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Budget Tablesaw Recommendations

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  • 08-05-2020 10:56am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 3,362 ✭✭✭


    Hi All,

    Just wondering what people would recommend.

    Finding the chopsaw doesn't cut square enough for me for some jobs, what to build a few more bits, bird houses and the likes.

    Have a line on a parkside one but I'm wondering am I wasting money and should I look at something a bit better. Can budget maybe 150 to 200. (which is why I say budget)

    Any recommendations?

    Thanks,
    Gary


Comments

  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,065 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    Your budget should get you a table saw,

    https://www.donedeal.ie/tools-for-sale/2800w-higher-saw-table-saw/24754973?campaign=14


    I know nothing about this make, I just searched donedeal


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,362 ✭✭✭randombar


    kadman wrote: »
    Your budget should get you a table saw,

    https://www.donedeal.ie/tools-for-sale/2800w-higher-saw-table-saw/24754973?campaign=14


    I know nothing about this make, I just searched donedeal

    Nice one, there's a few on there all right but I'm just wondering what do people recommend in terms of brand.

    i.e. if I'm only spending 150 to 200 I might as well just go for a parkside as the budget ones are all the same OR "this brand is great and they're reasonably priced"


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,065 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    True, and i tink an aldi or lidl purchase comes with a 3 year guarantee,


  • Registered Users Posts: 33,687 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    You wont get anything better than the Lidl / Aldi ones at that price point so id accept it and stick with them as per they have a guarantee etc.

    Obviously you are aware the drawbacks at this money, cut may be similar to your chop saw and power will be less than desired.

    I bought a budget Scheppach one, well i say budget it was twice the money you have to play with and the motor died within 3 months. In its favour i was putting long hardwood pieces through it (2m long) to trim them down somewhat. So it wasnt fair on the machine.

    So set expectations when buying, small repetitive cuts should be ok, but you will have to spend sometime setting it up right to make sure accurate lines are regular


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,362 ✭✭✭randombar


    listermint wrote: »
    You wont get anything better than the Lidl / Aldi ones at that price point so id accept it and stick with them as per they have a guarantee etc.

    Obviously you are aware the drawbacks at this money, cut may be similar to your chop saw and power will be less than desired.

    I bought a budget Scheppach one, well i say budget it was twice the money you have to play with and the motor died within 3 months. In its favour i was putting long hardwood pieces through it (2m long) to trim them down somewhat. So it wasnt fair on the machine.

    So set expectations when buying, small repetitive cuts should be ok, but you will have to spend sometime setting it up right to make sure accurate lines are regular

    Any advice on setting up right so? Or is it follow instructions?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 549 ✭✭✭chillyspoon


    The advice I'd give you for anyone getting their first table saw but in particular for a budget saw is to simply never use the included mitre gauge for 90 degree cuts.

    Make a standard cross cut sled as the very first thing you use it for and you'll never look back.

    YouTube is utterly loaded with crosscut sled jig videos, don't bother with the super fancy ones with t-track and built in flag stops; just go with the most basic one that has a flat board with a fence at the back and a supporting brace at the front. Something like this one is perfect:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FPYkImHs9mM

    Later on you can make more:
    - a mitre sled for perfect 45 degree cuts
    - an adjustable mitre sled for any angle and
    - a taper jig for all the mad wonky stuff (e.g. table legs).


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,213 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    Perhaps I am a bit old school here:
    Just to add to what CS has written on the above, when looking at the videos, be aware of the potential false sense of security that may be present when using the X cut sled.
    One of the golden rules when using a table saw, or a P/T, is never stand behind the piece.
    When using the X-Cut sled, which most designs require you to use both hands and be behind the piece, after the X cut is done, the blade comes out through the back fence on the sled: (most designs on U tube dispense with the blade guard ) and both of your hands are going to be beyond the saw blade.
    .
    Probably not explaining this too well, just watch a few..
    There are one or two designs which include a perspex box over the back of the fence where the blade comes through.
    It make the sled a bit longer but the blade is both visible and covered.
    Keep safe and well when working
    :)

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Posts: 7,712 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    I got my Da a decent one from Screwfix recently. It’s about the same as the Lidl/Aldi ones without getting trampled on to buy it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,862 ✭✭✭RobAMerc


    this gets good reviews

    Titan


  • Posts: 7,712 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    That’s the very one I mentioned above. Couldn’t remember the model.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 549 ✭✭✭chillyspoon


    .. after the X cut is done, the blade comes out through the back fence on the sled

    This is a fair point Calahonda - it is unfortunate that I grabbed a video that doesn't put a safety block at the back of the fence, which eliminates that issue by keeping the blade embedded inside timber after making its cut.

