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Removing a rounded bolt on egr valve?

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  • 18-06-2020 12:04am
    #1
    pudzey101
    Registered Users Posts: 3,925 ✭✭✭


    Hi cant seem to remove a bolt the connects my egr to my cooler. It;s stripped right down. Please see photo attached.
    Any help appreciated. Rest of the bolts remove without ease just can't get this one to budge.

    20200618-000031.jpg
    Tagged:


Comments

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    #2
    CJhaughey
    Registered Users Posts: 14,906 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    Corroded by heat cycles and wet weather.
    Use one of these to remove.
    TL17366-40.jpg


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    #3
    sundodger5
    Registered Users Posts: 1,145 ✭✭✭sundodger5


    As it looks accessable. Maybe a good soaking in penetrating oil and a vice grips? Or hammer on a slightly smaller socket.


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    #4
    kaahooters
    Registered Users Posts: 644 ✭✭✭kaahooters


    weld a washer and a new nut to it


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    #5
    biko
    Registered Users Posts: 81,223 ✭✭✭✭biko


    Fixed your image tags

    At least the bolt is easily accessible.


    Try these
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R5d0Bgvjmlk


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    #6
    colm_mcm
    Registered Users Posts: 73,390 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    Vice grip job


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    #7
    MetzgerMeister
    Registered Users Posts: 19,854 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    I think these situations are where this would come in very handy:

    images?q=tbn%3AANd9GcQbzh7VlZcyMh_3N31YXTbomxk3ST0nYwC_SLy3yFd3Ng1Iq0chTWZbph26PFZOK1UZL1vYxxQ&usqp=CAc


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    #8
    CJhaughey
    Registered Users Posts: 14,906 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    MetzgerMeister wrote: »
    I think these situations are where this would come in very handy:

    images?q=tbn%3AANd9GcQbzh7VlZcyMh_3N31YXTbomxk3ST0nYwC_SLy3yFd3Ng1Iq0chTWZbph26PFZOK1UZL1vYxxQ&usqp=CAc
    If a 6pt socket won't turn a rusted nut one of those things will certainly not do it.
    They are only really suitable for things like wingnuts not seized rounded nuts.


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    #9
    pudzey101
    Registered Users Posts: 3,925 ✭✭✭pudzey101


    I have a socket extraction set on the way to me . It eats into the nut with the locking teeth and removes it :)


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    #10
    CJhaughey
    Registered Users Posts: 14,906 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    If its one of the Irwin ones they can work but make sure you get it on tight.
    If they start slipping they can eat away the usable metal of the nut and you will end up having to cut a rounded stub off.
    A steady hand and a stainless disc for a 4.5" grinder would make short work of that nut in any case, there seems to be good access.


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    #11
    mikeecho
    Registered Users Posts: 5,083 ✭✭✭mikeecho


    Use a saw, make a cut, and try using a screw driver.

    It's worked for me in the past.


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    #12
    Interslice
    Registered Users Posts: 3,506 ✭✭✭Interslice


    Wire brush that down, soak it in penetrating fluid. Repeat a few times.

    Get a butane torch and heat the bejaysis out of it.

    Have a socket or spanner ready that has to be tapped on. The next size down or an imperial.

    Then try to tap it open with a hammer rather than turning it.

    Good luck!


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    #13
    pudzey101
    Registered Users Posts: 3,925 ✭✭✭pudzey101


    Interslice wrote: »
    Wire brush that down, soak it in penetrating fluid. Repeat a few times.

    Get a butane torch and heat the bejaysis out of it.

    Have a socket or spanner ready that has to be tapped on. The next size down or an imperial.

    Then try to tap it open with a hammer rather than turning it.

    Good luck!


    Will try this tomorrow .


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    #14
    pudzey101
    Registered Users Posts: 3,925 ✭✭✭pudzey101


    Here is a better photo of it . Thanks everyone so far


    Edit: what is a good penetration oil ? Wd40 etc ? That pb blaster they use in the states seems unreal :)


    20200618-124904.jpg


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    #15
    enumbers
    Registered Users Posts: 552 ✭✭✭enumbers


    really looks like it needs heat map gas may even do


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    #16
    n97 mini
    Registered Users Posts: 8,295 ✭✭✭n97 mini


    Vice grip, as said above. Some WD40 wouldn't go amiss. Take it slow. If the head is twisting but the bolt isn't moving, more WD40 and leave it a few days. Last thing you want is to snap the head off.


