Staining and sealing (waterproofing) softwood

Black_Knight

Hi all.

Any tips on what products to use to stain and seal soft wood?

I heard tung oil mentioned a lot, but wondering can I stain prior to oiling?

Is there a stain/oil/seal all in one product I could use?

Also, knots! Do they need special treatment to seal?

delly

Thread moved from DIY to Woodcraft. I can practically smell the varnish already!

Graham

No experience of tung oil but have used plenty of Danish oil in the past and you can get it in a range of shades.

Black_Knight

Black_Knight wrote: »

Hi all.

Any tips on what products to use to stain and seal soft wood?

I heard tung oil mentioned a lot, but wondering can I stain prior to oiling?

Is there a stain/oil/seal all in one product I could use?

Also, knots! Do they need special treatment to seal?

What is the project, ie what are you making and rather than someone assuming it's going to be an outdoor piece etc.

In relation to knots, normally use a shellac based primer to seal them when painting bare wood, but not when varnishing, I just wipe them with some white spirits and let it dry beforehand.

Depending on what the project is, you might get away with oils or could use something like osmo which is a bit expensive.

iamtony

Black_Knight wrote: »

Hi all.

Any tips on what products to use to stain and seal soft wood?

I heard tung oil mentioned a lot, but wondering can I stain prior to oiling?

Is there a stain/oil/seal all in one product I could use?

Also, knots! Do they need special treatment to seal?

What are you using it for? Like if its for vegetable beds you would use something natural like boiled linseed oil.
You mention sealing so im guessing it's something else. Ive used woodstain or wood stain gel wiped on with a rag and let dry and then sealed with multiple coats of spray laquer lightly sanding with a high number grit sandpaperand between coats it turned out well.
So basically when staining and sealing you just have to see what works with what its usually written on the can.

Also remember that the weather will eventually ruin most finishes so if you need to refinish in the future it all needs to be removed but if you just use a stain its only a matter or power washing it and reapplying.
And no you only really need to threat knots when painting as the colour seeps through.
P. S im only an amature and some of the lads will be able to give better info on finishing, its all new to me so take their advice over mine:pac: i just seen you had no replies.

Black_Knight

It's for a counter top... indoor obviously. Would rather not varnish as I don't want a sheen finish. I've used danish oil on other woods after staining but I've read it's not the best for sealing. I read tung oil (multiple coats day after day after day) is better, but i'm just looking to get some less amateur advice.

My amateur knowledge would have me rub on a wood stain, then tung oil the counter top every day for a week. Any sense in that?

recipio

Black_Knight wrote: »

It's for a counter top... indoor obviously. Would rather not varnish as I don't want a sheen finish. I've used danish oil on other woods after staining but I've read it's not the best for sealing. I read tung oil (multiple coats day after day after day) is better, but i'm just looking to get some less amateur advice.

My amateur knowledge would have me rub on a wood stain, then tung oil the counter top every day for a week. Any sense in that?

With any finish its a question of deciding what the final 'look' will be and then work backwards. Softwood will always be softwood - you can't turn it into mahogany. Stains can be very tricky with softwood as well and should be tried on a piece of scrap first. Knots are best treated with Rustins Knotting ( which is a kind of shellac ) but only if they are 'live knots and prone to ooze resin.
If you want bomb proof finish resistant to everything then the two pack acid catalysed varnishes are great but they are a glossy finish. I have found polyurethane to be just as good and of course its available as a satin or matt finish. Invest in a good varnish brush for a far better finish. Poly will eventually change into a dark golden finish ( takes about two years ) which is nice IMHO.

Black_Knight

recipio wrote: »

With any finish its a question of deciding what the final 'look' will be and then work backwards. Softwood will always be softwood - you can't turn it into mahogany. Stains can be very tricky with softwood as well and should be tried on a piece of scrap first. Knots are best treated with Rustins Knotting ( which is a kind of shellac ) but only if they are 'live knots and prone to ooze resin.
If you want bomb proof finish resistant to everything then the two pack acid catalysed varnishes are great but they are a glossy finish. I have found polyurethane to be just as good and of course its available as a satin or matt finish. Invest in a good varnish brush for a far better finish. Poly will eventually change into a dark golden finish ( takes about two years ) which is nice IMHO.

Cheers! I've stained similar wood before to great affect, just didn't need it to be waterproof/resistant.

A stain and then Polyurethane might be more towards what I'm after, as I really don't want a gloss finish - in trying to match a wood frame mirror we have, which isn't gloss. I guess I could gloss it too, but I'd prefer a matt finish.

chillyspoon

I've used Rustins Worktop Oil without problems, food safe and gives a nice satin sheen: https://www.rustins.ltd/rustins/our-products/indoor/quick-dry-worktop-oil but as recipio has pointed out, no amount of finish layers are going to make softwood as robust as hardwood, short of burying it under 4mm+ of poured epoxy.

Black_Knight

chillyspoon wrote: »

I've used Rustins Worktop Oil without problems, food safe and gives a nice satin sheen: https://www.rustins.ltd/rustins/our-products/indoor/quick-dry-worktop-oil but as recipio has pointed out, no amount of finish layers are going to make softwood as robust as hardwood, short of burying it under 4mm+ of poured epoxy.

I think I'm ok with that. It'll add character.

I'm testing out a stain and a twice daily dose of Danish oil. I'll throw a drop of water on it at the end of the week

chillyspoon

Black_Knight wrote: »

I think I'm ok with that. It'll add character.

I'm testing out a stain and a twice daily dose of Danish oil. I'll throw a drop of water on it at the end of the week

Sounds like a solid plan; most Danish oils are really just a very thin varnish; a whole load of coats look lovely and is durable. Can you post a few photos of how it develops during the process?

Black_Knight

chillyspoon wrote: »

Sounds like a solid plan; most Danish oils are really just a very thin varnish; a whole load of coats look lovely and is durable. Can you post a few photos of how it develops during the process?

Only if I'm adequately satisfied with my progress
All depends how the test stain/oil works out.

Vizzy

:pac:

chillyspoon wrote: »

Sounds like a solid plan; most Danish oils are really just a very thin varnish; a whole load of coats look lovely and is durable. Can you post a few photos of how it develops during the process?

I make a few walking sticks and use mainly Danish oil as my "stain"
Usually apply 10 coats with a cloth, and lighty sand with about 400 grit every 4 or 5 coats.
Then finish with a couple of coats of satin varnish.

May not be suitable for a worktop, but you could cut back a bit on the number of coats of Danish oil and maybe add an extra coat or two of varnish for durability.

Black_Knight

Update for those curious.

So I stained:


Then oiled almost every day for a week with danish oil:


New countertop, new sink, new tap, new tiles (sssh, they're just stickers).




Happy with the result (need to fix up the split on the left hand side (a casualty of some fettling due to non-square walls). The bathroom itself needs a bit of an overhaul which we're not going to do for a while yet, but I broken our sink a few months back so it needed replacing. It was my first attempt at plumbing too, and so far no leaks.

€40 of timber
€220 on sink and tap
€20 on fittings
€40 on "tiles"

We'll see how it holds up to splashes.

chillyspoon

That looks like a damn good success to me!