ? or a 1st floor with joists below ?

    If yes, i would put in Ply/OSB or Mag board which is levelled out by shimming.


  • Options
    #16
    karlitob
    Registered Users Posts: 2,586 ✭✭✭karlitob


    listermint wrote: »
    Are you talking about leveling a suspended floor ? or a 1st floor with joists below ?

    If yes, i would put in Ply/OSB or Mag board which is levelled out by shimming.

    First floor with joists and ground floor also.

    A silly question now that I think about it.

    Is there a way to firm up the subfloor - ours is fine but I wonder how firm sub floors can be. I always like the hardness of a concrete floor. Wonder how close you can get to that with a wooden suspended floor.


  • Options
    #17
    listermint
    Registered Users Posts: 33,737 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    karlitob wrote: »
    First floor with joists and ground floor also.

    A silly question now that I think about it.

    Is there a way to firm up the subfloor - ours is fine but I wonder how firm sub floors can be. I always like the hardness of a concrete floor. Wonder how close you can get to that with a wooden suspended floor.

    Yes definitely. If you want to put in a bathroom or bath and keep it setup with best foot forward, i would recommend lifting the floor below the shower or bath area and adding additional noggins between the joists. This will strenghten those joist from wobble or bounce, then put the flooring back down. Testing it all as you go.


  • Options
    #18
    Derrick Rose
    Registered Users Posts: 6 ✭Derrick Rose


    Hedgecutter wrote: »
    Another question maybe someone can help. The room floor I want to level is reasonable good apart from one section (about 2 square meters) which is rough and low in places (15 to 20mm in patches)

    There are two types of leveling compound, one up to 6mm deep and another up to 50mm deep.

    Could I use both on the floor, the deep one in the rough area and the shallow one on the good area?

    Has anyone ever tried this, they should join ok where the meet?

    We did this for the first time this year as amateurs with some advice from builders. First advise would be to use the fast set 50mm flexible stuff in the deepest areas first and let it set. Then do your final thinner layer over this and the whole floor with the slow set 6mm stuff in one go. Much cheaper this way and gives you more time for the final finish. The fast set goes off in minutes so you need to have everything ready, no second chances. Use watered down pva on the floor first to seal the floor, if you don't do this you get loads of bubbles as it's setting. Work the fast set gently with a trowel straight away into the areas you need it but it finds its own way generally. With the top layer mark off your final level around the sides and on nails in the center and work from the corners to the door. Make sure to block off the door to stop it creeping out. It's a pretty easy job but the key is in the prep. Having someone to mix while you spread is a great help. Mix it for a good 5 mins but try to not make bubbles, water in first then half the bag, mix, then the other half, mix for 5. Use at least 2 buckets to mix it so you always have another one ready to keep it even. Good luck.


Advertisement