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Oak new growth dying off

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  • 06-05-2020 7:30pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 24


    Hello there.
    I've a collection of oaks both potted and planted. The planted ones range in size from about 3 meters to about a foot and the potted ones are only a few years old at most.
    The thing is, a lot of the new growth has browned off and died. The older growth seems fine and is starting to leaf. I originally thought that the soil where the planted trees are might have been a bit shallow but it's happening with the potted ones as well.
    I presume this is some kind of a disease?
    Any thoughts?


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 1,678 ✭✭✭Multipass


    More likely to be drought, it’s been unusually hot and dry for weeks. Potted and newly planted trees are especially at risk of drying out.


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 12,633 Mod ✭✭✭✭blue5000


    It's been dry, windy and cold at night too. It could be just wind burn.

    If the seat's wet, sit on yer hat, a cool head is better than a wet ar5e.



  • Registered Users Posts: 24 OwlParliament


    It could be wind burn alright. I had been watering them during the dry spell (maybe not enough).
    Excusing my ignorance, but are oaks particularly vulnerable to wind burn?


  • Registered Users Posts: 586 ✭✭✭dh1985


    For what it's worth as I am not a tree expert by any means but I had similar experiences lately. Had planted some young oak and some maple trees. They were really struggling until this week as I had only started watering them in the last week and not before this. The oaks have really come on in the week but I think they are later bloomers anyway. A couple of the.maples done well also but I have one I think may be done for as the budding leaves are dry and crispy. I will continue to water but its probably futile.


  • Registered Users Posts: 18,245 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    Any trees in pots planted should be well watered over the last few weeks. You would want to let a hose on them for 5-10 minutes each once a week. As well use grass clippings or mulch around them to help prevent them drying out.

    Slava Ukrainii



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  • Registered Users Posts: 772 ✭✭✭baaba maal


    It must have been a bit more severe in Kildare, but I had a run of about four nights of frost in the last ten days- my greenhouse max/min thermometer registered -0.2C but I lost all the new growth on oaks and ash as well as beech hedge (two pumpkin plants and eight sweetcorn as well- all growing really well!), so I suspect it was this.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,868 ✭✭✭tabby aspreme


    I have 6 acres of oak and surprisingly, an acre of Norway spruce, badly damaged by the frost last week, it has no effect on the birch and alder, all planted last year, and 7 short drills of early Spud's, I'm also in kildare


  • Registered Users Posts: 24 OwlParliament


    I fear for new growth after today/tonight. Very windy here all day. Will survey in the morning.


  • Registered Users Posts: 586 ✭✭✭dh1985


    I fear for new growth after today/tonight. Very windy here all day. Will survey in the morning.

    I actually had a recently planted maple blow over slightly yesterday. This is about 15ft tall. I repositioned it, stamped around it a little and watered it heavily. Anyone other advice on how to help this to survive as before it was doing very well and had a super leaf cover


  • Registered Users Posts: 18,245 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    dh1985 wrote: »
    I actually had a recently planted maple blow over slightly yesterday. This is about 15ft tall. I repositioned it, stamped around it a little and watered it heavily. Anyone other advice on how to help this to survive as before it was doing very well and had a super leaf cover

    Stake it but it is often hard to drive them down. It would want at least one if not two. Its a good idea not to use treated timber. The stake will rot and break in 2-4 years ideally the tree should be ok then. A piece of 3''X3'' timber. Round is probably better but hard to get untreated

    Slava Ukrainii



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  • Registered Users Posts: 561 ✭✭✭timfromtang


    Stake it but it is often hard to drive them down. It would want at least one if not two. Its a good idea not to use treated timber. The stake will rot and break in 2-4 years ideally the tree should be ok then. A piece of 3''X3'' timber. Round is probably better but hard to get untreated




    I've lots of larch suitable for tree stakes, untreated and rot resistant, sadly not round I generally cut my stakes square.
    pm me for details
    tim


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 12,633 Mod ✭✭✭✭blue5000


    I fear for new growth after today/tonight. Very windy here all day. Will survey in the morning.

    A good few leaves on the ground around here, even fresh NS tips on the ground. Ash dieback more obvious this year too, I don't know whether to cut them and burn them or just let nature take it's course.

    If the seat's wet, sit on yer hat, a cool head is better than a wet ar5e.



  • Registered Users Posts: 561 ✭✭✭timfromtang


    blue5000 wrote: »
    A good few leaves on the ground around here, even fresh NS tips on the ground. Ash dieback more obvious this year too, I don't know whether to cut them and burn them or just let nature take it's course.



    514207.jpg
    Ash Dieback terrible this year in Tang too I've attached a pic of sparse canopy in a part where I am clearing to replant. You can see a few stems that may still be quite healthy, I will be retaining these, but it looks as if this section planted in 2004 is going to be nearly a total loss.
    tim


  • Registered Users Posts: 586 ✭✭✭dh1985


    514207.jpg
    Ash Dieback terrible this year in Tang too I've attached a pic of sparse canopy in a part where I am clearing to replant. You can see a few stems that may still be quite healthy, I will be retaining these, but it looks as if this section planted in 2004 is going to be nearly a total loss.
    tim

    What's the cause of the ash dieback. I have some ash as well as over the past few years some of it does only be half covered with leaves and its progressively gotten worse. I take it there is no cure for this. Is there any other symptoms apart from lack of leaves


  • Registered Users Posts: 561 ✭✭✭timfromtang


    dh1985 wrote: »
    What's the cause of the ash dieback. I have some ash as well as over the past few years some of it does only be half covered with leaves and its progressively gotten worse. I take it there is no cure for this. Is there any other symptoms apart from lack of leaves




    The cause is a fungal organism called Hymenoscyphus fraxineus.
    for more info either pm me for my number for a chat about it or have a look at the internet for more info.
    for example https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hymenoscyphus_fraxineus


    There is also a thread on here about ash dieback well worth a read.



    all the best

    tim


  • Registered Users Posts: 257 ✭✭Accidentally


    514207.jpg
    Ash Dieback terrible this year in Tang too I've attached a pic of sparse canopy in a part where I am clearing to replant. You can see a few stems that may still be quite healthy, I will be retaining these, but it looks as if this section planted in 2004 is going to be nearly a total loss.
    tim

    I agree, it is very obvious this year, both in plantations and hedgerows. Most of mine is from 2005 and I reckon we will lose it all, although the maple is busy moving in to replace the ash. Older trees(50+) seem unaffected so far, but I'm not confident for their future.


  • Registered Users Posts: 27 Grow up


    Noat likely the frost we had last week. I have the same problem with 8 yr old oaks i have. The ash trees i have aswell took a hit but i can see new growth starting to unfurl. We had a great run of weather up until last week and the sudden change would not have helped. Going from high teen temps to grass frost is in no way ideal!


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