WTD Diy bike help.

FMG

I am due out of hospital next week and to keep busy will try do an upgrade to my Specialised Rockhopper ( maybe mid 90's). Total newbie but it might work out as a commute if I can do a bit of an upgrade. I'm looking for ideas on tools, books to get for help. Also any parts I should keep an eye out for if the pop up for sale here.

FMG

FMG wrote: »

I am due out of hospital next week and to keep busy will try do an upgrade to my Specialised Rockhopper ( maybe mid 90's). Total newbie but it might work out as a commute if I can do a bit of an upgrade. I'm looking for ideas on tools, books to get for help. Also any parts I should keep an eye out for if the pop up for sale here.

Pics added

cletus

What's the end goal? Do you want to strip the frame completely, do a full clean and rebuild? Or just change cables and chain and get it back on the road?

8valve

Firstly, get well soon.

Secondly, that'll make a nice comfy commute bike. Proper old school American MTB.

A full set of cables and a new chain will make a big difference to braking/gearshifting.

Maybe consider a set of good quality, puncture resistant, tarmac tyres if using for commuting, instead of the standard knobbly tyres; smoother, less noise and less rolling resistance, so energy saving! Schwalbe marathon or similar. Plenty of options.

Park Tool do a ''Big Blue Book of bicycle repair'', which many bike mechanics use as a reference guide, as it is fairly comprehensive and has lots of clear photos. Usually retails for around 25-30 quid.

Park Tool and 'RJ the Bike guy'' have hundreds of how-to videos between them on Youtube, clearly explaining 99.9% of jobs you can do on a bicycle.

And of course, feel free to ask on here; there's plenty of us spanner-wielders around.

Have fun!

FMG

cletus wrote: »

What's the end goal? Do you want to strip the frame completely, do a full clean and rebuild? Or just change cables and chain and get it back on the road?

I suppose due to it being a first attempt at bike diy I might opt for the cable/ chain for a start although it does have a stuck seat post that I have been oiling for week with no luck at freeing. Is it just a matter of ordering some 9 speed stuff and generic cables or will I be better to get shimano or top end bits on my first attempt

FMG

8valve wrote: »

Firstly, get well soon.

Secondly, that'll make a nice comfy commute bike. Proper old school American MTB.

A full set of cables and a new chain will make a big difference to braking/gearshifting.

Maybe consider a set of good quality, puncture resistant, tarmac tyres if using for commuting, instead of the standard knobbly tyres; smoother, less noise and less rolling resistance, so energy saving! Schwalbe marathon or similar. Plenty of options.

Park Tool do a ''Big Blue Book of bicycle repair'', which many bike mechanics use as a reference guide, as it is fairly comprehensive and has lots of clear photos. Usually retails for around 25-30 quid.

Park Tool and 'RJ the Bike guy'' have hundreds of how-to videos between them on Youtube, clearly explaining 99.9% of jobs you can do on a bicycle.

And of course, feel free to ask on here; there's plenty of us spanner-wielders around.

Have fun!

Thank you,
Thats great it helps to know it will do the job of good commute. I be at home a while and think this is as much of a bike I'll be using from here on so I will get the book and tyres.
I started with RJ before hos just to get to know the names of stuff and also gave it a bit of a cleaning, thank you
Also I will be back for help and appreciate the tips.

Whatwicklow

I squeezed a pair of road wheels in a similar frame and used it as a cx bike. The 700c wheels were way better than the 26" on the road

cletus

FMG wrote: »

Thank you,
Thats great it helps to know it will do the job of good commute. I be at home a while and think this is as much of a bike I'll be using from here on so I will get the book and tyres.
I started with RJ before hos just to get to know the names of stuff and also gave it a bit of a cleaning, thank you
Also I will be back for help and appreciate the tips.

Regarding tools, buy them as you need them for a specific job, it's a great way to build up a good collection.

FMG

Whatwicklow wrote: »

I squeezed a pair of road wheels in a similar frame and used it as a cx bike. The 700c wheels were way better than the 26" on the road

Great job, i'll prob need to increase suspension on mine but its great to be able to do this stuff.

Whatwicklow

FMG wrote: »

Great job, i'll prob need to increase suspension on mine but its great to be able to do this stuff.

If your thinking of doing it you will need small aluminium blocks to realign the back brakes, I have spares here if you want. Rigid road fork and you now have a great commuter bike

magicbastarder

moved to the main forum, it's more an advice thread than a wanted ad.

