Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

Stairs bullnose riser trim/cladding

Options
  • 13-08-2020 7:46pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 61 ✭✭


    Don't know if this is correct forum but thought woodcraft might have some ideas to help!


    Currently have engineered wood flooring in my hall and I am painting the stairs which involved removing carpet (runner only will be going in place when finished with painted riser/threads). After removing the existing carpet there is some large gapping where the flooring meets the bullnose riser at the stairs. Have added some photos to better show the issue. Had thought installer had done a neater job but carpet was only partially lifted and tacked back to cover.



    Have come up with 4 potential solutions. Any that sound the most suited or any other ideas?


    1) additional plywood or mdf bullnose riser secured to stairs to cover the gapping. Will need to ensure profile can match the bullnose thread and enough overhang left. Example - https://www.thinktimberonline.co.uk/shop/trade/bullnose-risers/


    2) similarly use bending/flexi ply across the riser to cover the gap. Potentially could only use 5mm to get around the radius on the bullnose so would need 2 or 3 layers.


    3) use a flexible moulding or trim where existing riser meets the floor. Example - https://www.quick-step.ie/en-ie/accessories/qsflexskr_flexible-paintable-skirting


    4) using same wood flooring off cuts to fill gapping and with a similar colour filler to cover remaining gaps. Floor is prefinished engineered so getting a clean finish with the filler could be messy.


    Any input would be appreciated as at a bit of a loss for the cleanest result!


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 12,195 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    Has the new floor reduced the net depth of the first riser?
    Iff you have the tools you could square off the crooked cut by coming out nearly the width of the pieces and fit a clean piece against the riser

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users Posts: 61 ✭✭Type 901


    Has the new floor reduced the net depth of the first riser?
    Iff you have the tools you could square off the crooked cut by coming out nearly the width of the pieces and fit a clean piece against the riser


    Yes riser measuring about 70mm from concrete subfloor to beginning of first thread. This is down to about 48mm with the new floor.



    I had thought about a single block/piece border around the bullnose riser, similar to the picture. If this was your thinking? Tools would be the issue here, thought I would need a plunge saw with track to get correct lines cut and don't have access to one. Unless another way of attacking?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,428 ✭✭✭quietsailor


    Type 901 wrote: »
    Yes riser measuring about 70mm from concrete subfloor to beginning of first thread. This is down to about 48mm with the new floor.



    I had thought about a single block/piece border around the bullnose riser, similar to the picture. If this was your thinking? Tools would be the issue here, thought I would need a plunge saw with track to get correct lines cut and don't have access to one. Unless another way of attacking?

    I don't think a plunge saw will be able to get in close to the existing riser, especially with the overhang from the first step. An oscillating saw would be smaller and fit in there better BUT!

    1. It will be slow, slow, and even slower. If you're using one buy the best blades possible - Dewalt, Bosch, Fein level. Not Woodies or B&Q - that looks like a hardwood and oscillating saws are slow to cut at best compared to all other saws.

    2. Put down a straight edge - maybe a piece of ply - as the the oscillating saw will kick at some stage when your attention wanders and could scratch the floor finish. The straight edge will also give a neater line than trying to freehand along a pencil line. Unfortunately you'll have to use a pencil line going around the corner of the riser - maybe take a break before you tackle that part, it really doesn't tkae much for the an oscillating saw to ride up & out of the cut and across your floor finish :mad:


  • Registered Users Posts: 879 ✭✭✭woodturner


    You can get flexi-ply which could be bent around the bottom rise and pinned in place.


Advertisement