DIY insulation on steeltech shed

bungaro79

Hi all
looking into getting a 4m x 3m Steeltech shed at the side of the house. We were quoted the usual extras and to insulate it came to nearly €1200. So I'm wondering if this is a job that you could do yourself and reduce the costs? If anyone on here has done it I'd love to hear the process.
Thanks

dok_golf

Ya , I did it on mine including the floor. ( 5 x 3 shed). Its very easily done, just need rigid insulation board and a couple of tubes of glue for the roof panel slabs. Insulation & glue cost me about 500 euro if memory serves

bungaro79

Thanks. I'm after ordering it without and will do later on if needs be

Calahonda52

Whats the ventilation strategy if its a DIY insulation job?

bungaro79

Calahonda52 wrote: »

Whats the ventilation strategy if its a DIY insulation job?

That was the main thing I was hoping to find out on here Calahonda! As it'll just be a shed for garden stuff I'm wondering if it would even be needed to be insulated

un5byh7sqpd2x0

Steeltech sheds already are somewhat insulated, the extra they sell is Kingspan insulated. If it’s just a garden shed, you don’t need Kingspan.

Pod123

We are in the process of getting one of these with the insulation as we want to use it as a garden/summer house.
It’s going to have the kingspang insulation,but I would like to do a tongue and groove finish after.
What is the best way to do this??
Thanks in advance

Calahonda52

bungaro79 wrote: »

That was the main thing I was hoping to find out on here Calahonda! As it'll just be a shed for garden stuff I'm wondering if it would even be needed to be insulated

I don't think so, it has a fairly lining to stop condensation and just keep it well ventilated.
Insulation only make sense when you have a heat source, due to a piece of science called decrement delay, if the outside temp is low enough for long enough, the shed will achieve the same temperature, through the insulation, especially the rigid PIRs/XPs's etc

looksee

I have a steeltech shed and I would like to line it with ply or OSB to make it more useful for hanging things. Would you drill and screw into the metal reinforcement struts - to support a (say 2x1) timber frame? Just something to fix the sheets to. Or is there a better approach? And would I put in some sort of moisture liner under insulation? Its pretty big so its going to require a lot of materials so I don't want to get it wrong!

Purgative

looksee wrote: »

I have a steeltech shed and I would like to line it with ply or OSB to make it more useful for hanging things. Would you drill and screw into the metal reinforcement struts - to support a (say 2x1) timber frame? Just something to fix the sheets to. Or is there a better approach? And would I put in some sort of moisture liner under insulation? Its pretty big so its going to require a lot of materials so I don't want to get it wrong!

Looksee, that's what I did. I put 4x1 boards along the struts and attached them with Tek screws. I just screwed the hooks and shelving to those boards.


I used this shelving https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0178EBXD8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1, and this bench https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B075ZYN841/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1.



They're quite flimsy but once they're anchored to the shed they're fine.

jack of all

I ply lined my shed with 1/2" ply. I wanted to minimize drilling holes into the galv. steel frame so I used a combination of tek screws and panel adhesive to fix 2x1" rough sawn battens to the frame. I then fixed 44x 38mm rough sawn battens vertically to these grounds. all the rough sawn timber was pretty poor quality (as this stuff tends to be) and required a lot of work (with shims etc) to get the framework plumb, straight and true, constantly checking against a string line and using long straightedge and level etc, but well worth the effort. I put 3/4" ply and chipboard (salvaged from other jobs) in between vertical "studs" as required for extra stiffness and as grounds to hold heavier items. Slow work, but you get into a rhythm, hardest part was planning and setting it out, but careful planning out saves on waste.

Highcontrast1

jack of all wrote: »

I ply lined my shed with 1/2" ply. I wanted to minimize drilling holes into the galv. steel frame so I used a combination of tek screws and panel adhesive to fix 2x1" rough sawn battens to the frame. I then fixed 44x 38mm rough sawn battens vertically to these grounds. all the rough sawn timber was pretty poor quality (as this stuff tends to be) and required a lot of work (with shims etc) to get the framework plumb, straight and true, constantly checking against a string line and using long straightedge and level etc, but well worth the effort. I put 3/4" ply and chipboard (salvaged from other jobs) in between vertical "studs" as required for extra stiffness and as grounds to hold heavier items. Slow work, but you get into a rhythm, hardest part was planning and setting it out, but careful planning out saves on waste.

is that an insulated roof? I am looking to buy those panels for my own garden office build

jack of all

Highcontrast1 wrote: »

is that an insulated roof? I am looking to buy those panels for my own garden office build

Yes, the whole shed is Kingspan 60mm insulated cladding.

pauldavis123

The easy way is to use Soudal Fix All to adhere the ply straight to the box cladding, make sure to run the adhesive vertically.

Fix All is incredibly strong and with ply will add substantially to the overall strength of the shed

Better is to fir out the shed using either 2" x 1" wood or metal furring channel to the structural members of the shed. You will lose more space doing this thought.

Insulation for a garden shed that is not habitat is a false economy.

jack of all

jack of all wrote: »

I ply lined my shed with 1/2" ply. I wanted to minimize drilling holes into the galv. steel frame so I used a combination of tek screws and panel adhesive to fix 2x1" rough sawn battens to the frame. I then fixed 44x 38mm rough sawn battens vertically to these grounds. all the rough sawn timber was pretty poor quality (as this stuff tends to be) and required a lot of work (with shims etc) to get the framework plumb, straight and true, constantly checking against a string line and using long straightedge and level etc, but well worth the effort. I put 3/4" ply and chipboard (salvaged from other jobs) in between vertical "studs" as required for extra stiffness and as grounds to hold heavier items. Slow work, but you get into a rhythm, hardest part was planning and setting it out, but careful planning out saves on waste.

That's clever. I might borrow that idea!

Nemanrio

Hi lads, any advice on putting appliances such as a washing machine & a tumble dryer in a steeltech? Does it matter if its a vented or condenser dryer? Would insulation be needed?

TIA. 🙂

on_the_roots

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117875368#Comment_117875368

You definitely don't need an insulated room to place washing machine or dryer.

2011

^^^My thoughts exactly. You may need a vent to allow the condensation from the dryer to escape.