FMG

To be fair, when cleaned up the bike looks good. I will fit a new chain and rear cassette with a few other small jobs. I'm not in a rush as cycling is out for me atm. The main job is the seat post, I have been spaying and dripping oil into the the tube for a few weeks but cannot shift it, even with a 5' tube on an adjustable spanner.
What would be the best way to remove the seatpost, maybe drill a hole and try insert a bar and hammer/twist to break the seal or cut above the frame and try cut downwards into the last 6-7" with a hacksaw blade ( this could take a while)?.
Any suggestions are very welcome.

cletus

FMG wrote: »

To be fair, when cleaned up the bike looks good. I will fit a new chain and rear cassette with a few other small jobs. I'm not in a rush as cycling is out for me atm. The main job is the seat post, I have been spaying and dripping oil into the the tube for a few weeks but cannot shift it, even with a 5' tube on an adjustable spanner.
What would be the best way to remove the seatpost, maybe drill a hole and try insert a bar and hammer/twist to break the seal or cut above the frame and try cut downwards into the last 6-7" with a hacksaw blade ( this could take a while)?.
Any suggestions are very welcome.

Do you have access to a bench vice? If you do, clamp the seat post in the vice and rotate the frame around it

8valve

FMG wrote: »

To be fair, when cleaned up the bike looks good. I will fit a new chain and rear cassette with a few other small jobs. I'm not in a rush as cycling is out for me atm. The main job is the seat post, I have been spaying and dripping oil into the the tube for a few weeks but cannot shift it, even with a 5' tube on an adjustable spanner.
What would be the best way to remove the seatpost, maybe drill a hole and try insert a bar and hammer/twist to break the seal or cut above the frame and try cut downwards into the last 6-7" with a hacksaw blade ( this could take a while)?.
Any suggestions are very welcome.

There are a few methods: heat, cold, acid, mechanical brute force....Google 'stuck seat post removal' and work your way up from the mild to the extreme

2 Wheels Good

I finished a rebuild of my '92 mountain bike during lockdown. I ended up doing a full strip and respray. Converted it from a 3x7 to a 1x10.
GCN did a garbage to gravel series and it was great for tips. This is the first video

FMG

cletus wrote: »

Do you have access to a bench vice? If you do, clamp the seat post in the vice and rotate the frame around it

8valve wrote: »

There are a few methods: heat, cold, acid, mechanical brute force....Google 'stuck seat post removal' and work your way up from the mild to the extreme

Thanks, I dont have a vice but will sound out a few pals. I'll try this first it would be great if it works. If not I'll check out Google.

cletus

Where abouts are you based? If your close enough to me, you can try it in my shed

8valve

2 Wheels Good wrote: »

I finished a rebuild of my '92 mountain bike during lockdown. I ended up doing a full strip and respray. Converted it from a 3x7 to a 1x10.
GCN did a garbage to gravel series and it was great for tips. This is the first video

Just watched the videos; very interesting. Thank you!



I'm actually doing this currently with an old magnesium-frame Kirk Revolution MTB.


Keeping it simple with a 1x9 drivetrain, using a modern 105 11speed long-cage mech and a friction bar-end shifter...mainly because that was what I had in the spare parts pile!

FMG

cletus wrote: »

Where abouts are you based? If your close enough to me, you can try it in my shed

Thank you Cletus, I'm in Cork city.

cletus

FMG wrote: »

Thank you Cletus, I'm in Cork city.

Well I'm in Kildare, so that fecks that

FMG

cletus wrote: »

Well I'm in Kildare, so that fecks that

:D:D Thanks for the offer, I'll get sorted by a friend.

woody33

There's a "Retro MTB" Facebook group you might find interesting.

saccades

8valve wrote: »

Just watched the videos; very interesting. Thank you!



I'm actually doing this currently with an old magnesium-frame Kirk Revolution MTB.


Keeping it simple with a 1x9 drivetrain, using a modern 105 11speed long-cage mech and a friction bar-end shifter...mainly because that was what I had in the spare parts pile!

Nice and niche bike - serious reputation for snapping though.

FMG

8valve wrote: »

There are a few methods: heat, cold, acid, mechanical brute force....Google 'stuck seat post removal' and work your way up from the mild to the extreme

So true and I had to try each of them plus a few others. being stuck at home with time on my hands probably saved the bike from the skip .
I have a few pics but having a bit of a dose uploading. I will post as soon as I figure it out.
Think I have some pics sorted. So after freezing, heating, using oils, oven cleaner .lump hammer etc I decided to cut the post down to within an inch and then cut down with a hacksaw.( never again)
Anyway got it out after almost ruining the bike with burnt paintwork and flared seat tube. Went around to a few LBS for a seat-tube but it needs to be ordered in. I'll leave it at that for a while, might totally destroy it if I try repainting.
Thanks for the help lads

Sorry looks like pics are not showing.