Help - bubbles on cedar wood gate

mick23

Hi all , not sure if this is the correct forum but any help would be greatly appreciated .

My nephew repainted my wooden gate with osmo oil UV protection oil last summer . Unfortunately the wood is blistering quite badly and there are air bubbles in a lot of spots on the gate and looks unsightly .it appears there is moisture underneath the first layer where the bubbles are coming up.
I had repainted it before with the same amount oil with no hassles so I think he applied it too quick / the cedar was damp when he applied it .

Anyway , does anyone know what I will do ? Will I have to resand the gate with a planer or what's the best option ?

Thanks for the help folks

kadman

mick23 wrote: »

Hi all , not sure if this is the correct forum but any help would be greatly appreciated .

My nephew repainted my wooden gate with osmo oil UV protection oil last summer . Unfortunately the wood is blistering quite badly and there are air bubbles in a lot of spots on the gate and looks unsightly .it appears there is moisture underneath the first layer where the bubbles are coming up.
I had repainted it before with the same amount oil with no hassles so I think he applied it too quick / the cedar was damp when he applied it .

Anyway , does anyone know what I will do ? Will I have to resand the gate with a planer or what's the best option ?

Thanks for the help folks

If you apply any coating on either wood or metal that is damp or wet.

The coating will not adhere at all to these areas, and will eventually fail.

And of course you will have to reprep the surface, by sanding to a suitable

level ready for re coating, on DRY substrata.

Planers are for planing, sanders are for sanding, and you will need to sand the surface.

mick23

kadman wrote: »

If you apply any coating on either wood or metal that is damp or wet.

The coating will not adhere at all to these areas, and will eventually fail.

And of course you will have to reprep the surface, by sanding to a suitable

level ready for re coating, on DRY substrata.

Planers are for planing, sanders are for sanding, and you will need to sand the surface.

thanks for the advice. will a orbital sander do the job for this ? and how do you mean a suitable level? thanks a mill for the advice

Double Barrel

Sand or scrape off the bubbled paint and any other of the paint that is not well adhered to the surface. Orbital sander will work just fine.

LET the wood DRY OUT as much as possible before applying ANY surface finish.

Freshly cut wood has a lot of moisture in it.
Eventually, this internal moisture will evaporate by itself. Air drying timber is a very good but slow process.
Kiln drying is used to speed up the process. Some of the unfinished wood you see on the market has been kiln-dried to reduce its water moisture content (MC) to around 8%- 12% so that it won’t suffer from moisture-related defects like warping and buckling. However, many building materials may have been only dried down to about 15% - 20% moisture content.

Wood moisture content is always varying. It’s never constant. Wood – freshly cut, air dried or kiln-dried – is always interacting with environmental moisture. Therefore, just because the wood is kiln-dried doesn’t mean it has lost the ability to absorb moisture. It will continue to absorb and release moisture until it comes into balance with the surrounding air. A process known as equilibrium moisture content (EMC).

Exterior timber should be dried to 15-20% MC for it to be acceptable for paint or stain application.

Good Luck
Patience is what's needed.