    But you're overlooking a couple of big safety factors that sleds bring to the table (great pun) over not using one. Remember we're talking about cross cuts here not rips.

    1) As with a sliding table bed table saw, the workpiece on a sled is stationary and is moved through the blade on a moving platform that is fixed to a linear plane of movement, this single factor MASSIVELY reduces the chance of rotation and kickback versus using a mitre gauge with the workpiece sliding on the surface of the table.

    2) The workpiece can be held against a fence on both sides of the blade, not a single side as with a mitre gauge. This also significantly reduces the chance of rotation and hence almost completely eliminates kickback. This has the side benefit of better cut quality by providing zero clearance.

    3) Most sleds are intentionally designed with a highpoint in the centre to force the user to keep their hands or clamps to the outside of the cut, I've done this with mine and it works a treat, it means that your hands simply cannot be where the blade is because they only way to push the sled requires them to be elsewhere.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,491 ✭✭✭stuchyg


    I had a einhell one from Amazon for a while, the fence was absolutely muck. if investing in a cheaper saw, see if you can replace the default fence or can build your own to fit the available slots


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,213 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    CS, can't argue with you, which was never the intention anyway:D

    I just posted it as I had visions of some beer gut being sliced up as the blade comes through:eek:
    Keep well

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,362 ✭✭✭randombar


    Hi All, always keen to know more about the safety side of it, any examples of safe use with a safe fence? I kind of understand what you are saying about the block but would be good to get a visual.


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,213 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    GaryCocs wrote: »
    Hi All, always keen to know more about the safety side of it, any examples of safe use with a safe fence? I kind of understand what you are saying about the block but would be good to get a visual.
    try this.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQINXsn2QBk
    or this
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=njsD5W6fcI0

    which is similar to what JZ has posted below

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Posts: 3,637 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]




  • Registered Users Posts: 549 ✭✭✭chillyspoon


    CS, can't argue with you, which was never the intention anyway:D

    I just posted it as I had visions of some beer gut being sliced up as the blade comes through:eek:
    Keep well

    LOL - oh jesus, I'm not sure if I'm glad that I ate my dinner before or after that imagine was put in my head :eek:


  • Registered Users Posts: 549 ✭✭✭chillyspoon


    Here's my little sled - it has served me very well so far:

    https://www.chillyspoon.com/blog/2019/1/23/table-saw-cross-cut-sled


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,366 ✭✭✭jack of all


    This is my budget crosscut sled, I just used some yellow "hi Vis" paint on the back crosspiece to remind me to keep my digits out of the way!


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,213 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    CS:
    Can you pen a few lines on how you took some of the wobble out of the Parkside drill press?
    I was using it at the weekend and IIRC you said something about going in behind the switch?
    Ho does it come off, just the one little screw

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 549 ✭✭✭chillyspoon


    CS:
    Can you pen a few lines on how you took some of the wobble out of the Parkside drill press?
    I was using it at the weekend and IIRC you said something about going in behind the switch?
    Ho does it come off, just the one little screw

    Sure thing - as it happens I saw it on YouTube so here's the exact tweak!

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tnwp-FJPvAg


  • Registered Users Posts: 557 ✭✭✭timfromtang


    GaryCocs wrote: »
    Hi All,

    Just wondering what people would recommend.

    Finding the chopsaw doesn't cut square enough for me for some jobs, what to build a few more bits, bird houses and the likes.

    Have a line on a parkside one but I'm wondering am I wasting money and should I look at something a bit better. Can budget maybe 150 to 200. (which is why I say budget)

    Any recommendations?

    Thanks,
    Gary




    Hi Gary,
    I'd recommend a shooting board and a plane, it'll true up those right angles just perfect, and loads cheaper than a tablesaw.
    tim


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