Replacing Immersion Element

xckjoo

My immersion has started tripping the RCD every time it's turned on. I live in a hard water area and it's been in place for over 5 years so I'm assuming this is probably the cause. I'm happy enough to replace the element myself, but it's not something I've ever done before so hoping for some advice before I start.

1. Do I need to drain the tank before I do anything? I'll be turning off the power but does the water need to go too?
2. What tools will I need to tackle this? Looks like I need a big ass spanner to remove the element. Don't think I own anything that would do the job.
3. Anything else I need to watch out for?

Loozer

It needs replacing almost certainly but you have to be careful alright

Easy enough to spring a leak

DublinDilbert

xckjoo wrote: »

My immersion has started tripping the RCD every time it's turned on. I live in a hard water area and it's been in place for over 5 years so I'm assuming this is probably the cause. I'm happy enough to replace the element myself, but it's not something I've ever done before so hoping for some advice before I start.

1. Do I need to drain the tank before I do anything? I'll be turning off the power but does the water need to go too?
2. What tools will I need to tackle this? Looks like I need a big ass spanner to remove the element. Don't think I own anything that would do the job.
3. Anything else I need to watch out for?

Is it located on the top or the side of the tank? I assume it's on the top. Keep the pressure on till cracking the element loose, then turn off water. With the water supply to the cylinder off, open the downstairs hot tap.

Get a pot and use a towel as a wick to catch water coming down the side as you loosen it.

If it's an insulated tank you will need a box spanner.

Some people will smear boss white on the fiber washer and threads of the new element.

Hard water area, best fit a stainless steel element if you can.

Loozer

DublinDilbert wrote: »

Is it located on the top or the side of the tank? I assume it's on the top. Keep the pressure on till cracking the element loose, then turn off water. With the water supply to the cylinder off, open the downstairs hot tap.

Get a pot and use a towel as a wick to catch water coming down the side as you loosen it.

If it's an insulated tank you will need a box spanner.

Some people will smear boss white on the fiber washer and threads of the new element.

Hard water area, best fit a stainless steel element if you can.

Doesn't boss white make the element very hard to remove after

You're right about the element everyone goes for the cheap copper heater

There's one about twice the price , it's Incaloy

Sleeper12

xckjoo wrote:

My immersion has started tripping the RCD every time it's turned on. I live in a hard water area and it's been in place for over 5 years so I'm assuming this is probably the cause. I'm happy enough to replace the element myself, but it's not something I've ever done before so hoping for some advice before I start. Do I need to drain the tank before I do anything? I'll be turning off the power but does the water need to go too? What tools will I need to tackle this? Looks like I need a big ass spanner to remove the element. Don't think I own anything that would do the job. Anything else I need to watch out for?

There is always the risk of damaging the cylinder while replacing the element. It's easy enough to catch on the coil inside the cylinder & easy enough to end up with pinholes on the collar of the cylinder. Damaged cylinder then needs replacing. Personally I think this particular job is worth the 150 euro a plumber will charge to supply & fit an element. It might save you paying 400/450 to a plumber to replace the whole cylinder.

I'm not saying don't do it but it's important you know the risks too

Loozer

Sleeper12 wrote: »

There is always the risk of damaging the cylinder while replacing the element. It's easy enough to catch on the coil inside the cylinder & easy enough to end up with pinholes on the collar of the cylinder. Damaged cylinder then needs replacing. Personally I think this particular job is worth the 150 euro a plumber will charge to supply & fit an element. It might save you paying 400/450 to a plumber to replace the whole cylinder.

I'm not saying don't do it but it's important you know the risks too

Agreed

At least pay the plumber to fit the heater

jippo nolan

Don’t mess with water or electricity!

xckjoo

Thanks for all the replies guys. Advice headed. I'll call my plumber and see if he's working. I've a few plumbing related jobs so will have to get him in at some stage. He's not the youngest though so he might not be working....

If I did try and do it myself, how easy is it to puncture the tank? Are we talking about a brush or would it need a hard bang? I can live without an immersion but I can't live without a tank.

adrian92

xckjoo wrote: »

My immersion has started tripping the RCD every time it's turned on. I live in a hard water area and it's been in place for over 5 years so I'm assuming this is probably the cause. I'm happy enough to replace the element myself, but it's not something I've ever done before so hoping for some advice before I start.

1. Do I need to drain the tank before I do anything? I'll be turning off the power but does the water need to go too?
2. What tools will I need to tackle this? Looks like I need a big ass spanner to remove the element. Don't think I own anything that would do the job.
3. Anything else I need to watch out for?

Are you sure that it is a defective element that is causing the RCD to trip?

Sleeper12

xckjoo wrote: »

Thanks for all the replies guys. Advice headed. I'll call my plumber and see if he's working. I've a few plumbing related jobs so will have to get him in at some stage. He's not the youngest though so he might not be working....

If I did try and do it myself, how easy is it to puncture the tank? Are we talking about a brush or would it need a hard bang? I can live without an immersion but I can't live without a tank.

The collar is the weakest point on the cylinder. It can be damaged even when a plumber does it but much more likely if non plumber does it. The main risk is putting uneven pressure on it as you untighten the old one & tighten the new one. These beasties can be on VERY tight. The pulling or pushing force can twist the collar. Having said that some can be easy enough. In my mind, a lot can go wrong doing it DIY compared to the small savings on the cost.

Loozer

adrian92 wrote: »

Are you sure that it is a defective element that is causing the RCD to trip?

90% it is but you would usually test it to be certain, requires a Megger.

Plumber fits the new heater

Electrician reconnects and checks it's working properly

Sleeper12

Loozer wrote: »

90% it is but you would usually test it to be certain, requires a Megger.

