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Need Advice on Boundary Line - Wall v Post & Fence

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  • 09-05-2020 4:03pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 2,579 ✭✭✭


    Hi all

    So am clearing a 44m boundary line of trees, shrubs, and battered haphazard fencing. It’s a bit of a mess but enjoying it all the same. Side access is too narrow for digger so the clear out is by hand.

    I’m looking for any comments or insights into getting a block wall (4inch on flat) or concrete post and fence.

    I have a preference for the wall and a bit of an aversion to concrete post and fence. Whatever happens I’ll be doing most, if not all the work myself to keep costs down.

    So that means digging the trench myself, getting footings poured, and laying block.
    Or
    Digging posts holes and installing god knows how many panels and however many posts.

    I’m guess what I’m asking - what are your thoughts?

    Is the post and panelling a good balance between cost and look? I know there’s nicer panels now but they are expensive enough and presumably will still rot over years and not resistant to wind.

    Or is it always better to have a wall and worth the cost in the end?

    Thanks everyone.


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 22,007 ✭✭✭✭Esel


    I would say there would be a huge difference in cost, and *lots* more labour in building a wall.

    Not your ornery onager



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,579 ✭✭✭karlitob


    Esel wrote: »
    I would say there would be a huge difference in cost, and *lots* more labour in building a wall.

    Thanks for that.


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,195 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    I would always go with the wall..

    I don't know about the costs but the accuracy, working on your own, with concrete posts and the bottom concrete panel is a lot of pressure.
    Posts have to be plumb, square and in line, as well as be an exact distance apart.
    Give me a big bucket of mortar, a big marshal town triangular trowel
    https://www.caulfieldindustrial.com/p/marshalltown-19-11fg-11-brick-trowel-philadelphia-pattern/p-e15036?taxdispinc=y&gclid=CjwKCAjw7-P1BRA2EiwAXoPWA1UA-w65GngCOsBjMimE9jwKdx4tUyiFJHMqPQIOIWY79NTnl_8xhxoCpx8QAvD_BwE#fo_c=3215&fo_k=1bcfa1676c78530e51acae8f3b7cabd2&fo_s=gplaie
    and a load of blocks on the flat any day
    :)

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,140 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    44m
    Limited access for machines
    Concrete post and plank would be less hassle I’d imagine.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,579 ✭✭✭karlitob


    BryanF wrote: »
    44m
    Limited access for machines
    Concrete post and plank would be less hassle I’d imagine.

    I’ve no urgency with getting this job done.

    To keep costs down I’d have to dig out the trench 9m3, and figure out how to get rid of it.

    Pour the concrete foundation. And lift in the blocks on a pallet cart - however long that would take.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,579 ✭✭✭karlitob


    I would always go with the wall..

    I don't know about the costs but the accuracy, working on your own, with concrete posts and the bottom concrete panel is a lot of pressure.
    Posts have to be plumb, square and in line, as well as be an exact distance apart.
    Give me a big bucket of mortar, a big marshal town triangular trowel
    https://www.caulfieldindustrial.com/p/marshalltown-19-11fg-11-brick-trowel-philadelphia-pattern/p-e15036?taxdispinc=y&gclid=CjwKCAjw7-P1BRA2EiwAXoPWA1UA-w65GngCOsBjMimE9jwKdx4tUyiFJHMqPQIOIWY79NTnl_8xhxoCpx8QAvD_BwE#fo_c=3215&fo_k=1bcfa1676c78530e51acae8f3b7cabd2&fo_s=gplaie
    and a load of blocks on the flat any day
    :)


    Thanks for that. This is the back and forth that I’m having.

    I would’ve thought that it would be simpler to keep the posts in line rather than a wall. I’m handy but obv not a bricklayer. I’d lay 4inch on flat but I read that it’s more difficult that brick laying due to size.

    Do you think the posts would be that hard to do?


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,195 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    are you working solo?

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,579 ✭✭✭karlitob


    are you working solo?

    I am really but could pay a lad to work with me I suppose if absolutely necessary.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,579 ✭✭✭karlitob




  • Registered Users Posts: 12,195 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    I did this with steel fencing before on my own and what I did was dug out the foundations for each post, and set a length of 6" wavin in the foundations with the top at the right level.
    Then when this had set, it was much easier to focus on getting the post vertical and in line and also level with the top of the next one....etc.
    I bit slower yes but gave me much more control rather than mucking about with lots of concrete and muck in the rain.
    The 6" gave me enough leeway to be exact.