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    #17
    pudzey101
    Registered Users Posts: 3,925 ✭✭✭pudzey101


    n97 mini wrote: »
    Vice grip, as said above. Some WD40 wouldn't go amiss. Take it slow. If the head is twisting but the bolt isn't moving, more WD40 and leave it a few days. Last thing you want is to snap the head off.

    Thanks my brother has "gt7 oil" he swears by it I'll try that tomorrow too .


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    #18
    ARGINITE
    Registered Users Posts: 2,717 ✭✭✭ARGINITE


    I have a set of Irwin Bolt Grip Removers and they are great for things like this.
    s-l300.jpg


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    #19
    listermint
    Registered Users Posts: 33,718 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    At this stage it should have been coated three or 4 times in wd40. For the past 2 days.


    What are you waiting for on that part.


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    #20
    kona
    Registered Users Posts: 7,525 ✭✭✭kona


    Id be using penetrating oil and a impact gun. Id be taking it handy on that stud too, its looks like it could snap off handy enough.


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    #21
    MetzgerMeister
    Registered Users Posts: 19,854 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    pudzey101 wrote: »
    20200618-124904.jpg

    Is it me or is there solder/welding around that nut?


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    #22
    pudzey101
    Registered Users Posts: 3,925 ✭✭✭pudzey101


    MetzgerMeister wrote: »
    Is it me or is there solder/welding around that nut?

    I'm not sure I will wire brush it soon and check it out further. Hasn't been removed in along time that's for sure


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    #23
    sundodger5
    Registered Users Posts: 1,145 ✭✭✭sundodger5


    looking at it again. If you have access to heat e.g oxy acetylene i would heat the manifold up and take out the stud at the same time. That looks like it has a good chance of snapping off.
    Drilling out a stud in a manifold is no craic.


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    #24
    pudzey101
    Registered Users Posts: 3,925 ✭✭✭pudzey101


    sundodger5 wrote: »
    looking at it again. If you have access to heat e.g oxy acetylene i would heat the manifold up and take out the stud at the same time. That looks like it has a good chance of snapping off.
    Drilling out a stud in a manifold is no craic.

    Havnt much access to anything at the moment , does anyone think a local blacksmith would weld a nut onto it and get it off for me if all else fails ?


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    #25
    swarlb
    Registered Users Posts: 1,244 ✭✭✭swarlb


    I know this is going off topic slightly...

    But this is the type of thing that garages, be they 'the lad down the lane' or 'shiny glasshouse dealerships' have to deal with every day.... think on that the next time you see topics on the subject of 'rip off garages who couldn't even remove a simple thing like a seized bolt'....


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    #26
    TheBoyConor
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,292 ✭✭✭TheBoyConor


    don't mind waiting for days to soak it with WD 40. Just get a skinny disc grinder and cut the side off of the bastardin nut and it'll snapp right off.


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    #27
    Interslice
    Registered Users Posts: 3,506 ✭✭✭Interslice


    MetzgerMeister wrote: »
    Is it me or is there solder/welding around that nut?

    A bad case of dissimilar metal corrosion. Some metals especially when mixed with water and an electric current will 'weld' together. Alot of nuts and bolts will have coatings on them to prevent this but it get burnt off easily on exhaust manifolds.


    As an aside! I was stripping my m44 engine the other week and noticed the stainless manifold was held on with copper nuts. Near 30 years in the wild and it came off like a dream with nothing more than a 1/4 inch drive ratchet.


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    #28
    Interslice
    Registered Users Posts: 3,506 ✭✭✭Interslice


    pudzey101 wrote: »
    Havnt much access to anything at the moment , does anyone think a local blacksmith would weld a nut onto it and get it off for me if all else fails ?

    Your issue is you are trying to get the nut off. I'd say that is a stud rather than a bolt. It would be difficult to weld a big nut onto the small nut but it could be done... It looks a very tricky one.


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    #29
    Interslice
    Registered Users Posts: 3,506 ✭✭✭Interslice


    TheBoyConor wrote: »
    don't mind waiting for days to soak it with WD 40. Just get a skinny disc grinder and cut the side off of the bastardin nut and it'll snapp right off.

    I might come down to that. Looking at it again i'd say the bolt will have to be replaced anyway. It might come to - cut it off, remove the egr, heat the manifold around the bolt and it will hopefully knock out with a hammer... To save more cutting and drilling! The joys of it!


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