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Stabilising Solution on interior wall - good / bad idea?

  • 20-05-2020 5:17pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 49


    Hi,

    I recently repaired some interior walls (joint repair - hole filling).

    I'd been told can't paint directly over fresh (dried or ~ a month) joint compound.

    When buying paint - I'd been advised to use stabilising solution - which I applied - and it has taken away any dust etc...

    HOWEVER, the areas I've covered with stabilising solution aren't taking paint very well...

    Have I done something very stupid?

    Please help :)
    David


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,090 ✭✭✭dok_golf


    filler can be overpainted when dry. I have often overpainted jointing compound within 2 hours ( provided its thoroughly dry, usually leave a couple of fan heaters running over lunch ). How many coats have you put over the patches with the stabiliser on them?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,017 ✭✭✭Four Phucs Ache


    How big were the holes?

    Me , after filling and sanding etc clean area to remove the dust etc and paint over the spots once or twice using the paint chosen.

    Once its dry it it takes the roller no probs.

    Where the holes or cracks from water damage?


  • Registered Users Posts: 49 d mc


    dok_golf wrote: »
    filler can be overpainted when dry. I have often overpainted jointing compound within 2 hours ( provided its thoroughly dry, usually leave a couple of fan heaters running over lunch ). How many coats have you put over the patches with the stabiliser on them?

    I'm on 2 coats now - and it's starting to look white, but you can still see the outline of the area that I covered with stabiliser...

    I guess i'll try add another coat & see how it looks?? Unless you can recommend something else to try? :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 49 d mc


    How big were the holes?

    Me , after filling and sanding etc clean area to remove the dust etc and paint over the spots once or twice using the paint chosen.

    Once its dry it it takes the roller no probs.

    Where the holes or cracks from water damage?

    some small - 1-2mm, other 5mm drill holes...

    and I also replaced the wall-ceiling joints with joint compound...

    ceiling joints were cracking... no damp spots in the hallway I'm working on at the min...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,090 ✭✭✭dok_golf


    Hit the patches only with another couple of coats and once the stabiliser stops flashing through, give one more entire coat. Alternatively, you could seal them ( even though the stabiliser is a sealer) with something like bloxx It or a shellac primer. these will flash as well but you spot them as above first followed by one complete course. The first method is prob the easiest and quickest and no real expense if it doesn't work. regarding the wall/ceiling joints, I presume you are talking about the angle where the top of the wall meets the ceiling? I would never use any joint compound or filler on these. Its too brittle. a decent acrylic caulk will do the trick as there is a bit of flex in it. Fleetwood do an excellent one.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 49 d mc


    dok_golf wrote: »
    Hit the patches only with another couple of coats and once the stabiliser stops flashing through, give one more entire coat. Alternatively, you could seal them ( even though the stabiliser is a sealer) with something like bloxx It or a shellac primer. these will flash as well but you spot them as above first followed by one complete course. The first method is prob the easiest and quickest and no real expense if it doesn't work. regarding the wall/ceiling joints, I presume you are talking about the angle where the top of the wall meets the ceiling? I would never use any joint compound or filler on these. Its too brittle. a decent acrylic caulk will do the trick as there is a bit of flex in it. Fleetwood do an excellent one.

    Very much appreciated. I'll try that,

    David


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