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Advice on sticking copper sheeting to plywood

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  • 03-10-2020 6:31pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 3,387 ✭✭✭


    I ordered some 1.2mm satin finished copper sheets to make a backsplash, and could do with some advice re. what type of adhesive or resin is the best to use.


    The wall space I want to fit the copper to is 2100mm wide x 750mm high. The plan is to cut 3 no. pieces of 6mm plywood, trim to fit exactly (allowing for 1-2mm to wrap the copper around the edges where the 3 plywood pieces meet) and to cut out for the cooker switch & sockets before I stick the copper on. I don't want to stick the copper directly to the plaster board as it is not 100% flat, not an issue with the ply which I can then attach with construction adhesive like gripfill or the like.


    From googling about, it look like the best options are to use resin or contact cement. I have never used contact cement, and I can't find a resin brand someone has used on this side of the pond-most stuff online mentions US brands..


    Has anyone done similar, and if so what did you use?





    Thanks.


Comments

  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,306 ✭✭✭bobbyy gee


    Stick copper to wall with glue


  • Registered Users Posts: 164 ✭✭jimbev


    I'm sure a spray adhesive would suffice for this


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,361 ✭✭✭jack of all


    I've done work with copper in the past. A spray contact adhesive will do the job, like what carpet fitters use to stick down floor coverings. The technique would be similar to that used for bonding formica laminates, using dowels/ light spacers to hold the sheet above the substrate and allow for repositioning before final placement- should be plenty of videos for that on youtube.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,506 ✭✭✭the_pen_turner


    i would go for a poiurithane glue over the contact .contact is heat senitive and i wouldnt trust it as a backsplash near a hob

    the PU would give a longer open time to allign the parts.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,850 ✭✭✭tabby aspreme


    Would there be much expansion with the copper sheet


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  • Registered Users Posts: 31,010 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    Would there be much expansion with the copper sheet

    Not heat expansion, unless you're putting a blowtorch to it. There's likely to be more expansion in the plywood from variations in humidity in the room. Whether that's enough to cause a noticable distortion in the coppered face I've no idea.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,387 ✭✭✭glynf


    Thanks for all the reply's. Think I will avoid the contact cement in case I need to tweak the position of the copper on the plywood.



    @ the_pen_turner, would a polyurethane glue like original gorilla glue do the job?


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,506 ✭✭✭the_pen_turner


    glynf wrote: »
    Thanks for all the reply's. Think I will avoid the contact cement in case I need to tweak the position of the copper on the plywood.



    @ the_pen_turner, would a polyurethane glue like original gorilla glue do the job?

    yes should do . look for the slowest curing time. get someone with you spreading.
    trial run it with clamps and weights etc to make sure your prepared.
    wear disposable gloves


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,387 ✭✭✭glynf


    Will do, thanks. Thinking of sandwiching the ply & copper with some more ply, and weighing down with a few boxes of 600 x600 floor tiles-should be a decent even clamping force.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,506 ✭✭✭the_pen_turner


    glynf wrote: »
    Will do, thanks. Thinking of sandwiching the ply & copper with some more ply, and weighing down with a few boxes of 600 x600 floor tiles-should be a decent even clamping force.

    great way to do it . make sure you put everything on something flat so it sets flat with all that weight.
    i made that mishap before and created a curved and twisted door:o:o


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 348 ✭✭Trouser Snake


    Be interested to see how it turns out Glynf, good luck with it!


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,387 ✭✭✭glynf


    Finally got a chance to finish it, very happy with the way it turned out:

    pkqO3xsl.jpg

    ME8cAlml.jpg

    ZfZXD5Il.jpg

    fgoRPmql.jpg

    ycah3bRl.jpg

    The factory edges were spot on, so I used some 5mm ply to make templates and a track saw on slowest speed to cut the three panels and a jigsaw for the socket/spur/cooker s/w cut outs-the white plastic is temporary-ordered some decent MK edge bits instead. I sanded with a RO sander up to 320 grit and sealed it with 6 light coats of rust-oleum spray on polyurethane, gave it a few days to harden before fitting.

    I stuck the copper directly to the plasterboard, using some evo-Stik Seriously Strong Stuff adhesive which worked out great as it grabs immediately and some clamps to flush up the joints.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 348 ✭✭Trouser Snake


    Have to say, that looks class. Really well done, where did you get the idea from?


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,387 ✭✭✭glynf


    Have to say, that looks class. Really well done, where did you get the idea from?


    Cheers.We were thinking about getting it done in glass first, did some research and spoke to someone I know who got theirs done and had issues with it cracking. also spoke to a glass company who since stopped installing it due to callbacks. Thought about going with stainless steel from Hafele, but the kitchen is grey and it might be a bit samey-and they had copper listed as well, though a lot more expensive. Shopped around and got three 1M sq sheets for just under €600 delivered from a company in Liverpool. Sandpaper, adhesive & poly came to €70-ish as well, the cheapest glass backsplash I got quoted was €750 so happy with that.


  • Registered Users Posts: 692 ✭✭✭jmBuildExt


    Looks great!!!

    - does it need to be earthed/bonded like a sink would?


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,387 ✭✭✭glynf


    jmBuildExt wrote: »
    Looks great!!!

    - does it need to be earthed/bonded like a sink would?


    Yes, linked with 6sqmm earth lugged & self tapped across the top of each panel and then back to the board, which will be hidden by an LED strip light along the top under the upper presses.


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