Wheel nuts - copper grease, yay or nay?

The Continental Op

I've just changed all the wheel nuts on my 10 yo focus. Wanted to get rid of the locking nuts and replace some of nuts affected with Ford Swollen Wheel Nut disease.

Anyway whenever I put wheel nuts on I put a dab of Copper Grease on the thread. I wondered if I'm the only person who ever does this. I've always (last 40 years) done this and never lost a wheel nut and never had one that I've put on be difficult to take off.

Come there must be someone out there that wants to tell me why I shouldn't do this or do you want to tell me its a really good idea?

KaneToad

I put copper grease on the hub before replacing the wheel. I've never put it on the wheel nuts.

Am watching this thread with interest!

Jb1989

The Continental Op wrote: »

I've just changed all the wheel nuts on my 10 yo focus. Wanted to get rid of the locking nuts and replace some of nuts affected with Ford Swollen Wheel Nut disease.

Anyway whenever I put wheel nuts on I put a dab of Copper Grease on the thread. I wondered if I'm the only person who ever does this. I've always (last 40 years) done this and never lost a wheel nut and never had one that I've put on be difficult to take off.

Come there must be someone out there that wants to tell me why I shouldn't do this or do you want to tell me its a really good idea?

I do it

The Continental Op

Jb1989 wrote: »

I do it

Brilliant I thought I must be the only one.

crosstownk

I put regular grease on wheel studs which seems to work like an anti-seize.

CJhaughey

Greased threads affect torque values and can lead to overtightening of wheelstuds and subsequent stretching /failure of them.
That said if you have got away with it for so long you may be OK with torque values or just lucky.
The biggest problem is usually between alloy wheel flanges bonding to the cast iron hub and a decent antiseize is usually effective at stopping this.
If I was applying it I would be very careful to apply just a small smear not big globs as copper grease can do funny things to wheel speeds sensors as it is a conductive material.

A better material for anticorrosion in my experience is Lanolin based materials, Lanocote or similar which are available in bearing shops and engineering shops.

listermint

Been doing it for years on various vehicles, nuts and alloys and steelies.

Never once had a problem

PsychoPete

I just run them in with plenty of ugga duggas

The Continental Op

CJhaughey wrote: »

Greased threads affect torque values and can lead to overtightening of wheelstuds and subsequent stretching /failure of them.
That said if you have got away with it for so long you may be OK with torque values or just lucky.
The biggest problem is usually between alloy wheel flanges bonding to the cast iron hub and a decent antiseize is usually effective at stopping this.
If I was applying it I would be very careful to apply just a small smear not big globs as copper grease can do funny things to wheel speeds sensors as it is a conductive material.

A better material for anticorrosion in my experience is Lanolin based materials, Lanocote or similar which are available in bearing shops and engineering shops.

I'm really not sure about the overtightening? What is the maximum torque you can apply with a normal wheel brace?

My technique would be to use a normal length 1/2 inch ratchet drive to tighten nuts and do them no tighter than I can pull with one hand.

For removing anything is fair game.

My impact tool claims to be capable of applying 950Nm but I wouldn't be that daft to use it to tighten wheel nuts.

PsychoPete

The Continental Op wrote: »

My impact tool claims to be capable of applying 950Nm but I wouldn't be that daft to use it to tighten wheel nuts.

Using an impact gun to tighten wheel nuts shouldn't be a problem

The Continental Op

PsychoPete wrote: »

Using an impact gun to tighten wheel nuts shouldn't be a problem

It is when some garages do it! Thats when you get problems at the side of the road and can't get the nuts off.

If my impact driver can do 950Nm and my wheel nuts are supposed to be at 130Nm then I suspect the impact driver could overtighten them.

Standard sockets can start breaking around 300Nm and I have broken sockets removing wheel nuts.

CJhaughey

PsychoPete wrote: »

Using an impact gun to tighten wheel nuts shouldn't be a problem

It is.
I have replaced enough broken and stretched ones to know that an unskilled operator with a heavy duty airgun is a danger to them.
950nm is far more than any wheel stud for cars and LGV's use.
My car specs 108nm, the Amarok is 180nm , 950nm is going to do damage if used without due care and attention.

PsychoPete

One of my impact guns is 950 and the other is around 1300nm but you are only running them until they are tight then torque to 110 or whatever the spec is

galwaytt

PsychoPete wrote: »

Using an impact gun to tighten wheel nuts shouldn't be a problem

Oh it absolutely is the wrong way to tighten a wheel nut.

There are proper battery/pneumatic guns that would do it properly, but I can gaurantee you no garage will spend the thousands - yes, thousands - for one of those.

By hand, with/without a manual torque wrench only. You're supposed to be able to open them by hand remember......

Cee-Jay-Cee

I had copper grease spray and always squirt a bit into each but before fitting them. Have always done it and never had a problem.

fancy pigeon

Mating face yes, threads/bolts/nuts no


Don't use an impact gun when tightening up your wheel, I've replaced too many studs over the years. Hubs, rarely but I have had to once or twice


Try removing an Iveco Daily stud with the standard brace, even with copper grease on the threads and see how far you'll get


What do I do myself? Keep the mating faces clean, light smear of grease, hand tight and torqued with a torque ratchet I keep in the boot

Sam Quentin

Do my own brakes..and for years have used copper grease on nuts,,no issues.. I always remove the studs with my 12V impact driver but don't tighten with the driver,just start and nearly send them home..drop the car then tighten with the wheel brace.