Cut a door saddle board in situ

tombrown

I am putting in laminate flooring, and to get it flush to the height of the saddle board in the doorway I need to cut the front edge off the saddle board, in line with the door frame. Trying to figure out how to do this without removing (& probably breaking) the saddle board.


I did think about cutting the flooring to fit around the existing saddle board, but then there would be a height difference


Ideas or alternative approaches, welcome.

shanec1928

Sounds like a Multi tool job

amadangomor

I've used a reciprocating saw for this. A chisel may also help.

tombrown

Thanks. I'd thought of a chisel, but not sure i trust myself to cut a smooth straight line with one. Dont have a reciprocating saw, but I have a broken Dremil I may try & fix (or replace) and use a cutting disc

mick121

Use a chisel,go slowly.Mark the line and stay about 4/5mm away to see what way the grain is splitting,then finish off.slow and steady is the key,but if you can borrow a multi tool that's way better than the chisel

tombrown

Thanks - I'll try that, or I may splash out on a basic multi tool to replace the old dremill, as I do need one.

I just thought of something ... I'm supposed to leave a 1/2" gap all around when laying the boards to allow for expansion; I can cover that up with edging between the boards and the skirting all around the room, but obviously not at the door. If I forego the gap at the door & lay it tight, will it be OK?

I ran laminate tight to a saddle only recently and after 3/4 weeks I had to go back and cut relief and cover with a transition strip.
The ends of my boards were perpendicular to the saddle, parallel might act differently.

Lumen

I would use a good sharp chisel. The trick is to first score the line heavily using a straight edge and a stanley knife, then the chisel will sit nicely into the groove.

You're far more likely to make a mess with a multi tool, and a reciprocating saw is...brave.

Multi tools vibrate far too much to make neat finish cuts in my experience.

Actually, I'd probably use a circular saw for most of the length and then finish the ends with a chisel, but again you're more likely to make a mess with any kind of power tool.

The Mulk

What's on the other side of the saddle,

I've removed all mine when putting down floors and just used transition strips.
They can be a pig to get out, you have to break them

tombrown

Carpet in the hallway, so don't want to remove the saddle

keithdub

I would remove the saddle board all together

The Mulk

tombrown wrote: »

Carpet in the hallway, so don't want to remove the saddle

Yeah, sometimes the carpet is cut short, i usually replace with something like this and fix into the sub floor
https://www.screwfix.ie/p/zig-zag-door-strip-aluminium-0-9m-x-42mm/23285

Plenty of other options

Dremel sounds the best bet, if you have to cut it

fiacha

Variable speed multi-tool with a segmented cutting blade is a godsend for jobs like this.

As already mentioned, the key to jobs like this is using a straight edge and Stanley blade to score a clean line. It cuts the surface fibres so you are less likely to get tear-out and it gives the blade a track to follow.
Lower the cutting speed and take your time following the line. You will get a perfectly good cut that can be cleaned up with a bit of sandpaper.

Personally, I'd lift the saddle board and fit a transition strip between the carpet and the laminate. One side has barbs that grip the carpet and the other is smooth to allow for the expansion gap.

tombrown

Thanks for all the advice.

I'm not sure about the transition strip idea (though it does have its appeal) as this is the middle of 3 bedroom doors all fairly close together (one on the same wall, one on a perpendicular wall, and as the other two will still have saddle boards I think a strip will look out of place.

So I'm going to try cut the board, and if all else fails can use the strip as a backup option

Lumen

In additional to scoring the line, if you are using a multi-tool with a segmented blade you might use a fence (e.g. a block of wood) to help guide the blade. Even if it wanders, it can then only wander one way. Maybe get a helper to stand on it to give you two hands free for the tool.

A flush cut hand saw would also do it and would be much cheaper (like a tenner).

Calahonda52

You can get a semicircular blade for the multi tool which acts like a small circular saw: its very effective but hates nails and grit as the teeth are very fine.

shown here:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/LANIAKEA-Oscillating-Multitool-Multimaster-Craftsman/dp/B071G53N8G

fiacha

tombrown wrote: »

Thanks for all the advice.

I'm not sure about the transition strip idea (though it does have its appeal) as this is the middle of 3 bedroom doors all fairly close together (one on the same wall, one on a perpendicular wall, and as the other two will still have saddle boards I think a strip will look out of place.

Fair point, I also just realised that the transition would likely have to sit way out from the door in order to meet the existing carpet.

You can put a trasistion strip between the new floor and the saddle.
You will have to if the floor "pops" up because of lack of expansion gap (like mine did!).

LenWoods

Dremel style tool with small blades,