Plumber fits the new heater

Electrician reconnects and checks it's working properly

It's never any harm to have an electrician check out any electric appliance or how it's wired there in no legal requirement for an electrician for an element or pump in the hot press.

Loozer

Sleeper12 wrote: »

It's never any harm to have an electrician check out any electric appliance or how it's wired there in no legal requirement for an electrician for an element or pump in the hot press.

It's common enough for non electricians to reconnect them wrongly

Sleeper12

Loozer wrote: »

It's common enough for non electricians to reconnect them wrongly

These non electricians shouldn't be going anywhere near electrical work so. The vast majority a plumbers have done hundreds if not thousands of immersions & it's part of their training. However I'm always wary of plumbers that only do site work. They have an electrician following them around the site & some of these plumbers with years of experience on sites wouldn't be the best to get to wire in an immersion. Having said that they wouldn't have much experience in replacing immersions either. Installing new ones in new cylinders but not so much replacing them.


The main advantage with a separate (good) electrician is that he wont just wire it in. He will test everything back to the board. It's always a good idea to pay him a little extra, if needs be, to check out your electric shower, right back to the fuse box, if you have one.

xckjoo

Thanks again guys. My mate has a plumber he raves about so might just ask him for the name. My current guy is good and knows the system but I don't want to call him out in the current climate. He's 60+ and a smoker. He must be due to retire soon anyway (but no doubt he's still working ).



I still have to do one final absolute test to confirm it's the immersion alone, but 99% it is. I'll switch off all other appliances at the wall this evening and confirm. Replacing the element seems to be the obvious next step. I could go down the route of getting it tested, but probably not worth the outlay in cost. If the replacement one is still tripping the system then I'll get the electrician out.

Edit: Just to add, it's a gravity fed system with a simple element->switch->timer set up so not worried about complexity. I'm happy to do the wiring myself

Tuco88

The worst thing you could do is fully drain down the tank. Keep a decent mass of water in it, it will prevent the tank moving while you work on it.

The box spanner is the one to get. Don't get that spanner with the offset handle even if its free, completely useless.
I usually put a very small amout of boss white and hemp on too. If it's a nightmare to open, you might have to resort to applying heat and or a big Stilson/Adjustable spanner to get it started (You'll be better off getting a Plumber at that stage)

Best of luck.

Sleeper12

Tuco88 wrote: »

The worst thing you could do is fully drain down the tank. Keep a decent mass of water in it, it will prevent the tank moving while you work on it.

The box spanner is the one to get. Don't get that spanner with the offset handle even if its free, completely useless.
I usually put a very small amout of boss white and hemp on too. If it's a nightmare to open, you might have to resort to applying heat and or a big Stilson/Adjustable spanner to get it started (You'll be better off getting a Plumber at that stage)

Best of luck.

I Gave up this type of plumbing work a long time ago. I used to take the box spanner & stilson approach. I am told now by the younger plumbers that the spanner is the preferred approach nowadays. The stilson puts uneven pressure on the box spanner & likewise on the collar, increasing the risk of damage. I'm told that the trick with the spanner in to shock it with a few whacks of a hammer. They claim a higher success rate with spanner... That's not to say you are right or wrong. It's been a long time since I have done one & I'll probably never do one again so I'll never find out first hand

Bruthal

I always did the spanner and hammer approach. Had one cylinder failure years ago. Have not done one in a few years.

The offset spanners were some invention alright, as in they would twist or apply force more to its offset than the nut. Ye want the turning force in the same plane as the nut being loosened.

We made spanners as apprentices from 3mm steel, so it was flat. Best one by far for removing them, if you could get in at the element nut with it.

Tuco88

Sleeper12 wrote: »

I Gave up this type of plumbing work a long time ago. I used to take the box spanner & stilson approach. I am told now by the younger plumbers that the spanner is the preferred approach nowadays. The stilson puts uneven pressure on the box spanner & likewise on the collar, increasing the risk of damage. I'm told that the trick with the spanner in to shock it with a few whacks of a hammer. They claim a higher success rate with spanner... That's not to say you are right or wrong. It's been a long time since I have done one & I'll probably never do one again so I'll never find out first hand

I would only be using the stilson if I couldn't open it. The socket comes with a long rod that goes passes through the socket, 90% of the time it opens for me. I have the flat type spanner also. I still prefer the socket and rod, I find you could twist or kink the collar with a spanner while tighting. Anyway its what you find most comfortable for you.

corkgsxr

Iv replaced some amount of cylinders after electricians tryed replacing Immersions.

Secret to the box spanner and stilson approach is hold the box spanner with one hand so it's a proper turning force. Steady and increasing pressure. Don't jerk it

Bruthal

corkgsxr wrote: »

Iv replaced some amount of cylinders after electricians tryed replacing Immersions.

Those electricians, up to no good again.

Tuco88

When you are not a member of RECI, All you can do now is change the element, I think the Plumber now completes the wiring he usually has the RECI sticker on his van door anyway ��

Sleeper12

Tuco88 wrote:

When you are not a member of RECI, All you can do now is change the element, I think the Plumber now completes the wiring he usually has the RECI sticker on his van door anyway ��

RECI sticker just under the Bob The Builder sign?

adrian92

OP.
I suggest that , before assuming, that you need to change the heating element that you ask what may be dausing the RCD to trip.

There are several possibilities and am sure that others could advise before you change the element.
In essence, try to determine why the RCD is tripp8ng before changing anything

Conte..

adrian92 wrote: »

OP.
I suggest that , before assuming, that you need to change the heating element that you ask what may be dausing the RCD to trip.

There are several possibilities and am sure that others could advise before you change the element.
In essence, try to determine why the RCD is tripp8ng before changing anything

I always test the heater on a callout

If if it trips at switch on its always been a faulty heater IME anyhow