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,579 ✭✭✭karlitob


    I did this with steel fencing before on my own and what I did was dug out the foundations for each post, and set a length of 6" wavin in the foundations with the top at the right level.
    Then when this had set, it was much easier to focus on getting the post vertical and in line and also level with the top of the next one....etc.
    I bit slower yes but gave me much more control rather than mucking about with lots of concrete and muck in the rain.
    The 6" gave me enough leeway to be exact.

    Thank you. Can I check what you meant by ‘wavin’. I’m not exactly getting what you’re suggesting? Thanks for posting.


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,195 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    karlitob wrote: »
    Thank you. Can I check what you meant by ‘wavin’. I’m not exactly getting what you’re suggesting? Thanks for posting.

    Suppose the post has a diameter of 4" and need to be buried 600 mm.

    So when pouring the foundations for the posts, I set a piece of 6" or 8" wavin piping in the concrete, with the bottom end sealed off and flush with the top of the finished concrete.
    Then when it came to set the post I on ly had it to worry about.
    The alternative to the waving is a tapered piece of timber, say 5" square on the bottom and 7" on top, pained with oil or release oil and removed one the concrete had set enough.
    The wavin idea means you can do a number of them, The timber plug is reusable.
    I had free availability to wavin piping off cuts when doing the project..

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users Posts: 332 ✭✭mick121


    Posts is the way to go for you,maybe even concrete ones.You can hire a drill with a 6inch auger bit for drilling out the holes.Youd have the holes drilled out in no time.


  • Registered Users Posts: 27,040 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    Are You likely to ever want to fix something to the boundary?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,579 ✭✭✭karlitob


    mick121 wrote: »
    Posts is the way to go for you,maybe even concrete ones.You can hire a drill with a 6inch auger bit for drilling out tuhe holes.Youd have the holes drilled out in no time.

    I think you’re right. Thank you.
    Thought a 12 inc to give me 100mm for post, 100mm for concrete either side.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,579 ✭✭✭karlitob


    GreeBo wrote: »
    Are You likely to ever want to fix something to the boundary?

    I don’t think so. The only thing would be an extension - long time away before I get any money for that. I’m sure the post could be dug up then and a proper wall built. Other than that I’ll have to work around the problem.


    Thanks to everyone for their advice.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,134 ✭✭✭T-Maxx


    I would not even contemplate building a 44m wall by hand all by myself.


  • Registered Users Posts: 332 ✭✭mick121


    karlitob wrote: »
    I think you’re right. Thank you.
    Thought a 12 inc to give me 100mm for post, 100mm for concrete either side.

    Sorry that's what I ment.You would drill each hole in a few mins no problem.I mixed up concrete and filled mine but there is stuff called postcrete which is supposed to be a lot handier


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,579 ✭✭✭karlitob


    mick121 wrote: »
    Sorry that's what I ment.You would drill each hole in a few mins no problem.I mixed up concrete and filled mine but there is stuff called postcrete which is supposed to be a lot handier

    I spotted this k post At €7.50 per bag. Probably 2 bags needed per hold x 25 = €375

    Whereas a tonne of batch at €45 and 25 bags of cement at €5 for a 4:1 mix should give me enough for 5 holes = 875 for all 25.

    Not sure if my maths is right but I think I’d prefer the 4:1 and mix it myself for such a long line.

    https://www.goodwins.ie/products/K-Post-Setting-Cement-20kg.html


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,579 ✭✭✭karlitob


    T-Maxx wrote: »
    I would not even contemplate building a 44m wall by hand all by myself.

    Yeah - I eventually copped onto myself. Big ideas and lots of YouTube don’t go well together.

    Had gotten to digging trench and hauling blocks into the back, and being a labourer for a brickie to keep cost down.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 12,195 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    karlitob wrote: »
    I think you’re right. Thank you.
    Thought a 12 inc to give me 100mm for post, 100mm for concrete either side.

    These are all fine and dandy in ideal soil conditions, such as on screw tube.

    In the real world, you meet stones and rocks etc, or yellow clay or even marl.

    The posts need to be exactly spaced so the rocks will need to be dug out....

    I was looking at putting in a polytunnel which requires 900mm long 50 mm steel pipes driven 600mm into the ground at 2m centres exactly.

    The stones, if met, need to be dug out and backfilled with concrete.

    I tried a few bits of re bar: none got past 200 mm

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



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