CAT Cabling installation advice

briaineo

Hi

I'm about to wire my house with CAT 6a cabling

Just wanted to make sure I'm on the right track:

The cable itself: Better to go with CAT 6a over the CAT 6?

CAT 6a, Shielded, LSZH, 23 Gauge Solid wire (missed anything?)


Installing:

Leave a foot extra at each end of run

Conduits needed for cable in wall chases?

One run of cable per plug ( eg. four lengths of cable in a single chase if four plugs on the wall plate/socket )

All cable to terminate a the same location (broadband entry point to house) and be wired to a patch panel

If installing an outdoor security camera to the the underside of a soffit would it be better to terminate the run inside the house and then use a short length of exterior cable to the camera?

Fit plugs on ends and use a laptop and router to test

thanks

smelly sock

briaineo wrote: »

Hi

I'm about to wire my house with CAT 6a cabling

Just wanted to make sure I'm on the right track:

The cable itself: Better to go with CAT 6a over the CAT 6?

CAT 6a, Shielded, LSZH, 23 Gauge Solid wire (missed anything?)


Installing:

Leave a foot extra at each end of run

Conduits needed for cable in wall chases?

One run of cable per plug ( eg. four lengths of cable in a single chase if four plugs on the wall plate/socket )

All cable to terminate a the same location (broadband entry point to house) and be wired to a patch panel

If installing an outdoor security camera to the the underside of a soffit would it be better to terminate the run inside the house and then use a short length of exterior cable to the camera?

Fit plugs on ends and use a laptop and router to test

thanks

Hi ive done a little bit of this recently. I actually used cat 5 E. Easier to actually manipulate and crimp imo. It eill work if one of the strands becomes loose whereas cat 6 wont.

No need for conduit in walls. I ran mine behind the skirting.

Defo use external cable for the outdoor run.

Dudda

briaineo wrote: »

Hi

I'm about to wire my house with CAT 6a cabling

Just wanted to make sure I'm on the right track:

The cable itself: Better to go with CAT 6a over the CAT 6?

CAT 6a, Shielded, LSZH, 23 Gauge Solid wire (missed anything?)


Installing:

Leave a foot extra at each end of run

Conduits needed for cable in wall chases?

One run of cable per plug ( eg. four lengths of cable in a single chase if four plugs on the wall plate/socket )

All cable to terminate a the same location (broadband entry point to house) and be wired to a patch panel

If installing an outdoor security camera to the the underside of a soffit would it be better to terminate the run inside the house and then use a short length of exterior cable to the camera?

Fit plugs on ends and use a laptop and router to test

thanks

I used Cat 6 all brought back to the utility where I haven't yet installed a small wall mounted comms cabinet and patch panel but intent to sometime. It's a bit of a mess currently I've just put plugs on the few I currently need. Mine are in stud walls so didn't need conduit but I would if it was plastered blockwork.

I got one of these cheap and found it very useful:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000318679679.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.2893183dJKU36H

I tested a POE cable last week with it and fried it so have to order a new one. Delivery will be ages but if your only starting to pull cables it should have arrived by the time your ready to test.

JoeA3

Dudda wrote: »

I used Cat 6 all brought back to the utility where I haven't yet installed a small wall mounted comms cabinet and patch panel but intent to sometime. It's a bit of a mess currently I've just put plugs on the few I currently need. Mine are in stud walls so didn't need conduit but I would if it was plastered blockwork.

I got one of these cheap and found it very useful:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000318679679.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.2893183dJKU36H

I tested a POE cable last week with it and fried it so have to order a new one. Delivery will be ages but if your only starting to pull cables it should have arrived by the time your ready to test.

That's handy. I was wondering what the best/easiest way would be to test which cable is going to which room!

brav

With regard cable spec, if you put this post in the tech forums a few will prob go with cat 7, but the reality is cat 5E is prob loads for most as it can do gigabit, esp on the runs required for a house.

However given the cost of cat 6 only being a little over, personally I would go with cat 6. If you thought there may be a point/room where say a lot of equipment you could run a cat 7 to it for future switch or something but also 2 cat 6 could be linked etc so more practical to stick with cat 6.
Cat 7 is not as easy to work with cat 5E being the easiest.

I do wonder about when you say 4 plugs in a point your going to run 4 Ethernet runs to it? At every point??!
To me that’s sounds like an overkill, yes to points say where a tv might be pr future desk on room for computer or a ceiling point for Wi-Fi point, but I would say every socket does not need an Ethernet port.
That being said I think I’ve some people even run Ethernet to every light switch

awec

briaineo wrote: »

Hi

I'm about to wire my house with CAT 6a cabling

Just wanted to make sure I'm on the right track:

The cable itself: Better to go with CAT 6a over the CAT 6?

