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Self build garden shed.

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  • 22-07-2020 1:40pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 12,240 ✭✭✭✭


    This is not as advanced as Lumen's but he gave me the idea.
    .
    So looking at making my own, subject to shiplap arriving this week. all the rest is pressure treated in in stock.

    The footprint is 2.4 by 2.4 to maximise the use of the 4.8 lengths.

    Floor.
    18mm OSB on 75 by 44 joists at 400 centres on concrete blocks on an 804 base. [Base in place.]
    .
    Sides:
    150 by 22 shiplap on 50 by 44 frame at 400 centres.
    6 6" eaves internally., will allow normal roof trusses to tie walls


    Roof structure:
    Plan A
    Conventional A roof, will make the roof trusses.

    Plan B
    Make it a lean-to, with 75 by 44 rafters 400 centres.[ 8' span]
    Min height 6'6"

    Roof finish:
    Metal cladding, which I have
    on 2 by 1 slating lathes
    on
    some wind proof membrane off cuts
    on
    22mm T&G

    lean-to is attractive as I will be working on my own, my two man work neighbour was killed in a car smash 10 days ago.

    Any thoughts?
    Thanks as always.

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 31,019 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    Sorry about your neighbour.

    Not sure what you're using it for, but my far my best decision was opting for a ridge beam rather than a ridge board.

    The extra overhead clear space is incredibly useful, and you can hang stuff off the beam.

    It's not any harder, and since your span is short and the roof is light a 9x2 or 3 or whatever would probably do it so you don't need any expensive timber.


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,240 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    Lumen wrote: »
    Sorry about your neighbour.

    Not sure what you're using it for, but my far my best decision was opting for a ridge beam rather than a ridge board.

    The extra overhead clear space is incredibly useful, and you can hang stuff off the beam.

    It's not any harder, and since your span is short and the roof is light a 9x2 or 3 or whatever would probably do it so you don't need any expensive timber.

    Thanks for the kind words.

    Its mainly storage.

    My plan was to have an ope over the door for sliding in long lengths.

    So basically no collars?

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users Posts: 31,019 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    So basically no collars?
    Yeah, like this (but this is overbuilt for what you need).

    4db650b78db5a5e2f9edab049b59583ae910ce4b_sm1.jpg

    Although the downside is that because you would have a king post running down to the door lintel, you can't have the opening above the door you want.


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    I would be curious to see how the sums stack up against buying a shed. Lumber prices are crazy high, in my opinion anyway. Half tempted to get an Alaskan bush mill setup and a planer/thicknesser, then go roaming the countryside after storms.


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,240 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    I would be curious to see how the sums stack up against buying a shed. Lumber prices are crazy high, in my opinion anyway. Half tempted to get an Alaskan bush mill setup and a planer/thicknesser, then go roaming the countryside after storms.

    I am crunching the numbers,
    ...............length.......cost..No....total
    ship lap.....4.8..........12.50 35 €437.92
    OSB Floor................20.00 2 €40.00
    side framing 4.8 6.00 18 €108.00
    rafters ........4.8 9.00 5 €45.00
    collars 4.8 ........6.00 4 €24.00
    floor joists 4.8 ........9.00 5 €45.00
    €699.92

    ao not much in it, much check delivery again tomorrow

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 12,240 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    Lumen, thanks for the sketch, the bird mouth would be a bit of a pain.
    I made trusses for the garden cloches so have all the angles and connections figured out and will just mass produce them first and have them ready, unless Chillyspoon would run them off in the 3 D printer :D

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users Posts: 12,240 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    So having priced it up as shown above there is not much in it.

    To reduce waste I think I will go for the flat roof. make the all 4 sides the same 2.4m high so as to be 1/2 the 4.8 and then make two triangles for the sloping sides and a rectangular piece for the front

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,888 ✭✭✭cletus


    Is there any chance of a breakdown of your numbers? If you don't mind putting it up here, that is


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,240 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    cletus wrote: »
    Is there any chance of a breakdown of your numbers? If you don't mind putting it up here, that is

    they are 2 posts up
    all timber is 4.8 so each side is 2.4
    framing / collars are 50 by 44 at 400 centres at 6 euro a length
    joists / rafters are 75 by 44 at 400 at 9
    2 sheet osb at 20

    ship lap, 35 lengths os at 12.5: they cover a net 120 mm

    I have the metal roof.
    nothing in for slating lathes /screws/nails/other hardware

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users Posts: 33,739 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Weatherproof roll ? Insulation? Windows ? Foundation?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,334 ✭✭✭J.R.


    listermint wrote: »
    Weatherproof roll ? Insulation? Windows ? Foundation?

    plus electrics - sockets and lights, if required.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,956 ✭✭✭Padre_Pio


    J.R. wrote: »
    plus electrics - sockets and lights, if required.

    Not to mention the tools, mitre saw, jigsaw, tracksaw if you're fancy...

    Flooring perhaps, interior board...


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,240 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    Flooring in included, base is in, have enough tools

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users Posts: 12,240 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    Okay so the 4 sides are up, will post a picture later, too dark when I got home.
    It is a standalone lean-to and the plan is to roof it with some sort of "corrugated iron", with a perspex sheet in the middle for light.
    its highest at the back and I will overhang the front.
    So whats the best way too do the front and sides:
    Do I need to have the roof extend beyond the walls to create a nice clear drip edge at the back and the two sides.
    The coloured box profile stuff, at 3.4 m long is good but the shed is only 2.1 m deep, its 2.4 m wide.
    ...
    image uploaded.

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users Posts: 12,240 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    So image uploaded above, big shortage of roofing material in Nenagh, only one sheet of corrugated perspex!

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users Posts: 31,019 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    I think you can buy oversized sheets of polycarbonate which would enable you to do the whole roof with a single sheet.


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,240 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    Thanks, delivery cost is a problem with that idea.
    my current thinking is to put in 4 by 2 rafters at 400 centres, with one outside each side, flush with top of existing sides,
    and then
    1. sheet it with OSB
    2. flash the 4 sides with the barge flashing as per some u tube videos
    3. then breather membrane
    4. then counter battens/battens
    5. some green corrugated iron which will over hang the front
    6. put in a motion sensored LED as its only for storage and not a workshop.
    7. It will be used for storing some wood pellets so don't need drips!

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users Posts: 12,240 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    Roof was pricey enough
    150 for the sheeting and flashing and fixings
    OSB was 60
    4*2 were forty
    slating lathes ..need to check
    OSB was probably over kill but was made working on the roof a lot safer than if just the bare rafters.

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



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