Is It Safe ....?

Stigura

Sorry. I've got to ask!

Year or two ago now, the top of my ancient chest freezer was an offence to the eye. It's been my tea making / general doing stuff surface for fifteen years. Ye can imagine.

So, I stripped it and wire brushed it and so on. Sought and bought the 'proper' primer and paint. Took days. Couldn't breath for the fumes. But, I got it immaculately white again. I was so happy

In probably less than a week, a spot appeared. Spots. A blemish! Before I knew it; Square one! God, how I swore!

Well, it's been eating at me. I tried again. Stripped it back to bare metal, with a belt sander And a drill brush ~ for the hollows. Two coats of smooth, white Hammerite, as per instructions on the tin. Perfection!

But now, it's like waiting for a scan result, or something! I obsess over it. Every pin prick of non white it peered at. Wiped. Thankfully, they all come off. But, I'm terrified that one will stay. Grow .....

What does the DIY Massive think? Is it safe? Can I relax? I'm even thinking about a Third coat. Because, I dunno: Some areas just don't have that deep, solid whiteness. There's always been bits where the brush strokes just .....

Vita nova

Most appliances have a powder coated finish and it would be very hard to reproduce the same smooth hard-wearing surface with brushed-on or even sprayed-on on paint. My advice is to cover what you've got with some oil cloth covering (essentially water-proof, wipeable table cloth). You can probably buy it by the metre in Hickey's or some DIY places and it comes plain or patterned.

Stigura

Thanks, Vita Nova. So; Ye suggesting I cover the actual lid, to save it from further, 'working' damage?

I've actually made roads in that direction. I bought a white, plastic 'drip tray' thing. I now put that down and put my tea mug on it. Result being that 1. Being plastic, it won't hurt the paint. 2. Being white, it blends with 'the look'. 3. Obviously, it saves any minor spillage touching the new paint.

Over all, I'm happy as Larry with my new lid and regimen. I've turned a corner and am working on cleaning up my act.

I'm just living on my nerves that what ever's beneath it may ever ~ soon ~ break through the Hammerite, like it did the other stuff.

Instructions say not. This stuff should block even rust. But, 'Once Bitten ...'

Hammerite is a terrible choice of product for that job unless you used the appliance enamel. Even then, it’s not great stuff.

If you used regular hammerite smooth white, expect it to reject another coat at some stage if you get the recoat timing or application temperature wrong.

Is it safe? Once it’s fully cured (about a month), yes. Expect it to off-gas for weeks until then.

If it all goes wrong, get a piece of oilskin table cloth as suggested and give up on repainting a 15 year old appliance. It’s a waste of time, effort and materials.

Vita nova

Stigura wrote: »

Thanks, Vita Nova. So; Ye suggesting I cover the actual lid, to save it from further, 'working' damage?

I've actually made roads in that direction. I bought a white, plastic 'drip tray' thing. I now put that down and put my tea mug on it. Result being that 1. Being plastic, it won't hurt the paint. 2. Being white, it blends with 'the look'. 3. Obviously, it saves any minor spillage touching the new paint.

Over all, I'm happy as Larry with my new lid and regimen. I've turned a corner and am working on cleaning up my act.

I'm just living on my nerves that what ever's beneath it may ever ~ soon ~ break through the Hammerite, like it did the other stuff.

Instructions say not. This stuff should block even rust. But, 'Once Bitten ...'

The oil cloth will protect the lid from further damage but its main purpose is to create a low-cost clean waterproof wipeable surface. When the oil cloth wears out or gets damaged you can just replace it. However, it wouldn't be a suitable surface for heavy work involving heavy tools, materials or parts.

You should be able to get white oil cloth to match 'the look' as you say.