CAT 6a, Shielded, LSZH, 23 Gauge Solid wire (missed anything?)


Installing:

Leave a foot extra at each end of run

Conduits needed for cable in wall chases?

One run of cable per plug ( eg. four lengths of cable in a single chase if four plugs on the wall plate/socket )

All cable to terminate a the same location (broadband entry point to house) and be wired to a patch panel

If installing an outdoor security camera to the the underside of a soffit would it be better to terminate the run inside the house and then use a short length of exterior cable to the camera?

Fit plugs on ends and use a laptop and router to test

thanks

Get a tester.

Cat6 and better is a bollocks to crimp. Leave plenty of extra cable length and buy extra connectors as you'll probably end up doing it many times before you get it right.

You should terminate all the cables somewhere you can access conveniently, but that's still hidden out of the way, and where power is available.

If you're going to put 4 cables to each room you're going to need a decent switch and it's going to be quite bulky.

Count Mondego

Cat6a is exactly what you want, Cat7 isn't a ratified standard. It is more difficult to work with but it's manageable. Run the cables in conduit and put a cap of expanding foam at the top of the conduit for air tightness.

Run them to somewhere with plenty of access, like the attic. Too many people just run them into the utility and there left hanging in a corner.

Only put one into each bedroom, a few in ceilings for APs and maybe two for each TV. Get one ran to each external corner of the house for IP camera or wireless internet.

Also have a duct from the telecoms box that's beside the esb box going back to this location. Make sure you use the Cat6a as it will do you for the next 50 years.

n97 mini

Cat 6a just allows longer runs. Unless you're wiring a castle it's not necessary. Cat 6 is possibly also unnecessary. I've run Cat 5e from all over the house to the attic. I didn't bother with a patch panel, it's just more work and expense. Instead all the cables are terminated neatly (i.e. have plugs fitted) at the 24-port gigabit switch. I have around 30 cables run, but in reality we only use around 12.

All rooms have at least two cables dropped down the wall, but in some cases there is just a single socket on the face plate; the second cable is behind the face plate so I can upgrade if necessary. The room that's used as the office has 4 sockets, as does the living room (smart TV, satellite box, Xbox).

Oh, I also ran two cables from the attic to the shed

awec

Also didn't bother with a patch panel, don't think there's much need for one in a normal house. The neatness thing doesn't really apply if you're not using a rack, and while it's beneficial to not have to crimp the cables that are in the walls, in reality you'll plug these cables into a switch and never unplug them again (and therefore, the risk of having to replace a cable due to excessive handling is miniscule).

Mine all go to the attic. Got the electricians to put a few sockets up there and have an unmanaged switch.

Have Cat6 going from beside the Virgin entry point to the attic, and a cat6 from outside the house at the telecoms conduit to the attic, and then cat5e from the attic to all the other rooms.

Count Mondego

n97 mini wrote: »

Cat 6a just allows longer runs.

No offense but sounds like you know nothing about data cabling.

n97 mini

Count Mondego wrote: »

No offense but sounds like you know nothing about data cabling.

I have no experience of Cat 6a. But from reading the specs its main purpose over Cat 6 seems to be longer runs for 10 gigabit ethernet.

Count Mondego

n97 mini wrote: »

I have no experience of Cat 6a. But from reading the specs its main purpose over Cat 6 seems to be longer runs for 10 gigabit ethernet.

I'd be more concerned about future AV signals over data cabling that wouldn't be supported by cat5e or 6. The shielding and pair twists per metre ensure the integrity of the signal across Cat6a. For the sake of a few quid it's well worth it.

_Puma_

My Experience, doing myself.

House
New build, studded walls, bungalow with attic access

Material
2xcat 6 cable rolls
Ties
Back boxes
Network socket plates
Crystals
Crimping tools
Cable tester
Switches

"The first fix"
Cat6 2 runs to every access point required
Remember access points for cameras & wifi mesh
Access point in attic for broadband utility router
All terminate in an office
Started Back boxes, runs after electrician First fix
Runs up via attic away from electrician power cables where possible (Perpindicular when crossing).. Tied to joisting and in a single channel along length of house, leave slack at both ends before tying.

"the second fix"
Crimping office end with crystals
Crimping Access point end with network face plates (no box required with back box really)
Switch installed in wall cabinet in office, no patch required.
Cable tester after each termination. 1/26 was bad for me which is not bad I think

Roughly €300-400 with lots of cable to spare

reklamos

Just go with CAT6a, at least when time comes you can be sure that it will run 10GBit.
The price difference between them is very small.

n97 mini

Count Mondego wrote: »

I'd be more concerned about future AV signals over data cabling that wouldn't be supported by cat5e or 6. The shielding and pair twists per metre ensure the integrity of the signal across Cat6a. For the sake of a few quid it's well worth it.

reklamos wrote: »

Just go with CAT6a, at least when time comes you can be sure that it will run 10GBit.
The price difference between them is very small.

Cat 6 will run 10 gig no problem, just not to 100 metres.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1gOCdm1mJJM

Even in a 10-12,000 sq ft home this guy installs Cat 6.

Count Mondego

n97 mini wrote: »

Even in a 10-12,000 sq ft home this guy installs Cat 6.

Of course he does, because it's easier to install and he doesn't give a fcuk as it's not his house.

You're building your own home which you hope will last 60 - 100 years, at least that's the way I looked at it. What cabling will have a better chance of being useful in 30 years time? Thirty years ago Cat3 and cat5 was going into places.

On his point about terminations having to be perfect, that's true, but you can always redo termination or replace a panel without replacing the cable that's chased in the wall.

reklamos

n97 mini wrote: »

Cat 6 will run 10 gig no problem, just not to 100 metres.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1gOCdm1mJJM

Even in a 10-12,000 sq ft home this guy installs Cat 6.

This all depends on the equipment being used. Some explicitly state that you need CAT6a for 10Gbit. even at short distances. Getting things connected at 10Gbit does not mean that those speeds can be sustained. The stated cable distances can mostly be achieved in ideal scenarios and that is not going to be in the house. For the sake of few quid just go with CAT6a.

smelly sock

Count Mondego wrote: »

No offense but sounds like you know nothing about data cabling.

Its not needed in a domestic setting. 5E is perfect.

n97 mini

reklamos wrote: »

This all depends on the equipment being used. Some explicitly state that you need CAT6a for 10Gbit.

What domestic equipment requires Cat 6a?

reklamos

n97 mini wrote: »

What domestic equipment requires Cat 6a?

That depends what you use it for. It is not what you need now but what you may/will need in the near future. We already have 1Gbit fiber internet connectivity coming to our homes. Why not invest a little bit more now and have buffer for 10-20years, unless you think it will be cheaper to rip the walls and run new cables again later. Look at the amount of devices needing network connectivity now. This will only grow with time. Yes, we can say that they will have wireless option but wireless will never be as reliable as cable.

lomb

Whether cat 5e or 6 do use legitimate cable there's alot of knock offs and do use solid core not cca copper clad aluminium. I personally would use shielded to.
Cat 5e solid is fine and can do gigabit and Poe. Nothing is needed beyond that now or ever. We are talking 100mb per second so way beyond anything outside a Google data center or Bitcoin production etc.
Truth be told wireless has exceeded wired. 4g for example is incredibly better than adsl even on latency and especially on upload which in itself is a legacy product now that 5g will blow 4g away and all this is transmitting from 1-10miles!
Wireless domestic stanrds will follow eg 2.4g, 5ghz etc
Wired still gives a more reliable and cheaper connection once it's in though.

reklamos

lomb wrote: »

Nothing is needed beyond that now or ever.

This is a bold statement that will not age well.
100MB/s is nothing these days when HDDs are exceeding these speeds and I'm not looking at SSDs. Even microSD cards are close to 100MB/s speeds now. Just copying/backing up things from one side of the cable to another will saturate the link. Standard games are now 50GB in size. We have phones that can capture above 100MP photos and 8K videos. This is a lot of data, it will only go up and I can tell you that 100MB/s is not going to cut it.

There are already home routers on the market that have port aggregation just to cope with need for speed. New cards and switches started appearing with 2.5Gbit support for home use also.

briaineo

Thanks for all the advice was very helpful.

Gonna go with the cat a and had missed the WiFi mesh completely! I purchased the tester and a crimping tool on AliExpress and going to change the location of patch panel to the loft/attic ( a space easily accessible from the first floor that will have power and is in the centre of house)

Will run cables to each of the corners for security cameras

Gonna run two cables to each bedroom, one for laptop the other for tv along with the WiFi mesh in ceiling.

Will run 4 cables to the two main tv points

Thanks